Building The Model: Ace >-------> Arrow

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Outlaw45, Dec 4, 2012.

  1. Outlaw45
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    Location: Olympia,WA

    Outlaw45 Senior Member

    got the bottom all on and one side. will try an get the other side on monday an will take some pic's an hopefully post before we leave Fri. lookin good so far. thanks all for lookin.

    Outlaw
     
  2. Outlaw45
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    Location: Olympia,WA

    Outlaw45 Senior Member

    well I didn't get anything done on the model and am leaving for Id. tommorow and will be gone for a few weeks. so, as soon as I return I will get this finished and post pic's. hopefully when I get back it will be warmer. thanks for lookin.
    Outlaw
     
  3. boatmanpaul
    Joined: Mar 2013
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    Location: Mt. Laurel, New Jersey

    boatmanpaul New Member

    Just wondering how things are going with your model? I'm wondering how you intend to plank the aft portion of the bottom? As you're aware, the Ace has Jackson's anti trip chines, which have an additional chine log that runs into the chines forward. Since you are building a model of a composite design of 2 boats, l am wondering if you are going to use the Ace bottom design, or something different?
    Keep up the good work and let us know what's happening.
     
  4. Outlaw45
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    Location: Olympia,WA

    Outlaw45 Senior Member

    Paul, sorry for the late reply. I am on a trip right now. the model is in painting and will finish when I get back home in about 2 weeks. the trip chines I planked last. I think that was a big mistake. when building the real boat I think I would put them on after the bottom then the sides last. I am using all of the Ace design except the bow. the bow planking goes on the same way just a different shape. I have less volume in the bow which I think is ok as it will hardly be in the water except in larger waves. the boat will be riding mostly on the stern in which all of the flat surface needs to be very flat. that is a must for this boat.
    if you are anyone is interested in building this boat I would not build the 12' as it pourpose (sp) too much. I would either built to the Sandeace's 13' or too my 14'. the 13 does the same thing as the 12 but not as much. the 14 if you get the balance right is suppose to not do that. my old 14 never did.
    also if you stay with the lighter motors, under 200lbs you can sit in the back cockpit which means 50 hp and under. if you go higher then that you need to steer in the front cockpit. I don't think I would go more then 75hp with this boat. I will stay with a 40 to 60hp and always sit in the front cockpit to keep it all in balance.
    well that is all I got for now. ok, back to my trip. take care and stay safe and have fun.

    Outlaw
     
  5. boatmanpaul
    Joined: Mar 2013
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    Location: Mt. Laurel, New Jersey

    boatmanpaul New Member

    Outlaw,
    Why do you think that the 12' ACEwill porpoise? I don't know that a few added inches (or even 2 feet) to the bow, which as you say isn't in the water at high speeds, will do anything to prevent this? If it's just the weight of the longer bow, wouldn't adding some weight to the bow do the same thing?
    Just some questions.
     
  6. Outlaw45
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    Location: Olympia,WA

    Outlaw45 Senior Member

    paul, I have never been in a 12; am I am just saying what the guys in the know who have been around the Ace's for a long time are saying. that was probably one of the reasons the Sande's decided to go to the 13' as they built some of the 12's then started to build the 13's. even the 13's will porpoise some and one of the guys I know set's his motor up one more notch to get it to ride a little flatter but loses some speed. I really think it's how you set the boat up and the guy's who run em are not worried about it.
    I have not seen one with a jack plate and have never heard of anyone doing different props other then stock. I wouldn't add any weight to any bow unless ya like to plow water. lol.
    I have designed my 14' Ace ---Arrow with the bottom extending back from the transom 4 1/2" so it is even with the top of the transom. it will also have a JP on it extending about 5" back with a holeshot plate. hopfully that will help with the porpoiseing with out loseing speed. of course this will all have to depend on how much motor I got.
    I don't know a whole lot about boat, tho I grew up with small runabouts, but all I have read about the big bad boys over at scream an fly all this should work.
    ok, back to my road trip. thanks for your interest in the Ace---Arrow project.

    Outlaw
     
  7. boatmanpaul
    Joined: Mar 2013
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    Location: Mt. Laurel, New Jersey

    boatmanpaul New Member

    What ever happened with your build? Just wondering if you finished your model and if you intend to build one full size?
     
  8. Outlaw45
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    Location: Olympia,WA

    Outlaw45 Senior Member

    Paul, am taking a break. have been doing a lot of fishing. I was flying fishing rivers for steelhead and springers. that slowed down so now I am fly fishing on Puget sound for pinkies(humpie salmon) they only come in every 2 yrs. the run is just starting to get hot. will be at it till Sept then back on the rivers for the fall and winter runs.
    I have to finish my 14' proto kayak and then I will build a 13' stern paddler that I design for lakes. it will be pedal power. what a hoot. then I have to build 2 16' kayaks. it doesn't end. I am also extending my shop from a 14x10 to 20x10 for more room. anyways I am being busy on a break. lol. maybe will get to the real thing soon but money is short to do everything. thanks for posting and having an interest in the Ace.
    Outlaw
     
  9. Outlaw45
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    Location: Olympia,WA

    Outlaw45 Senior Member

    well I have been very busy but I have finished the model. don't know how to post here but you can go to my yahoo group and see the boat. there are 15 pic. so it may be a little slow
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AceBoatgroup
    thanks for lookin
    Outlaw
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2014
  10. Outlaw45
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    Location: Olympia,WA

    Outlaw45 Senior Member

    I just uploaded 15 pic's of the build. they should be in the gallery under Ace-Arrow14'. they are waiting approval and they are in my album. enjoy.
    Outlaw
     
  11. Outlaw45
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    Location: Olympia,WA

    Outlaw45 Senior Member

    does anyone know how to convert weight to scale. my model is 1 1/2" to 1'. I need to see how the balance will be for this. thanks
    Outlaw
     
  12. messabout
    Joined: Jan 2006
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    Location: Lakeland Fl USA

    messabout Senior Member

    Your model at 1.5/12 is a one eighth scale model. Conversion for displacement is simple enough. Take the cube of the scale which is eight cubed. eight cubed is 512. divide the presumed weight of the full sized boat by the cube of scale. Suppose that your best estimate of the full sized ace all ready to go including driver is........375 pounds. Now divide 375 by 512 to get 0.713 pounds, or 11.7 ounces. Sorry about that you built the model too small because it will be difficult to get the operating model as light as that.

    A much better model for a small boat like Ace is at 3 inch to the foot or one quarter scale. In that case the scale factor is four and the cube is 64. SO, 375/64 = 5.86 pounds. Your working model will not likely weigh that much so you use trimming weights to bring it up to scale weight. You then have the advantage of putting the weight where they cause the boat to work best. ..................I hope this helps.
     

  13. Outlaw45
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    Location: Olympia,WA

    Outlaw45 Senior Member

    thanks for that. yes it does help. now I can see what happens where weight will go or at least as close as can be. just the boat it sits on it's line so we will see. again thanks.
    Outlaw
     
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