Building the houseboat

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by dskira, Apr 27, 2010.

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  1. hoytedow
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    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

    Phillips head screws look better and are easier to drive than slotted, at least as far as I am concerned.
     
  2. wardd
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    wardd Senior Member

    the square socket screws are the easiest to drive and remove
     
  3. hoytedow
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    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

    I don't disagree but lack experience with this type. I have had good results with Torx, however.
     
  4. wardd
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    wardd Senior Member

    next time use the square socketed screws you wont be disapointed
     
  5. wardd
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    wardd Senior Member

    walmart, made in china
     
  6. ancient kayaker
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    ancient kayaker aka Terry Haines

    I think it may be one of those "only in Canada? Pity!" things, like decent tea. You can hardly move for them up here. Some people blame old man Robertson, some blame Henry Ford for the problems getting them in US ...

    The Robertson (square) head isn't the best but it's close. Torx and Allen (hex) will beat it, haven't seen either in a wood screw though. The Robertson has a suboptimal fit to allow the driver to be a bit off axis, but it was still good enough to be specified on several WW II aircraft. A nice feature is, the screw will stay on the driver, doesn't have to be magnetic.

    It is annoying that some sizes of concrete screws come in only Phillips instead of Robertson - I wreck about 50% of those. Of course they may be Frearson or Pozidriv or some other member of the Phillips clan; that is the most irritating thing about Phillips - I am never quite sure I have the right driver for the job.
     
  7. wardd
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    wardd Senior Member

    i can buy them at lowes and maybe homedepot
     
  8. ancient kayaker
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    ancient kayaker aka Terry Haines

    - good to know Honda's aren't the only things from Canada sold in the US ...:)
     
  9. hoytedow
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    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

    I bought Canadian ammo in Kenucky, once.
     
  10. hoytedow
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    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

    Good night, all.
     
  11. dskira

    dskira Previous Member

    Thank you Richard, I will be careful. I will be ready to coat by Thursday as they forecast 48F. and sunshine. I hope they are accurate.
    About the screw. Good screw double hot dip galvanised comes only in Phillips or dual drive, Phillips/square.
    NO and NO and NO I don't hammer the screws, :p I drove them home with an electric screwdriver all along. They are #8 by 2 1/2" in length, and in the pine I don't need a pilot hole, they go straight, like they should go. I position the screw against the wood between my thumb and the index, and turn slowly the drill, and hop we go!
    First I dip them in tallow (home made).
    I drove two packs of 760 units, but a lot has to be discharge because to much molten zing fill up to the Phillips slots
    About the time for each plank it is the following reason: After applying the neoprene on the groove the position of the tongue due to the bluff bow do not want to mate nicely. It take a lot of time to convince the plank to come along and the tongue coming all the way to the groove. Then the neoprene has to escape from the bottom, so you have to bring them slowly with the long clamps together, letting the neoprene going both way of the tongue. The clamps have a formidable power. Then the planks are fastened by three screws at each frames.
    As I said it take 1 hour and half to two hours per side plank. It is like working on slow motion.
    For the moment, it will be sending, like today, with a sunny three hours, and more Wednesday.
    Coal epoxy on Thursday. It is time to protect the planking from the elements.
    Daniel
     
  12. wardd
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    wardd Senior Member

    no pilot hole means the thread is not even all around the screw as the wood tends to split along the grain
     
  13. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    No, not really

    "feel" the material and nothing gets split.

    Leave this expert do his boat as he is familiar with the stuff. Be sure it will come out better than the "calculated" ones.

    Richard
     
  14. troy2000
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    troy2000 Senior Member

    Depends on what screws you're driving, and what wood you're driving them into. With a particular size and thread of screw some woods will split; others will compress.

    I would imagine Daniel has driven enough screws to have a feel for it. I'd trust him to do my boat....
     

  15. Boston

    Boston Previous Member

    Dskira I hope you will pardon a slightly off topic question. How much has all this "soup" cost you and how would that compare to cold molding with plastic staples over an appropriately reduced frame. I know its a bit modern of a construction method going up against a more ancient one but there does seem to be a lot of "goo" going into your craft.

    which by the way is an inspiration to back yard builders everywhere

    makes me just itch to get started on something

    cheers
    B

    I'm going to guess that epoxy for that size hull would have run you about 2k with a similar cost in materials although you might have been resawing a bit.

    I'm primarily interested in the cost of just the soup, goo, and stickm of whatever variety VS the cost of Epoxy

    cheers
    and got any more pictures of the bottom once sanded
     
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