boat stuck in mould

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by whacker82, May 25, 2012.

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  1. whacker82
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    Location: ireland

    whacker82 Senior Member

    IT'S already got so its um be used. now how long to wait before applying the secondcoat of tooling gel? ANd how long to wait before glass over the tooling gel
     
  2. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    jUST ANSWERED EVERYTHING !!:confused:
     
  3. whacker82
    Joined: Sep 2011
    Posts: 146
    Likes: 2, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 33
    Location: ireland

    whacker82 Senior Member

    was on the phone internet, never came up. seen it on the labtop now
     
  4. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    YOU GOT SPRAYING GEL COAT OR BRUSHING GEL COAT ?? THERE IS A DIFFERANCE !!:eek:
     
  5. whacker82
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    Location: ireland

    whacker82 Senior Member

    I don't have The equipment to spray it on so I have to brush it on
     
  6. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    SO WHAT IS THE GEL COAT YOU HAVE SPRAYING OR BRUSHING !!!
    iTS SHOULD BE PRINTED ON THE LABLE SPRAYING OF BRUSHING :confused:
     
  7. whacker82
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    Location: ireland

    whacker82 Senior Member

    brushing
     
  8. Frosty

    Frosty Previous Member

    He said --brushing!!!!
     
  9. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    VERY GOOD ITS AMAZING HOW MANY PEOPLE DONT KNOW THERE ARE TWO DIFFERANT TYPES . I HAVE NOT SEEN BRUSHING GRADE FOR MANY A LONG YEAR . iT HAS A SLIGHTLY DIFFERANT FORMULATION , AND IS JUST A LITTLE THICKER VISCOSITY SO YOU CAN BRUSH AND IT STAYS WHERE YOU PUT IT .!! :p

    Dont forget because brushing gel is just that little bit thicker it takes longer to mix properly ,so use a paint stirer on a cordless or variable speed drill !!remeber you are not making whipped cream so dont beat air into the mix using high speed .
    You will tell later when you clean out your containers if its was mixed properly . remember pour the catalyst in the center of the pot !!
     
  10. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    Are you going to do a flang round the perimeter of the mould ??
    It would make the mould hold its shape a lot better and also save the edge ofthe mould .
    When you gel coat you can make sure the gel has just come over the edge onto the flange and this helps to hold the hull to the mould during the making of !!:p
     
  11. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    Have you had a look to try and find a pressure pot at all ?? junk shops most painters at some time or another had one or used one and might still have it laying about !! dont giv up looking . it could save you a few issues and creat a few more so !! :p:D:)
     
  12. whacker82
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    whacker82 Senior Member

    in time i will, just looking for a good clean release now. fingers crossed.
     
  13. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    Make sure the hull has the proper shape before you make a mold from it. No sags from bow to stern and very important that there is no twist. Most important is that there is no negative draft, slanting surfaces that would lock a new mold on the hull or the new hull in the new mold. I doubt there are any since the whole design has been used before, but its possible you may have introduced some when re sanding the hull getting it ready for the mold. A photo shot straight at the transom showing the profile of the aft end of that skeg might be useful, and any other areas where negative draft may occur. In some photos you've posted it looks like there might be some tumblehome, but that is probably an illusion.

    The flange as tunnels suggests will add strength around the gunnel edge. That is another area on the hull to be sure both sides are the same before making the mold, you don't want one gunnel of a nice rounded, fair shape and the other one squashed in a little or the fairness wavy or something.

    You also want the top (gunnel) edge of the mold to be straight or fair or whatever the case may be so when the new hull is laminated and it reaches the (green) stage, a leathery stage where it can be cut with a razor knife without messing up the lamination, you can slice the extra overhanging glass off in a few minutes without any dust as compared to taking a half hour to saw it off creating a dusty mess.

    Don't use any waxed resins or gelcoats to make the mold. Keep the temperatures at a reasonable level day and night until it's done and set for a few days. Resin rich laminations of mat are fine for a mold. Make it thick and sturdy so it won't deform, laminate stiffeners onto it in the end to help with strength. Also make (laminate on/in) provisions for setting the mold solidly on sawhorses or better yet for rotating the mold so you can rotate it up sideways and do one side, then rotate it the other way and do the other side. Either way, get it set solidly at a working height, having it rolling around on the floor is no good.

    Here is one thread on moldmaking, search for others as I said before, looking mostly in the 'fiberglass boatbuilding' section and looking at the bottom of every thread for a list of 'similar threads'.
    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/fi...ilding/first-layer-making-new-mold-41703.html


    .
     
  14. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    Progress Report ?

    After all the silence means one thing !! you have waxed , pva'ed and gelcoated and into the glassing !! yes ??
    good luck with everything . I hope you fitted a flang round the top edge of your mould and waxed and pva released what ever you made it from !!
    Good luck and hope fore a smooth run all way through . just take your time .
    Everyone is waiting !! . ;):p:):D:p
     

  15. whacker82
    Joined: Sep 2011
    Posts: 146
    Likes: 2, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 33
    Location: ireland

    whacker82 Senior Member

    yes all done, first coat of tooling gel gone in, but ive ran out of gel so tue before i get some more to do the second layer
     
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