Toe rail curvature

To geta nice curve in something like a toe rail in Rosawa (similar to teak) do you need to steam it? Or would the gradual curve be able to be done cold. 34'LOA X 10'Bm
I am planning on glassing stanchion sockets into the deck to hull joint thru the
toe rail.
I guess stanchions would have to be inserted with vaseline or they could become a problem as its a water trap. Deck and hull are epoxy and internal tabbing
would be done last to elliminate any potential leaks.

Constructive critique welcome. Downside?

 

The method you're using is elegant looking but if I were you I would never stick a stainless pipe into a hole. The stainless could suffer from crevice corrosion and that's not good where safety's concerned. Nor should the toe rail be sectionally weaker (due to drilling 1" holes) where the holes are located.
The preferred method is to tig weld a plate to the pipe base, which is thicker than the pipe wall, say 3/16" plate with four screw holes and 3/32" wall pipe.
The only thing going through the flange would then be machine screws (round head 1/4-20 stainless) which are backed inside with a plate similar to the stanchion base plate or at least with big washers.
The toe rail offers a way to further strengthen the stanchions. The toe rail can pass outboard of the stanchions and the stanchion base plates could be bent and rest against the inner bevelled face of the toe rail. Then you could have two machine screws through the base plate into the cabin and two wood screws into the toe rail on the bent part.
Just thoroughly soaking wood allows easier bending. Straight grain is key to a long-lasting job. Any cross-grain will fail sooner or later.

Alan

 

Yup, I hear you. How you have suggested is pretty much how they were before the rebuild. I was trying for a minimalist look and still maintain strength and watertightness.

You also can't remove the toerail as the fastener heads are buried. (dumb)

WRT crevice corosion, I could make the sockets out of Kevlar/carbon and just replace the staunchions as required.Expensive pain in the *** tho'.

 

Best to have the whole stanchion in view. Bolts are easily bedded in polysulfide or polyurethane, which also forms a gasket under the bases if you semi tighten, allow to cure, and completely tighten after, which compresses the cured sealant in the final tightening.

 

Roly, back to the timber, the toe rail generally is bent to fit the base section, but sometimes it needs to be cut with a bend too, the finished work often requires both bending and cutting to fit. The end result no one would know any diffference. If you use quarter sawn wood, the bends are going the right way for the wood.

 

LL,
So, the close grain lines show on top of the toerail.......... or on the side? My guess, on top. I haven't done any wood bending. I guess you want to bend the wood in its grain weakest configuration? I quarter sawed my strip planking with the edge grain on the broad face but that doesn't really stack up for bending so my guess must be wrong.

 

Grain lines on top.

Alan

 

Thanks alan.

 

Thanks guys.

 

Roly, I reckon Alans given some sweet advice there, all I can add is to leave the rail 5/8-3/4"(think about line sizes- you dont want them jambing under- vary to suit) off the deck so its drains & dosn't trap water anywhere, you'll need some intermediate brackets too though, also when fitting deck gear etc do a small countersink on your fastening holes so you trap a nice little extra "grommet" of sika around the fastening. All the best from Jeff.

 

waikikin,

Mate, Sika around a screw hole, this is a nice wooden cap, we use plugs, also made of wood, to seal screw holes!

 

We have tapered plug cutters. But I guess you have to drill the plug
out if you want to change anything. Also will seal the end grain with epoxy,
sika it with a grommet and wax the allen slot.

Question: Steam, cramp and set and then profile or profile b4 steam?

Its not that I don't recognise the heritage & evolvement of BB, and your wisdom, but I
still like the idea of sockets. Maybe without the base under the tabbing so they can be replaced? I just don't have the experience to realize its a ******
idea.
I can have a couple of breaks in the rail for scuppers. I dont like
crevices for stuff to get stuck in. (Except for the sockets )

 

Lubber, I like a straw hat rather than a wooden cap, gives me shade & lets the breeze cool my balding melon. All the best from Jeff

 

Hey, you have gone troppo mate, good luck to ya!

Have a beer on me!