Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

Ali Tube beams

Thanks for yours comments Bruce, its basically exactly what I had in mind - I will keep to Lock Crowthers measurements and make slightly longer inner Ali sleeves (sockets) 4 X 300mm in length with same S/S fixings and fill inner Ali sleeves with glassed in wooden plug to give extra purchase for S/S bolts which should also stop the resonance of noise which tends to travel along hollow metal tubing.
As for the Ali Tube beam centre joints on frames 4 and 7 -I am thinking on the lines of having these proffesionally welded and dispensing with the the wood plug joints altogether (any comments welcome)
I still havn't enquired about the costs of suitable Ali tubing or availability yet - will post info as and when. John

 

Provided the tubes are properly welded there should not be any problems as the horizontal thru bolts transfer the torsional forces into the no:4 bulkhead, leaving the V joint only subject to compression forces.

 

Good onya Pat, that sounds very technical and correct - my centre crossbeams are as good as welded>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Pics

I woul like to 2nd diegokids request for more pics or video's on B24 - has any one out there got any more pics or video's - we would love to see more!

 

welded

I haven't seen any plans yet but from what I gather where the crossbeams meet in the center of the boat there is wooden dowel that is inserted in the two then they are bolted to this. Sooo if the outriggers were installed on the swaged pipe to make the removal easier,"using block and tackle already on the boat" the beams could be welded in the middle. So instead of having 4 crossbeams, two per side, you would have six. The two welded ones in the middle with the swaged ends and the other 4 on the outriggers.

Am I correct or is the cholesterol medicine working on me.

The first time I stepped on a sail boat about 1.5 years ago I immediately realized the sail was just a vertical wing. The lift was just being applied in a different direction. One of the other threads I was reading is showing a new boat that literally has a wing instead of a sail!

 

here

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/multihulls/v-39-albatross-world-speed-sailing-contender-34872.html

 

If the centre tubes are connected with the V chamfer and wood core, they still remain embedded in the Frame 4 assembly when the boat is de-mounted. The only tubes which are removed are the four outer tubes which remain attached to the floats.
Lock just wanted to make it simple and avoid expensive professional (or perhaps imperfect DIY welding).

 

Welding

I'm really fortunate on those ends. Growing up we built fiberglass river boats, most are still here today and sought after. One of my younger brothers run a paint and body shop, he just painted the 65 427SC Cobra I've been working on for two years. Other brother still does glass work and is a welder, certitied at NGSS on most everything. Sons a welder too. Ichose the adventure of the USAF while still doing things with my hands like the Car and I work as a outside machinist at NGSS.

Looking foward to tis (yep thats the medicine) adventure.

I go to several boards for cars, firearms, ect and I must say this has been one of the most informative and friendly yet. Thanks for everyones patience for the newbie and my rants.

Happy Thanksgiving all.

Jim and Evelyn

 

Tube Beams

Hi all,
Re. welding centre beams together, I doubt that tube only 2.5mm wall
thickness would provide sufficient compressive strength to support the crushing effect of the bolts. Maybe a vertical web could be welded in when
the centres are welded or close fitting heavy wall [6mm+] al tube where bolts are fitted . I refer only to fitting the centre tubes . Where the outer tubes disconnect for demounting the boat,I don't know the dimensions of the Goldspars socket system or if it would be strong enough for the task.Heavy wall tubing as Bruceb has used or Lock Crowthers wooden solution seems an effective fix.

 

It's much more important to have wooden plugs epoxied into the ENDS of the tubes, to prevent water getting in. Those tubes---full of water ---would be a considerable weight dis-advantage.

 

Whats the other bucc 24 thats clocked over 20 knots? I thought my old one was the fastest

one of the 3 or 4 times we did over 20 knots we were doing 17 knots downwind with just reefed main and Jib and holding on for our lives and a big racing keelboat started catching us with his kite up so I said to my crew, put the kite up! his face went white and he did nothing I had to tell him 4 time to clip the kite on and pull it up!!! (small kite not the big green one!)

 

Tube beams

Some good and valid points have been made here - ie a small web to centre cross beam joints or slightly thicker welded inner sleeve to joint - also the ingress of water into the tubes which didn't cross my mind but very important to keep the water out - so thanks to one and all for your comments

 

Samnz

so I said to my crew, put the kite up! his face went white and he did nothing I had to tell him 4 time to clip the kite on and pull it up!!! (small kite not the big green one!)

Then what happened. Come on finish the tale.

 

Details?

That is why Samnz's crew called his boat "The green death trap" My crew won't put the chute up either when it is blowing- something about having to take it down? I haven't been over about 15kts with my boat, it was a bit scary, but I had good control. B

 

crossbeams

You have to have something in the tubes to take the compression where they bolt on the the bulkhead- the al pipe distorts very easily and the bolts have to be snug to prevent movement. Mine has wood, and it has worked fine for 35 years. It is hard to keep water out of the tubes- even with good end seals, there are still several small holes that can leak. Just be aware and add a removable plug in a low spot- a wine cork works fine B