Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

Discussion in 'Multihulls' started by oldsailor7, Jul 22, 2009.

  1. diegokid
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    diegokid Junior Member

    Plans

    Got the plans today, lots of questions and studying for me to do.
     
  2. John Jolly
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    John Jolly Senior Member

    Ive read a few bits and pieces about daggerboards in the floats - In the past I have only owned and sailed keel boats so I am still on big learning curve with Tri's, I noted Jamez wrote back in 2007 'Angled daggerboards in the floats (these things really work!!)' would it be worth while fitting these to the B24...?
     
  3. oldsailor7
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    oldsailor7 Senior Member

    I don't recommend it.
    You would get fed up having to go outboard every time you wanted to adjust the boards, especially on a filthy black rainy night.

    Also, in a sea condition of "Swells" the centre of pressure of the lee board moves fore and aft relative to the CB of the main hull as the boat yaws, resulting in an annoying fluctuation of the helm, which can be very tiresome.

    Great if you are only interested in racing though and have a good crew.
    Also you can have angled boards where the lift from the foil helps stabilise the boat. However you are getting into more rarified design considerations there. (Ask Doug Lord).

    Much better to have a pivotting centreboard which "Hides" in the front face of the cabin bench seat, and which you can adjust from the cockpit.

    Great for single handing. :D
     
  4. Gary Baigent
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    Gary Baigent Senior Member

    oldsailor, sorry to disagree but there is absolutely no reason to go out onto the float on a black night to adjust the daggers ... because the daggers can be left down. The B24 has enough dihedral in its beam to float for the windward dagger/foil to mostly clear the water surface ... so no problem. The only time you want to lift the windward completely free is in very light weather - and that is easy. And daggers are far more efficient than centreboards, no long draggy slot, better and narrower chord and shape and no leakage or cleaning problems.
     
  5. diegokid
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    diegokid Junior Member

    Buccaneer

    Guy at work has an old buccaneer 24 monohull. Said I could have the boat for a few hundred dollars. The mast is 28 ft long plus all the winches cleats blocks ect. Boat was holed during Katrina and has been in his backyard on stands ever since. Would this make a good candidate for a mast and other assorted parts for the Bucc 24 Tri or would the two less feet be a bad thing for mast height.
     
  6. oldsailor7
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    oldsailor7 Senior Member

    Does it come with the sails? If so how does the sail area compare with the B24sails. Sounds like a good deal if only for all the winches, fittings etc: which are expensive items to buy new.
     
  7. diegokid
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    diegokid Junior Member

    My luck

    I talked to him today. He sold it for $400.00 last Friday. :mad:
     
  8. bruceb
    Joined: Nov 2008
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    bruceb Senior Member

    mast

    DK, I don't think you will have any problem finding a mast by the time you are done building- and i think you will want a full size rig. The Buc 24 can carry more, and it needs the area in light-air southeastern conditions. The 30' rig also allows you to use a lot of "stock" jibs and some mains from several of the popular sport boats, a very good source of nearly new, inexpensive sails. That 28' mast was probably not stiff enough either. B
     
  9. bruceb
    Joined: Nov 2008
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    bruceb Senior Member

    Buc boards

    I only have my own experience on this, but I my opinion, the only part of the Buc 24 that does not "stand up" to more modern design, is the daggerboard design. The board and trunk as designed are both in the way and not as effective as most modern designs. There are several ways to gap seal or close the slot on a dagger board or a centerboard, and/or boards in the floats seem like an good alternative. Gary has posted some really good info earlier in the the Buc 24 threads. B
     
  10. oldsailor7
    Joined: May 2008
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    oldsailor7 Senior Member

    You are right Bruce.
    When I built my B24 I was going to sail it from New York to Bermuda.
    Having sailed that route the year before I knew what to expect--- and that was lots of junk in the water. Several of the boats in that race suffered board or rudder damage from hitting floating garbage carried by the gulf stream.
    I therefore fitted a triangular shaped fixed fin on mine, with a 1/2 round metal strip on the leading edge and a similar skeg in front of the rudder.
    It worked very well, but not in the confines of Toronto harbour, where the shoreline was littered with concrete debris from the construction of the outer harbour. :eek:
    So the following spring I cut a re-inforced slot in the keel and fitted a vertical board box, locked into the keel and the #5 frame, with 1" X 12" pieces of plank athwartships from the top of the box to the stringer on each side. The daggerboard was of rectangular planform, with parallel leading and trailing edges and an exposed area of 2% of the projected sail area. It had a 3:1 aspect ratio and a symetrical airfoil section.
    Since the edges were parallel a stiff and close fitting F/Glass mask sealed the board box top and bottom. When the board was UP the blunt end of the board matched the surface of the keel, and when it was Down, a piece of 4"X 1" screwed and epoxied to the top of the board, sealed the box top making a nice seat at the galley for the cook.
    This simple mod improved the windward ability, and kept the boat dry at all times.
    Worked for me. :D
     
  11. bruceb
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    bruceb Senior Member

    materials

    OS7, I am getting close to ordering some ply, and in going over the materials sheet, it does not look as if the ply specified is enough to build the MK-II cabin. Any comments? I have laid out scale paper patterns of the parts and can't get them out of the ply count- by quite a bit. Better to find out now:) B
     
  12. oldsailor7
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    oldsailor7 Senior Member

    Bruce, if that is so I suspect that the materials list still specs the ply only for the Mk 1 cabin.
    I would appreciate it if you let me know what the requirements are for the Mk 2 cabin when you order yours and I will amend the materials list accordingly.
    Thanks for picking that up. :D
     
  13. John Jolly
    Joined: Oct 2010
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    John Jolly Senior Member

    B24 build

    Hi guys,
    Have been busy in between the snow minus 7, wind and rain - cutting wood, just a few more frames to cut and then I can start glueing up the wood edging, have posted a pic to inspire all you Buc builders out their to get your power saws out! - I am still undecided about daggerboards in the floats- I would be interested to here from Garry (owner of Miranda) how she sails with float daggerboards and without her mainhull daggerboard which I beleive he removed. John
     

    Attached Files:

  14. oldsailor7
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    oldsailor7 Senior Member

    Nice work there John.
    What sort of plywood are you using.??
     

  15. bruceb
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    bruceb Senior Member

    materials

    Jolly, that is nice to see. A new Buc going together! OS7, my boat is not stock so I am not sure there will be a good inventory but I will keep track of what I use. B
     
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