boating (marine) templates

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by rasorinc, Feb 14, 2012.

  1. rasorinc
    Joined: Nov 2007
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    rasorinc Senior Member

    Do you Designers and Naval Architects out there have a source for standardized templates showing boat heads, outboard engines, etc.? I have googled but find no simple plastic templates for boating stuff. Thanks much.
     
  2. hoytedow
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    Location: North of Cuba

    hoytedow Wood Butcher

  3. philSweet
    Joined: May 2008
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    Location: Beaufort, SC and H'ville, NC

    philSweet Senior Member

    I think some mfgs have little cad files you can use if you ask nice. There are a few on the uploads area of this forum. Nobody seems to do paper anymore. Everything drops in as a part file into CAD. I take a folding measure when I go to boat shows and I take a lot of pictures.
     
  4. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Most (I would think) use actual dimensioned PDF's from the vendor supplying the piece, be this a head, sink bowel, engine, tank, etc. Most will provide a scaled PDF, DXF (or other format) for the part in question. It's picked up, scaled appropriately and dropping in the drawing. Stock items may be house generated, such as cleats, winches, hatch handles, etc., each intended to represent a generic version of these elements.

    For hand drawn stuff, some templates can be used, but often aren't the right shape or more importantly aren't the right marine scale. These usually represent land based versions, which often are bigger then their marine counterparts. So, you end up taking short cuts, such as drawing a 10x14 ellipse for a head wash basin, with a 1.5" centered circle to represent the drain, with maybe another 1.5" circle to represent the faucet. Your hardware list spec's out the physical element, but the drawing just shows where it lives and that there's enough room around it to actually work.
     
  5. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    paper drawings find the engine manufacture and copy and paste then use a photo program to scale the size and then print and stick on your drawing
    Little bit of old and a little of new !! I am old school as well !! can draw quicker than doing it on the computer . :(
     
  6. Eric Sponberg
    Joined: Dec 2001
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    Eric Sponberg Senior Member

    I find I can draw more quickly in AutoCad now than doing it by hand. Over time as I have created new drawings, I have built up a collection of 2D views and outlines of hardware. Let's say I want to draw a toilet--I'll draw a little profile, plan, and end view somewhere in drawing space (usually to the upper right) and then I can copy one of those images to any place else on the drawing. I accummulate all sorts of stuff--anchors, cleats, people figures (I have realistic front and profile views of a 6' man and a 5'-7" woman, their names are Jack and Diane, after the John Mellancamp song), dinghies, outboard motors, etc., etc. These stay in the drawing file of the moment. When I do general arrangement drawings, I will have multiple views in orthogonal positions in the drawing file, so the plan view is physically above or below the profile view, and the end views are to one side or the other, all lined up with each other on frame stations, waterlines, centerlines. This way, I keep the proper position in all views with respect to each drawing by drawing temporary projection lines from view to view to line up every feature in each view.

    As I need to drop in equipment, I copy and paste my little equipment sketches into their proper positions. When I start working on a new project, I can save any drawing file to another name, and begin working on a new arrangement plan, for example, from the original arrangement plan, where all those nifty equipment sketch still are. As I progress on the new design, I will delete the stuff from the old design, but all my equipment sketches remain, and I continue to build on them. Say I have a Danforth anchor sketched in, but I want a plow or a Bruce anchor--I sketch that from dimensions or views from known sources (I trace over pdf files that I import temporarily into the drawing and scale appropriately) and then it becomes part of the archive. If I have a sketch of something in one drawing file, but not in the current one, I'll open up the other file and copy past the details into the current one. Copy and paste is one of the most powerful tools in computer drafting--I love it.

    I made and uploaded a pdf copy of a file I am working on now for the Globetrotter 66 for a client in California to show you what it looks like. This is only the central part of the file, there is more stuff elsewhere on the drawing.

    Eric
     

    Attached Files:

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  7. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I think we all do this Eric, though I find redrawing the vendor PDF's in a drawing program, rather the CAD much easier. I then import he converted file and drop it to scale. I "steal" equipment and hardware from previous jobs, which makes things easier, but initially, built the "library" as needed.
     

  8. JosephT
    Joined: Jun 2009
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    JosephT Senior Member

    With the exception of initial loft sketches, I work totally in 3D. For off-the-shelf vendor components (heads, sinks, pumps, outboards, etc.) I usually request a dumb solid or surface model, which is basically a 3D model showing the precise dimensions for a part. Yet it does not contain internal design features which are often proprietary. Many suppliers are happy to provide such dumb solid/surface models them for their products because they want you to be a future customer. If necessary a non-disclosure agreement is signed to protect intellectual property.

    In the end you have a nice collection of 3D vendor parts, which can be positioned as needed in your 3D boat/ship assembly. Also, I would also point out ergonomic checks are very important. You can obtain 3D human models too, which are very handy to check spatial requirements in areas with restricted space.

    The broader concept here is to design a 3D digital prototype to ensure all parts and humans fit 100% before you begin to waste money on tools & materials.
     
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