Briggs & Stratton 5 hp outboard

Discussion in 'Outboards' started by Raftman1979, Oct 20, 2008.

  1. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: North of Cuba

    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

    I am told the owner is interested in selling. I haven't spoken with him about it.
     
  2. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    Anode and Exhaust on B&S 5 hp

    Attached is photo of 5 HP ( its not 4 that because in australia you have to register a boat with over 4 HP ..new logo is cheaper)

    Anode from 4 hp Suzuki is on the Ventilation plate .
    To make exhaust ..bend a length of welding wire to the shape you want ..then bend 22mm pipe to same shape ..well try ..I had to put a joint in it ..a bender is better than a spring. Plumbing angle at the top 22mm female to 22mm male .This is silver soldered to the 22 mm pipe. I intend to hold it on with a sping as the B/S outlet is "split" as you will see if you examine it carefully....I bolted the support bracket to the shaft casting ..there is nothing inside it at this point.
    Nice and quiet ..glug glug glug ...you can hear the tappets ...

    Throttle cable goes to conventional Evinrude throttle/shifter...one cable to pull for the B/s and one to push for the throttle on the 30 HP alternative engine. Any questions just ask
     

    Attached Files:

  3. rankamature
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    Location: Piedmont, SC

    rankamature New Member

    I know this is an old thread, but....

    People who come across it might want to have the facts. B&S outboards aren't lawnmower motors. They are 4 stroke OHV marine motors. They do have a rev limiter which will kick in when revved out of the water. They top out at 4000 rpm, which is about 1200 rpm lower than most traditional 5hp outboards, but still put out comparable power. They are a bit louder as well, but are built with a fairly effective muffler so it's not like sitting next to a lawnmower. Are they the top of the line for a small outboard? No. But they are a great value for the price, are tough as nails if you're not a dope and take care of them, and parts are readily available everywhere. Just my 2 cents.
     
  4. Pjitty
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    Location: Havastraw,NY

    Pjitty Junior Member

    As posted previously, I bought mine in 2006. I use mine in my dinghy on the Hudson River, brackish water. I do my own maintenance, I take care of my machinery, and to be honest, this outboard is the best investment I've made since I started boating. I've had it apart to clean and grease and I can't believe how simple it is. I use my dinghy more than my cruiser, and I enjoy it more. I can't see spending twice on an outboard when this one is [to me] just as good as any other brand. And yes, I would buy another in a Heartbeat...

    Joe D
     
  5. Coalyard
    Joined: May 2012
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    Location: Illinois

    Coalyard New Member

    Hello, I've really enjoyed this about the Briggs outboard. Pistnbroke, thanks you for the picture showing your exhaust. I have an early Briggs outboard, the one with the kill switch on the cowl, not on the tiller arm.
    Now for my problem. I can let the motor sit all winter, hook up the fuel line, turn on the fuel switch, prime the bulb, set it on choke, and usually 2 pulls it fires right up. However, when out fishing, I shut the motor off, first by taking it out of gear, and then use the kill switch. Fish awhile, and then the motor will not restart. Not even a backfire, no matter what I do, it will not start. So, I row back, and maybe the motor will start after fooling with it. Shifting from forward to reverse and back to nuetral, even trying to adjust the nuetral switch like the Briggs people recommended.
    Any ideas?
    thank you
     
  6. HelicopterJohn
    Joined: May 2012
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    Location: Seffner, Florida

    HelicopterJohn HelicopterJohn

    Starting Ideas

    Hi,

    I would check the coil and make sure you are getting fire to the plug when you have the issue described. I work on a lot of lawnmowers with B&S engines and occasionally I have found a bad ignition coil that has the same symptons as you describe.

    Just something you might want to try.

    John
     
  7. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    I have one of these engines and much experience with it ......when it wont start you should spray some WD40 or equivalent into the air intake ...if it starts you have a fuel problem...when cold it starts but hot it does not ....it is possible its the igniton but unless you have moved the coil away from the flywheel magnets they are 100% Make sure you dont have too big a plug gap or a bad plug cap connection. In my opinion its fuel and maybe needs the float level raising or richen a little . In france( that lot that killed diana and crashed Concorde) at the moment so cannot look at my manual to give more advice....
     
  8. abrogard
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: australia

    abrogard Junior Member

    I just got one of these for $150 - minus petrol tank and choke cable not attached - sounds like it might be worth it?

    But what I need to know if I'm to register the boat with it is where is the engine number?

    I can find two barcode numbers on it and one of them has the model number in it, I think, from my researches on the web - WAA0101. Could it also be the engine number?

    These are the two numbers:

    WAA0101000101
    W0310080023884

    I'm nervous about taking the top off to have a look because of the string pull thing - being ignorant of how they are made I imagine if I take the top off I might have some spring or something fly off and the string pull unravel and I can't put it back....

    Not a naturally bold and enterprising lad, am I?

    So it'd be good if the number is in the barcode.

    Anyone happen to know?

    :)
     
  9. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    that number is the only one you will get ..fine for registration unless you want to punch one on yourself. you wont find the blocks individually numbered they just made so many so fast they did not do it ,,just the plate
     
  10. abrogard
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: australia

    abrogard Junior Member

    Ah, okay. Thanks for that. The top number, you mean? Not much of 'a plate' - more of a sticker, but that's it, eh?


    I notice you speak well of these engines, that's good to see. The choke cable is off this one. It just comes to a stop midair at the side of the engine, near the plate the throttle cable attaches to. That's an easy fix or what?

    regards,

    ab :)
     
  11. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Likes: 34, Points: 48, Legacy Rep: 404
    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    the stamped plate is horisontal and immediatly above the silencer..painted black part of the air cooling cowl..about 2 x 4 in
     
  12. abrogard
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: australia

    abrogard Junior Member

    Thank you. Found it. Was looking for a vertical plate despite you plainly telling me it was horizontal.

    Found the number under the paint and rust.

    127602 0112 21 030924 FP

    Now to figure out which is the model, which is the engine number.... Looking on B&S site with all its many 'helpful' pages and can't get that info out of it. Can't get a hit for any part of that number as yet.

    Thanks for your help. I'm getting there.

    :)
     
  13. Raftman1979
    Joined: Oct 2008
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    Location: Peotone, IL

    Raftman1979 Junior Member

    On every Briggs & Stratton engine I've ever messed with, the starter rope recoil thing is built into the shroud. If you remove the shroud, the recoil stuff comes off with it and won't unwind or anything.

    You'd have to bend some sheet metal tabs back in order to make the spring go flying. And even then, it's not too terribly hard to put it back together. I've had to replace broken starter ropes before.
     
  14. abrogard
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: australia

    abrogard Junior Member

    Well that's very good to know, thanks for that. The rope is frayed. I look at it and think I'm going to have to replace it before long (once I start using the thing).
     

  15. Raftman1979
    Joined: Oct 2008
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    Location: Peotone, IL

    Raftman1979 Junior Member

    I've had frayed B&S starter ropes that work for years.

    What I usually do with a B&S is gently tug out on the rope until the ratchet mechanism thing engages, then give it a yank. That keeps the shock-load off the rope.

    Also learn where the end of the rope is, ... pull it all the way out, slowly, until you get to the end, so you know where to stop pulling when you're starting it.
     
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