Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

A multi's sails are cut flatter.
Just give the sailmaker the info that Lock has on the plans re: the curve ratios.

 

sails

Fred, The Buc (and many other multihull designs) is stiffer and can carry a given size sail in higher wind/speed, so the sails have to be made stronger/heavier than a equal size mono hull sail. It is well worth going with sails from a loft that is used to multis, there are several in Florida and also on the west coast that can do a good job. The Buc 24 is a little stiffer than a Corsair 24, but they are close enough that any loft used to the corsairs can do a good job for the Buc.
I tend to be "cheap", so I re-purposed used sails from several different mono sport boats that have worked well for me, but I have to be very careful of the wind limitations, particularly with the jibs. I have stretched the heck out of several jibs trying to push them a little to much.
For what it is worth, in the sort of medium lake conditions where I sail, I have found a flatter jib and fuller main seem to be the best combination.
B

 

Getting the bottom panels glued on today. I used 2 layers of 4mm on the very bottom, 6mm between chines, and 4mm on the rest. Got the centerboard trunk installed, and mocked up a board. The floats are done and ready for paint, and at this point I have worked 255 hours on it and I've spent 5k so far. I will make good time because of the parts boat i bought for all the aluminum and stainless stuff. So a little less fabbing for me to do.

 

Thanks for the photo freddyj. Your progress is amazing. And thanks for the time and money figures. It is nice to know what other builders are spending on their projects.
nelson

 

I have read that if you have a clam cleat for the size of line you are using for the center board downhaul, you drill a hole the size of your line horizontaly through the base of the v grooves. The theory goes that when you hit something with the center board the line jams tighter into the v and then falls into the hole at the base and releases. I haven't tried this method but was planning on using it for my own project. You will get to it long before I will. If any one else has tried this I would love to hear about it.
nelson

 

I shudder to think what this boat would cost with all new parts. Buying a whole boat for parts is the only way to go. Though, I doubt a guy could make minimum wage by building and selling. This is a labor of love, for sure.

 

Bottom panels on.

 

Bottoms up!

Congrats Fred!
You are making good progress, and I like your choices on bottom plys. With your recycled parts you are well along on your build.
Another savings with the used Buc parts is the time necessary to measure and cut the beams and water stays. Since yours are already cut and drilled, installing them should be straight forward .
I also have used clam cleats/line combos that are expected to slip if over stressed, but for them to work the cleats have to be the "weaker" plastic ones, not the alloy. I usually also have a back up standard cleat in case I really don't want any chance of it slipping.
Bruce

 

looks great! are you justg doing provisions for outer boards for now?

Barry

 

What do you mean?

 

Oh! lol i saw that pic and thought for a second it was a float! lol saw it on phone last night, just saw on pc its main.


Barry

 

Locke specified solid wood for the centerplate and rudder. But I've seen where people make them out of plywood also. Is one better than the other? Would plywood with a thicker fiberglass coating be as good as solid hardwood with a thinner coating? Would one be lighter than another?
The reason I ask is because I could use up some exterior grade plywood I already have and it would save me a trip to the lumberyard. The cost is not the issue, though I do like saving money where I can.
Opinions?

 

Interesting you should ask that question. This last winter I built a sailing dingy. The dagger board I built with plywood because I had some scraps big enough. The rudder I built using lengths of cedar laminated together to get the width. Both the rudder and dagger board are 1 inch thick and 8 inches deep using the same naca profile and just coated with epoxy. I found the rudder very stiff length wise but the dagger board had a bit more flex than I liked and I worried that it might break at the high stress point where it exits the dagger board slot. So I just laminated some uni directional carbon on both sides that I had. much stiffer now. The plywood only has fibers running length wise in 50 percent of the thickness. In answer to your question you could put a thicker layer of glass on the skin to gain back the strength that the plywood doesn't have but I think it would be heavier than just making it out of solid wood. There are many ways to make a board. Hope this helps.
nelson

 

Freddy;
The trouble with ply for centreboards is half the timbers grain is in the wrong direction, the best way is to laminate cedar or similar and then cover with double bias. You can add staggered uni down the sides if you wish and I would add an extra layer in the cheeks area, where it is against the hull when fully down.

 

RR +1.
Laminating plank is the only way to go, with the wood grain going the long way that is. No need for expensive carbon sheathing. Three layers of unigrain glass cloth (again with the warp thread going lengthways) laid up in epoxy all at the same time and rolled out with an alloy disk roller, to get rid of the excess resin and provide a slick surface. The layers of glass should be done one side at a time. Do one side, overlap the leading edge 3" (7.5mm), let set. Grind off the lapped edge to fair, repeat on other side. Sand smooth all over. (Don't cut into the glass cloth),Coat with final coat of epoxy. Job done.