Building is starting. Several questions in here. Answer any you like! :)

Catbuilder,

You intend to resuse the male mold for the second hull. Whatever you do, wax the mold, cover it with saran wrap or stretch bagging film, or tape it. If the glue runs your mold is finished.

I will go with War Whoop method. Saves on wood materials since you are not vacuum bagging.

 

Ditto the cool pictures. They enhance the excellent tutorial.

 

Birdcage

Here are pictures from an article in PB magazine. I hope I get it right. I do not know how to insert picture as it is asking for a URL address.

If you find it interesting, I will send you a copy of the article(s).

1. Birdcage mold
2. Fixing the foam
3. Fairing the foam
4.Laying up different density core.

Rx

 

One off

Here are some more. I think I got it now.

1. Temporary brackets before removing from mold.

2. Local Reinforcing in way of keel/crossbeam

3. Composite chainplate

 

Nice! Thank you!

Richard, I've read that link several times. Rx: Is there an entire article? If so, do you know the date of the professional boatbuilder magazine this is from. I'll go find this for sure!

Gurit is getting me a copy of the design manual today. I'll be making a copy. They said it is extremely rare and 10 years out of print.

War: I can't hire people from Goetz. Too expensive and my build site is in FL.

 

Nice! Thank you!

Richard, I've read that link several times. Rx: Is there an entire article? If so, do you know the date of the professional boatbuilder magazine this is from. I'll go find this for sure!

Gurit is getting me a copy of the design manual today. I'll be making a copy. They said it is extremely rare and 10 years out of print.

War: I can't hire people from Goetz. Too expensive and my build site is in FL.

 

Sorry I thought you were in RI for some reason.

 

I know... it's confusing! ha ha ha

I had to build in FL because it was 10's of thousands of dollars cheaper than building in the northeast. RI was one of the places I was looking because of Narragansett Bay. There is a lot of waterfront. You can't move the cat I'm building over land. One quote I got for that was $10,000 to go 2 miles to a boat ramp.

However, between RI people thinking their real estate was worth 2005 prices and the cost of heating a building, FL was about $25K-$30K less money to build.

 

Mold Alternatives for One Offs- Number 10 issue, April/may 1991 (quite dated eh)

"606"-Number 109 issue, OctoberNovember 2007 (also old)

Here are some more tips. Different issue though.

1. Core penetration and close out.

2. Limber Holes

 

Fairing Foam with custom made files I usually build on Dead True "I" beam

 

Shh. Don't tell everyone or it won't be!

 

I got a copy of Biodeau's Core Cell Bead and Cove Book. It really helped me visualize how to do the laminate as vertical sheets (from hull/deck joint to bilge). It showed how to stagger the overlaps of the layers. Very helpful.

HOWEVER, my plans show the "warp orientation" of the 0/+45/-45 triaxial fabric to be fore and aft.

Does the triaxial come so that the warp is *across* the roll?

I can't see any other way to keep the warp direction going the right way and still do vertical strips of lamination, as Bilodeau does.

 

Excellent pics, thanks!

However, wouldn't it be a lot easier to make limber holes by just putting a small piece of PVC pipe in your cove joint between the bulkhead and hull as you install the bulkhead?

 

In this picture, we see the laminates being bagged to the core. My designer suggests I "bag everything I can." In his small pamphlet on bead and cove foam construction, he also suggests bagging the laminate as you do the hull and that you will end up with too much resin and some air bubbles doing more than one layer by hand only.

If I was just going to do a hand layup, but then decide to bag, couldn't I use that Shop Vac technique I used on my wooden hull panels again? I mean... rather than NO bagging, wouldn't a little Shop Vac bagging be better than nothing?

 

No need to bag as everything is hand laid up. Just be patient in squeeging out the excess resin.Use a plastic squeege, or use peel ply. Peel ply will absorb the excess resin. Sometimes I use peel ply and squegge it, when its saturated, i remove it and apply again another peel ply before the resin sets.

I pasted the picture to show you that it is the practice to layup 90 degree to reinforce the keel area/mid section.