Building plans for 26'-28' ocean-cruising STEEL sailboat?

the adams 28 footer - I cant get their web site to function anymore

their web site seems to be down (there seems to be another site called adam yacht sales with a limited selection of adams designs) but they can be contacted at the address above

they do sell a book for about 30 dollars australian and it is in there

28 footer - adams 28 in steel or ply - chine or round bilge

'Similar' to the roberto barross 28 but with less beam I believe.

 

yup... small steel boat using origami method and u get a nice dingy... I still prefer bigger boat...

 

HI there

Im trying to get plans for a steel yacht for my trip to all the cold places in the world, and have had to design my own based on what i have seen on different sites. one thought is there are enough people on this site that seem to have alot of knowledge on boats, so why not put our heads together and we all draft up something. Id be keen to share my ideas, just a thought.

Wayne

 

Mark, I've finally attempted to navigate that Dutch National Botenbank site.
Like most americans, my foreign language skills are poor, but I think I figured out that "midzwaard" means centerboard.

There was only one listed: Vanquard Type 1
This is an 8.4 meter with centerboard.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find any link to the builder or designer.
And like you said, chance of finding and buying building plans is slight.

 

midzwaard, koopmans

Hoi,

Midzwaard = centerboard, your dutch is fine.

The Vanguard (not Vanquard) was designed by Koopmans i know different sizes exist with and without a centerboard. The design is not listed on his website but the plans must be in one of his drawers somewhere.

http://www.dickkoopmans.nl

He sailed three of his designs (steel and alu) to different places around the world (do not hesitate to contact him in English) and works for www.hutting.nl, www.victoire.nl and many custom yacht projects.

 

sorry

Sorry,

Only the 9.5m Vanguard was drawn by Koopmans, the other sizes are by Eckert, not a well known architect. Anyways, i'm sure Koopmans will have something sensible to say and so will Martin Bredebeke http://www.martin-bekebrede.nl/design_detail.php?ID=62 The Danish Rose also has a midzwaard.

My guess is both have found out by now that 28ft is just a bit to small for a steel sailboat 30ft is sort of a minimum 32 will be better.

 

MCM

Contact them and buy it!

Seems to be what you are looking for, I think the price is good, see how much it would be to ship it over and then do what you want with it. If you are more interested in the building project do as Seaspark suggests and contact koopmans for plans.

 

Kim has a stretched version of my 26 footer in Nanaimo.
Twin keels have the same stability as a single keeler of the same draft. I just sailed my 31 ft twin keeler from BC to Tonga and back twice, making the return trip 4,000 miles to windward , coming home from Hawaii in 23 days both times. I don't think you would do much better in a heavily loaded 31 footer no matter how many keels you had or didn't have. After 24 years of cruising in her, I'd never go back to a single keel. Twin keels have the advantage over centre board of having no moving parts to jam.
One of my 26 footers took a leisurely cruise from BC to Australia. Another did a single season trip thru the NW passage from west to east.
They are also the easiest and simplest boats to build ,by a wide margin.
Brent

 

Brent, thanks very much for your reply.

I like your approach and everyone speaks highly of your boats, and I read about that rare north/west passage on one of your (if i remember) 26 footers.

Brent, do you use the shallow draft of your twin-keels to gunk-hole, and, if so, are those twin-keels easy to get stuck, and are they hard to get un-stuck?

In your opinion, is recovery from 180 degree knock-down as certain with twin-keels as it would be with a deeper fin-keel, only a bit slower?

 

I spend a great deal of the year in drying out anchorages , walking ashore at low tide ,where the option of a deep anchorage is unavailable or not so good. I gunkhole year round. I only once got stuck waiting for a higher tide, then had to ram my way thru 1/4 mile of five inch ice when the tide became high enough again. Since then (22 years ago) being more carefull about max tides ,has kept me out of trouble.
While I don't quite have the qickness of recovery from a 180 degree knockdown of a deeper boat, I couldn't get the model of my boat to stay upside down. The buoyancy in my wheelhouse is the equivalent to adding 3,000 lbs to my keels, so I have no worries about ultimate stability. I did some self righting experiments with a model, with and without a wheelhouse, and the difference in ultimate stability was huge.
A beachball will be totally self righting with a tiny ballast ratio, whereas a raft will not be all that self righting with a 70% ballast ratio. Thus the more a boat's midsection resembles that of a beachball ( High cabintop camber, trunk cabin and side decks rather than flush decks, etc) the better it's ultimate stability. The more it resembles a raft ( flush deck with minimum camber, excessive beam etc ) the less it's ultimate stability.
This enables one to tell at a glance a boat's potential for ultimate stability. A slight reduction in beam can result in a huge improvement in ultimate stability.
Brent

 

Brent, i appreciate, and do seriously consider, what you are saying about a wheelhouse, but i don't remember seeing a wheelhouse on the profile of your 26 footer.

Likewise, your experience gunk-holing with twin-keels sheds practical light on the subject.
-thanks-

Oh, bye the way, does the origami method need to be plasma-cut, and do you provide the cnc disks with your designs?

 

Try it with a sealed mast!

Tad

 

Most of my boats were cut out with a cutting torch . I don't have cad cam for any yet.The loftings are as simple as I can make them.
I haven't drawn a wheelhouse on the 26 yet, but it's high time I did. With only 8 ft beam , very high cabintop camber, and a raised coachouse over the aft end of the cabin, it is totally self righting.
Brent

 

Tom Thumb

I found the Tom Thumb designs fit best in the 24 - 30 ft range steel boats. Though, I have some reserve about their stability, especially about the 26 footer. A quick calculation said this boat' capsize screening factor is 2.0, not so good, because she's very beamy for its size.
Tom Thumb 28 is a little less beamier and seems fine. In many ways, Tom Thumb 26 is similar to BR's Spray 28 of wich many people (even on this forum) said it's not an blue water boat. Now is my confusion: how could be the Tom Thumb 26 a go anywhere boat,as both Bruce Roberts sites claim it is, but having a 2.0 capsize screning factor?
Best regards!

 

Been a while sence I looked it up but isn't 2.0 and below in good shape?
I can't see anything wrong with the spray 28 other than being a little small.
Tom