Brand new guy aluminum pilothouse plans, thoughts?

This is a boat builder out of Russia from what I have been able to determine they do very high quality work. The price of boats in the United States has gone from high to ludicrous. Boat show prices rose an average of 30 percent this last year. I was looking at a fiberglass boat last year at 68k this year the base price went to 96k. I simply will not participate in this price gouging. I know that tensions are high between us and Russia but I don't believe that fault rests on any of the people trying to make a living at a ship yard there. The representatives I have talked to have been nothing but courteous and helpful. I will be receiving the boat as basically a hull and super structure and rigging the entire thing myself.

 

I didn't sell it well, but that system will even adjust the throttle for conditions like wind and current and work to your heading. It is like having a paid person there.

 

The weight of the superstructure is really important. Every ounce heavier and it will cause more and more roll.

 

I have been running my trolling boats this way for many years. The 112lb thrust Ulterra is a dream to steer with. I carry a remote around my neck and can set the trolling motor to follow a track, a heading, maintain speed and spot lock the boat over a small spot. A small bank of 50ah 12v batteries or a single 36v 50ah battery provides more runtime than I could possibly ever need. The motor has so much leverage at the bow the boat reacts immediately to inputs. It requires very low settings to impart turns. I looked at the reactor but I decided to stick with the method I have been using for years which works very well. Plus the Ulterra stows and deploys with the push of a button on its own so you don't have to go to the bow. Since having a bow mounted motor I think I may have used an anchor twice.

 

The superstructure is included in the 2800 lbs dry weight. I was seriously considering trying to do a ballast system like bar crusher boats out of Australia but it's just too much work. They literally leave an open portion of the V at the transom that runs forward. When the boat slows down it fills with water that creates ballast at a super low center of gravity. Then when you take off it evacuates.

 

What would you fellas suggest at the stern as far as profile to provide the most possible stability with out a super broaching tendency?

 

I'm just worried about what the wind does with a cabin. As a general rule, I try to fish wind at my back and have better numbers on hours this way. But I can't love the electric here. There are a few guys who love the small gas ap.

 

I researched the reactor extensively and even get a discount on Garmins stuff. The new remote no doubt is incredible and user friendly. However having the motors separated and allowing each to turn independently greatly increases my center to center distance. This pushes the kicker much further port. Increasing likelihood of downrigger cables and lines getting in the prop. It also makes the kicker push the boat more crooked. With a bow mount with auto pilot it swings the bow effortlessly instead of trying to push the stern around. If i ever need to turn the kicker i simply go to the second station and turn the main and kicker manually.

The new Minn Kotas with a seperate heading sensor along with the one in the motor itself do an incredible job of knowing your heading and where the boat is actually pointed.