Can anyone tell what type is this anchor?

Can anyone tell what type is this anchor? It is somewhat similar to stockless or D'Hone, but not quite the model I usually see. These pictures are all I got of it ... it's nothing "critical", but I'm interested still.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=anc...75DOLm0QGuzqXQAg&ved=0CD8QsAQ&biw=853&bih=564

http://www.practicalboating.com/howtoguides/anchors/

From what I could find it looks like a Pool anchor.

 

I think that's what you call one of those home-made anchors...?

Where does the pictured boat sail, do you know?

-Tom

 

Please identify the boat, and then I will be able to avoid anchoring near it, lest it drags its anchor, as, when compared to the heft of the "bowsprit", it seems to be very light and ineffectual.......

 

Actually, I googled a bit before asking, came upon one of those pictures as well. Can't really say this model reminded me of any from the pictures.

 

Meditteranean mostly, ...

 

It looks like a modified Pool or Navy Stockless anchor.

 

It looks a lot like the Forfjord anchors that are on the bows of most fishing boats in SE Alaska. Looks a bit like the Dreadnaught anchor too...second picture. The original posters anchor looks like it would need to have both flukes buried to have much holding power and then the holding power would still be in question. Just my opinion.

 

That anchor looks like it's intended for rocky bottoms, which is might work well in. Sand and grass not so much, but in mud, the points would have to have some bury, at least enough to get the "meat" of the blades under a bit. For about a half a century now, folks have been fooling around with anchor shapes, trying to avoid the primary thing that works best - weight. Light weight anchors have their place, as do specially shaped anchors, but frankly it's weight that gets the job done, regardless of bottom type. Yep, big heavy, stout anchors eat up precious accommodations volume and need to be balanced with gear aft, but they work better then anything else and the shape really isn't as important if it's heavy enough.

 

The nesting roller that the boatbuilder used is very well thought out. nice instalation. I googled and couldnt identify the manufacturer of the anchor.

Be careful with that SS anchor swivel. When installed with the swivel fork pinned to the anchor, rather than hung on a ring , the swivel cant actuculate as the boat tacks back and forth in a Bora. If you have to break the anchor out of a rock ledge with engine horsepower you might break the swivel.. The technical specs on the swivel state that you lose 50 percent of its working load capacity when the swivel fork is pinned to the anchor

 

PAR, I seem to be on a disagreement streak with you, very unusual and unfortunate.

I would agree with you however on one account, that is, a heavy anchor works best. Where I disagree is how heavy it must be. It would only be reasonable on a deep sea freighter which could accommodate such a mass. I think a good compromise is an appropriate design for the sea bed encountered. And then choosing one of "adequate" weight. I think the tendency is to go too light and this proves less effective.

Here's a compromise idea for you. Appropriate design for sea floor combined with adequate chain, catenary and nylon. 7:1 scope minimum.

Here we go on another ground tackle debate.

What kind of anchor was that....?

-Tom

 

I think the people who make alm. Spade and fortress anchors and the testers at practical sailor would have something to say about the ability of a light anchors to do their job. some of the best holding and setting tests where recorded on multiple comparisson testing over a period of several years by well designed and built lite anchors. In the weight range that recreational boats use weight is not the major factor and when the larger size of same anchor does better it might not eaven be due all to weight but to area size of what is doing the bitting. Also the angle of rade to shanke is critical there scope and amt. of chain come in to play not nec. the wt of the anchor.

 

PAR,
Weight helps get an anchor set but after that weight has little to do w holding power. I have an anchor that out performed all others in an anchor test. It weighed 13 lbs and was tested w 30 lb anchors. It held best so I bought one and found it would only set in soft bottoms. The old style anchors I posted pics of are NEVER employed in light weights. Because they are so inefficient larger anchors are always required to hold the boat. I did however, stay securely anchored w that 13 lb anchor in a 50 knot gale that lasted one and a half days with my 30' 8 ton boat. And on a bottom that I easily set a steel Danforth on I could'nt get my Forfjord anchor to set even though it was of adequate weight and almost twice the weight of the Danforth.
I think design is mostly what makes anchors work well.
Easy Rider

 

Design, bottom material and adequate scope. If you don't have any of those then huge weight will fix everything, but it has to be REALLY heavy.

Have you ever tried dragging a Danforth behind a four-wheel drive on the beach. It's pretty darn impressive and helps the uneducated get a grasp on what adequate scope can do. It buries in no time but can take forever to dig out!

-Tom

 

Yes a lite Danforth has great holding power once set. Where it falls short is setting and resetting. The spade ronca and manson plow type even in lite alm(spade ) set well in many bottoms and will reset fast on a 180 degree turn relative to almost all other anchors. While they do not have the ultimate holding power of a well set Danforth or fortress they come close enough.