Anti-Seize Compounds

Greetings all,

I have just spent half of yesterday and most of this morning beating the s*** out of two jam nuts in a steering linkage with every tool in the box.

When the thing was put together, about 10 years ago, nobody bothered to use any kind of lubricant, anti-seize, etc. So now, after soaking it in WD-40 for a week, drenching it in Releasall, attacking it with giant wrenches, hammers, etc. and torching it with half a pound of propane, these two little nuts are finally free.

I coated everything in Permatex Silver Anti-Seize when reassembling it, so whoever has to do this in another 10 years will have an easier time of it. But I've heard that the silver stuff isn't ideal for all situations. So:

What anti-seize / lubricant compounds have you had success with (and which ones have left you cursing)?

 

Mat, we use Spookpis to get little skroefietjies like your's loose.

I have used silicone to keep seizure at bay, especially stainless steel bolts and nuts can be a pain in the watsename. You get waterproof form-a-gasked for sale in car spares shops that doesn't harden like in rock hard, more like rubber and is re-enterable, I would imagine it is the right product to use.
In SA you ask for Aapkak, translated it is ape ****. Don't know what was responsible for naming it that but it is a general term in the auto industry

 

Loctite 243 as standard, 266 when it is used in higher ambient temp. (stands over 200°C)

cheers
Richard

 

Pine tar..

 

Sheep Ball Sweat...

Hello...
When you reassemble it all - spray it with Fluid Film...
Regular maintenance in a can...
SH.

 

The jam nuts may come loose if you lubricate them. Some have loctite in the threads when new. That is what makes them so difficult to take out. Check the instructions in the new parts.

 

There are times when thread-locker is called for. Not in my particular case, though- this linkage is held in place by torquing to ~50 ft.lb, and must be loosened for adjustment now and then. (The original in this case was bare steel on bare steel, locked with rust.)

Re. the threadlockers: The common ones around here seem to be:
Loctite Blue 242 - for vibration protection on small-medium bolts
Loctite Red 271 - the standard, aggressive threadlocker
Loctite Green 290 - when you want it to stay put under anything short of a plasma torch

And for anti-seize, Permatex 76764 (the silver stuff) is my current weapon of choice for steel-on-steel reassembly, unless specified otherwise (eg. a car's wheel lugs, which are never lubed). Supposedly it's good to 870 Celsius.

Ahh, yes, the instructions. Handy, when they're actually there. I've noticed a disturbing trend of late for spare parts to ship without instructions or lube/torque specs, on the assumption you have the proper shop manual for the device at hand.... (I'm looking at you, Canadian Tire....)

 

Permatex should work for that . If it is torqued they usually assume there is some kind of lubrication. You could also cover it with waterproof grease.

 

I use both the silvery stuff and the coppery stuff, I have one can on the boat and one can at home. I always wonder about dissimilar metals etc. but have never got around to figuring it out. What I do know is that everything comes apart nicely and even using the tiniest dab it gets all over. I look forward to a little bit more information from the forum on the magic goo. Whenever I do something on the boat I always think ahead to what it will be like for the poor SOB that will deal with it next (me) and make it as easy on him as possible!

 

Seconded for Pine tar or stockholm tar as its known over here, I have used it on iron mooring root shackles in the bottom of our tidal creek & 6 years later when i went to replace the riser chain they came undone easily, Smells nice too!

 

Don't forget Lano-Cote where stainless screws go into aluminum.