Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

Books

Wife bought me a copy of "Boatbuilding With Plywood" Written by Glen Witt. Has a lot of useful info.

I'm getting closer to having the Cobra finished so maybe I can start by fall.

 

sheet 2 frame drawings

Also there are a few things on the drawings that aren't clear to me.
1. Transom - it appears from the dashed lines that the center piece is on top of the framing. The note says "with 1/4 ply backing". That would leave a 1/2" gap between the this piece and the ply on the aft side?
2. Frame 1 - Some lines just don't make sense to me . . .

 

In both these frames the vertical lumber is cut to fit FLUSH TO the edging frames. The ply is glued over them to distribute the torquing stresses from the chainplate bolts which would tend to split the vertical grain of the 1 3/4" member and to absorb some of the crushing pressure of the thrubolt nuts.
Lockie thought of everything.

 

nailing

So cal, on my boat and the re-decking I just did, the nail spacing varies- from one to four inches apart. When you are ready to fasten a panel, the needed number of nails usually becomes obvious from the bending stress on the panel. The epoxy does most of the real work once it has set, and the nails just pull everything together tight until it cures. At least that is what is intended. The copper ring nails are very good fasteners even when the wood has become a bit soft. I think my frames had more nails than necessary, but the the rest of the boat had nails 3"-4'' apart in most areas and has lasted for 35 years- enough Nails should not be put in too tight of a line, off-setting them a bit is not as "pretty" , but helps keep from splitting along a grain line. B

 

Bruce.
How are you coming along with the float mods. ??
Sailing time is calling.

 

would building a strongback to make the hulls make building the hulls easier?

 

The whole idea of the construction method is designed to Eliminate the need for an expensive and time consuming strongback.

 

almost ready

OS7, The boat is back in the water and rigged. I put foam plugs in the float board holes until I have the boards finished- and I am starting on them this week. I was able to shim/selective assemble the crossbeams almost straight and tight, the best I have done yet. I have also added light dyneema running backs and have improved my mast rotation controls so I have several new things to play with. (Also a better main and spinnaker) The freshly painted floats look great! I might try it in a race next weekend B

 

Pics

Some pics of the new floats?

 

Good ONYA Bruce.
Good luck with your racing.

 

In the water!

Almost ready - I sailed it yesterday, and the to-do list is short. I have ordered board foam cores, they should be ready soon. Two NACA 2408 for the a-boards and an SD8020 for the rudder. B

 

Mast

Bruce you mentioned you had a rotating mast, what did you get it off of, or did you make it?

 

Bruce. Those pics make me green with envy.
We are just moving into the deepest part of our Winter here.

 

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Bruce, that's tremendous-congratulatons! I love the shade...

 

Hot!

Our hot season is just starting, and it has been over 90 degrees F every day this week. My crew thinks the bimini is the best feature. (it only weighs 10lbs and folds down or removes very easily for racing- sometimes) Diego, the mast was added by the previous owner, and is a complete mast and base from a Stiletto 23/27 catamaran. It is a "proper" multi section, fairly large and stiff but not too heavy. 36' overall and about 65-70 lbs complete with the ends, spreaders and diamonds and some halyards. I do not know the original manufacture, but the Stiletto owners assoc still has a web site. I am sure it is not a "cheap" rig but it really works well. B