Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

I used slightly modified magic 25 sails on my 7.6m tri with a new 10.5 metre mast and rigging and an old GBE boom a mate gave me. All good so far. In Aus maybe a seawind 24 rig?? Or an old F24 rig if you can find one??

 

I want to buy a set of Buccaneer 24 trimaran plans.

Who do I contact, please?

 

I believe Old sailor has passed the baton onto outside the box now.

Old sailor or Outside the box may be able to help.

 

Ok thank you!

 

Epoxy over ply; again.

The recognised wisdom is that 3 coats of quality epoxy is all thats needed to seal a plywood build, Indeed I believe this is all OS7 used on his boat, no glass sheathing.
I am thinking a compromise, one coat of resin to seal then applying kevlar veil/tissue (http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Kevlar_Veil_1063/Surfacing_Veils) with peel ply to both sides of the ply.
The product only weighs .25oz, whilst it would be clearly lighter than a 4oz cloth would it be significantly heavier than 3 coats of resin ?
Veil is also available in e glass and even carbon, however according to the supplier these won't add any structural benefit while the kevlar does.
Informed opinions please.

 

Funny you mention that cause of the million questions I have overflowing from being immersed in this thread, that was on top. I've done lots of aero stuff where weight is everything and I know from that testing, every layer of cloth is lighter than equal layer of resin, and way stronger. But of course I have to clue if this is counter intuitive in boat application? Do the layers actually provide needed thickness regardless of there added weight. And if that's even the case could just one thickened layer of epoxy with lighter weight fillers be swapped. Example that comes to mind is an additional heat shield I use to make for protecting electronics from turbine heat. Despite a heavy thick weave cloth it had to look pretty, so to do it in one go, I'd do layup then take remaining epoxy and add viscofil to it and just before kicked use a nappy brush to lay it on and self level Then when it looked good threw it in oven to lock it down fast. Layer method just took longer and peeled in heat. And again all epoxy was heavier.

Barry

 

Quote by Clive Cessna:- "Simplicate and add less weight".

A coat of glass cloth may be less weight that a coat of epoxy. (I am not convinced). But applying a layer of glass cloth saturated and leveled with epoxy uses three times the amount of epoxy. Use of polyester resin and glass cloth is a no-no on plywood. Polyester on foam is good. But polyester on plywood quickly delaminates. The fate of the Kraken 40 trimaran "Ringo" is a perfect example.
A properly designed plywood boat provides it's own strength without any coatings, but will deteriorate quickly.
The coatings, are not to add strength, but to prevent the absorption of water (and water vapour),by the wood, causing loss of strength and rot. Polyester resin won't do this alone. Epoxy will.
I found on my boats, (5), that a ding in the side is quickly and effectively fixed with a daub of epoxy filler and a dab of paint.

 

Actually you just hit on something I didn't even think of!!! If you add cloth, it's a boat that needs to be smooth, so ya might start down the road of heavy fillers to now smooth it out! Granted you could bag and bypass all that, but your now out of the real of building in a backyard.And yeah poly is just not necessary in this day and age, epoxy is so abundant and at this level quite a reasonable trade off for its qualities. And again I study and tinker before I move, so I had planned to do some testing on panels just to satisfy my own curiosity. I know foam and glass structures can be super strong and light, lighter than some wood counterparts, but my worry was that foam doesn't appreciate collisions too well. I've built some foam core wings that could take 9gs no problem, and weight seem to defy logic, but handling them you could almost see finger dents.

 

And as a hardwood guy I get it on the saturation front, I also know once it does puff, new openings just let it all in like a sponge. That's why I've made it a habit in water source areas to only coat late in day, so cooler temps allow slow cure for more soaking in.


Barry

 

So of I decided to muck about what would be a good test on some okoume, in terms of cloth weight? Say i cut matching sq ft panels, one just epoxy the other cloth, 8oz, 9oz? Honestly not sure what's adequate for a hull. Or bypass all that and layup on wax paper to peel and weight direct. The. Resin just weight it alone! Haha

Barry

 

+1 to what Os7 is saying. Of all the boats we have built/repaired over the years even the old ply Hamilton Jetboats the ply boats were/are the easiest to effect repair by Os7 method or scarf new section epoxy seal and epoxy coat all surfaces epoxy glue new scarf section in and good as new apply paint go boating.
Same for low tech new build. JFWIW without getting into the ply glass debate. Hopefully Gary might add his input also with his well documented light ply builds having stood the test of time.

 

Thanks Warwick have had contact.

 

Actually along those lines I suppose even a whole panel repair would be a whole lot less invasive too?

Learning all the time! Haha

Barry

 

For those who want to fit a pivoting centreboard to the B24, plans are available on the Buccaneer 28 thread. The dwgs are easily adapted to the B24.

To those who would rather fit a vertical dagger board, I am just completing a dwg of a suitable board which I will post for printing down A4.
For builders who have not yet started their build, or are still working on it, it will be a simple job to install.
If you have already completed the hull with the dagger as in the plans you may find it a bit more difficult.

 

Running over there now! Haha

Barry