Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

HATCHES ON FLOATS.
For access to the hardware for crossarms and chainplates, it seems I need access hatches in the floats. I don't believe it is specified on the plans, but, what does everybody have? Home-made or store-bought? What size would be best? I could make my own flush-fitting access hatches that would be screwed in, since they don't need opened often. Or a bigger hatch to use for light storage. But i don't want to weaken the structure with too big of a hole.
Should this be addressed now or after the hull is finished? I am ready to install the deck on one float this weekend.

Thanks,
Fred

 

Fred
Definitely do it now.
Round 5" screw in flush fit with O ring seal inspection hatch is what our test mule Buc 24 had. Seems they lasted the test of time. Back up with a ring of ply or timber ( thin) to the opening perimiter under deck.
Have seen some with an oversize ply ring fitted to the inspection port perimeter above deck with rounded edges to act as water barrier if bury of the deck occurs but that is personal choice.
Cheers
Craig and the Ezifold team

 

I agree with Craig. Screw in deck plates are great, come in different sizes and when tightened will be completely waterproof. On some of them you can replace the plate with a vent for use during storage to help prevent condensation and moisture inside your float. One place to look is defender.com they have decent prices here in the US.
Dan

 

It seems that with a 5 inch access port, that it would have to be very strategically located to be able to reach everywhere that has to be reached. where are yours located?

 

Fred
You are correct our old girl had them arms reach from intended end use.
The Armstrong is the rolls Royce. Just shot out to workshop and took photos of good options for you all 6" and a ring flange for the Armstrong hatch.
A picture better represents.
Cheers
Craig and the Ezifold team

QUOTE=freddyj;727923]It seems that with a 5 inch access port, that it would have to be very strategically located to be able to reach everywhere that has to be reached. where are yours located?[/QUOTE]

 

ports

Fred, yes you have to have the screw in ports, both to access the bolts for float attachment, and also to pump out the floats if/when they leak. A six inch makes both tasks easier if your arms are a little "stout" . My favorites are "Nova Rada" (Spelling?), but they don't seen to be available anymore. They have a flange that extends over the screw mounting flange, and are well made. The "new" replacement from asia is a poor imitation of the ports, but probably better than the beckson (my opinion) and other ports with no flange to protect the seal area. I dont have any experience with the "armstrongs" as I haven't found a US supplier.
B

 

What size of monohull boat will have a usable mast and sails for a B24? I've been looking at mono hulls on craigslist and it seems I could buy a whole boat to rob the rigging off of and then just get rid of the hull. But will a monohull mast and sails work? I'm thinking I could also sail the mono till the buc is done.

 

I used to use J24 sails on my old Telstar26

 

Freddy, It's a pity you aren't in Aus, because I was offered a J24 for free.
I turned it down,

 

The basic rule of thumb is to get a mast of the same size section as your plans show. Multihull masts run heavier in section to stand up to the increased loads so for a 24 look at masts for 26-28 footers. For sails keep close to designed size and try to find flatter cuts, triple stitched if possible. A bigger boat's #3 jib for instance. Find something to get you moving and upgrade along the way. Cutting down sails can work but is another skill set and takes time. Places like Atlantic Sail Traders, Bacon Sails and Minney's are good places to look for used, perhaps trading in from a donor boat is possible too.

 

That's what I needed to know. I'll keep my eyes open for a good deal on a 25 to 30 footer. I can use all the winches, cleats, rigging, etc. and save money for now.
I got the deck on the first float over the weekend and spent this evening filling screw and staple holes.

 

Deck on one float. Ready to start on the next one!

 

Parts

Fred, if you use the fore triangle as shown on the plans, any number of 22-25' sport boat and cruiser sails will "almost" fit. I had an old J-24 155% given to me- I had the cupped leach cut off and it has been Very fast in under 12 kt conditions, and since my mast is taller, I am using a modified main from a Elliot 7.7. I get by on three small winches just fine. I do have a good rotating mast, but my homemade boom is about half of a Catalina 22's mast. Broken masts are really cheap
B

 

I started on the second pontoon hull the s week. Now that I know what I'm doing it's going way way faster. I wish I had known someone who was building one before me, that I could've helped. The extra experience would've made it go so much faster.It looks like the second one will take less than two weeks of evenings, while the first took two months!

 

Take notes

Fred, take some notes, and write a guide while it is still fresh in your mind- mistakes included especially. We all can use some help.
B