Brand new guy aluminum pilothouse plans, thoughts?

[REELCRAZY]

I am planning a 26 foot aluminum pilothouse with a 300 mercury 4 stroke and 20hp kicker motor. Both motors will be mounted on 6 inch setback jackplates and tied together with a tie bar. So I can reduce the center to center distance.

I am modifying a stock plan from a boatbuilder to try and fit my needs better. I made the following changes.

Raise interior cabin height by approximately 5 inches, I did this by increasing hull depth as opposed to raising the cabin further over the deck.

Extended the length of the cabin by approximately 2 feet.

Moved the walkway in the cabin to one side to create more comfortable seating on the port side.

Changed the cockpit to fish better by adding a Baitwell

Flat gunnels to mount downriggers and rod holders to a track system

Removed rails

Modified the location of mooring cleats

Modified the swim platforms to accommodate the two motors

Modified the hull to be less tender at rest and still be able to ride nicely in rough seas.

The following are my best attempt at cross sectional representations of the hull design and some other changes that I am trying to make.

 

[Ad Hoc]

Welcome to the forum Reelcrazy.

Only comment i see, is that the chine is too wide:

10" or 250mm is way too much. You only need around 50-75mm max for that.
The 3 degree down angle is ideal
But you also need to understand how you will arrange the plating/structure too.

With a 19 degree deadrise, I assume you are expecting to be out in heavy weather?

 

[REELCRAZY]

I am trying to do the impossible like every other boat builder by building a hull that doesn't pound, is stable at rest or displacement speed, and isn't susceptible to broaching. That was my reasoning for the more pronounced chine as it moves towards the stern.

 

[REELCRAZY]

I do quite a bit of trolling at 3 mph or less and do not want a boat that is going to roll considerably with two or three anglers on one side. I am getting rid of the problem of scuppers taking in water by having a completely flat cockpit right out through the swim platforms. If i get in a really bad situation of a following sea i plan to keep the two sizeable doors closed to keep water out. If i get green water in the cockpit it should evacuate on its own.

 

[bajansailor]

Welcome to the Forum Reel Crazy.

Following on from Ad Hoc's very relevant observation above, I think you would get more reactions to your design proposal if you could post a copy of the lines plan, along with a better copy of the general arrangement plan.
And if you could post them 'full size', rather than as thumbnails, then even better!

I had to google zip wake chine interceptors -
https://zipwake.com/

Re how the motors are connected with a tie bar, will you typically use the little one for (eg) trolling while leaving the big engine with the leg in the water?

 

[REELCRAZY]

Welcome to the Forum Reel Crazy.

Following on from Ad Hoc's very relevant observation above, I think you would get more reactions to your design proposal if you could post a copy of the lines plan, along with a better copy of the general arrangement plan.
And if you could post them 'full size', rather than as thumbnails, then even better!

I had to google zip wake chine interceptors -
https://zipwake.com/

Re how the motors are connected with a tie bar, will you typically use the little one for (eg) trolling while leaving the big engine with the leg in the water?

Yes the large motor will probably stay in the water. Both motors will be on the same plane so I will see if the tie bar setup will allow me to trim the large motor out of the water or not. I usually steer the boat with a bow mounted electric trolling motor while the kicker simply supplies thrust. I'll load up some more stuff. I am using morpholio trace and don't have another program to properly render the boat.

 

[Ad Hoc]

... I think you would get more reactions to your design proposal if you could post a copy of the lines plan, along with a better copy of the general arrangement plan....

Agreed.
As this would then enable a more holistic point of view, rather than simple piecemeal comments.

 

[REELCRAZY]

The design changes include increasing height inside cabin by five inches. I did this by making my hull deeper and keeping the cabin around the same height off the deck. I made the cabin around two feet longer and offset the center walkway. This allowed more room on one side for more comfortable seating. I made the gunnels in the cockpit flat so I can mount downriggers and brought them further aft so downriggers can be extended past swim platforms. I changed the hull design to try and make the boat less tender at rest. I tried to bring a deep V as far back as possible where the hull often meets waves at speeds just above plane. I rarely travel above my boats most efficient cruising speed. I bought a program to determine if a delta shaped pad would improve my cruise speed or efficiency but all it did was was increase the tendency of the boat to porpoise.

 

[REELCRAZY]

Agreed.
As this would then enable a more holistic point of view, rather than simple piecemeal comments.

I modified the original post to provide more information and hopefully the attachments are in a more sensible order.

 

[bajansailor]

I see that you have posted all the section drawings full size as well as the side profile and general arrangement - I don't think that the sections neccessarily have to be full size,as it then takes a while to scroll through everything.

I presume that you must have a lines plan, if you have sections?
If so, can you post a copy of it please?

I am modifying a stock plan from a boatbuilder to try and fit my needs better.

Which stock plan is this please? Can you post a link for reference?

Have you sketched a midship secton yet showing your proposed hull structure, and / or done a rough estimation of the weight of the boat, and compared it against the displacement at the load waterline?

Edit - an addition - I googled Mariner 777 and I see that this is your basis vessel that was built by Teknomar in Russia -
Facebook मा लगइन गर्नुहोस् https://ne-np.facebook.com/boatbuildingspb/posts/mariner-777-is-a-new-project-of-a-sports-fishing-boat-on-the-run-in-platform-of-/972417866667627/

They also have a website, but it seems to be a bit dodgy - when I clicked on it, it told me that the link is 'not secure'.
https://boatbuilding.ru/mariner777

 

[gonzo]

Have you consider a stabilizer like a Seakeeper 1? Otherwise, for high initial stability you need a wide beam, and for a soft ride on waves a narrow beam. Catamarans would probably fit the bill, but won't have the headroom.

 

[REELCRAZY]

The hull and superstructure alone no motor are around 2800 lbs. 100 gallons of fuel, lithium batteries, small 6000 btu inverter heat pump. Minn Kota Ulterra mounted on the bow. As embarrassing as it may seem I don't know what a line plan is.

 

[REELCRAZY]

Have you consider a stabilizer like a Seakeeper 1? Otherwise, for high initial stability you need a wide beam, and for a soft ride on waves a narrow beam. Catamarans would probably fit the bill, but won't have the headroom.

I don't have near the budget for a seakeeper.

 

[REELCRAZY]

Mariner 777 http://boatbuilding.ru/mariner777

 

[fallguy]

I like almost all of it and I am a fisherman.

The only critique beyond the 10" chine flats that gotta be shrunk, credits to @Ad Hoc is I am not a fan of the fishing steering plan. I hate it.

Can't lie. I'd ditch the concepts.

Disconnect the tie bar idea.

Drop the Minnkota steering. This boat is going to deal with windage differently and you'll be in a constant battle with a weather helm as planned due to the cabin.

The power of the kicker will drive the helm where it needs to go, but I can't see the electric trolling motor being anything less than a horrible chore that doesn't allow fishing; not to mention the bank to power it.

I'd spend the money instead of the electric on this setup.

Garmin Reactor™ 40 Kicker Autopilot | Small Gas Boats https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/635407