SamSam
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Can you post that photo and the one of the solid molds?
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Boat building help
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SamSam
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OK, that helps. The picture of the mold shows them solid, except for frame 5. That's right behind the seat and behind the guy when he's shown holding the boat. So 5 is cut as shown in drawing 2, and stays in the finished boat for strength and to support the coaming, which is the narrow deck that runs along the sides. The limber hole at the keel lets water drain through frame 5.
The transom mold also stays in the finished boat, you can see it and frame 5 are attached to the strong back with temporary legs that hold them in place. They are cut off at the sheer line.
All the other molds, 1,2,3,4,6,7 and the stem piece are cut off at the base line. That means when they are set on the strong back, the strong back will be the base line so the molds are automatically set at the right height to get the right curve to the keel line. So that's why you should figure out the table of offsets.
On the molds there is a hole labeled 'alignment hole'. That is so you can stretch a string from the transom to the stem/bow and line up all the molds side to side (on their centerline) so they are in a straight line.
The stem/bow attaches perpendicular to the #1 mold and the strong back. In the table of offsets it shows 3 height measurements for the stem, but there are 4. Since it is flush with mold 1 at the keel, the keel measurement on the stem is 19-2 and then the rest are as shown, 13-4, 6-4 and 2-4. The other measurements for the stem are forward from mold 1 and are shown at the bottom of the table. The S is 18-6, the U is 18-2, etc.
The measured points on the molds were connected by drawing lines between the points with a straight edge, but the stem mold is curved so you have to draw the lines differently. Once you get the measured points (+) marked on the plywood, at each point you drive in a small nail leaving it straight up from the ply an inch or so. Then you get a strip of thin wood or plastic, something that will bend evenly and smoothly around the nails and then mark the curved line.
Did you get the drawings from the book?
There is hardly anything I can read on them, but I can tell there is a lot of information there.
I think all you need to know to make the boat is in the drawings and the book. It would be good if all of it was posted and readable, the drawings and the written book section and photos, but there might be copyright issues with that, I don't know. There might be anyway with just the drawings posted, but again, I don't know.
The transom mold also stays in the finished boat, you can see it and frame 5 are attached to the strong back with temporary legs that hold them in place. They are cut off at the sheer line.
All the other molds, 1,2,3,4,6,7 and the stem piece are cut off at the base line. That means when they are set on the strong back, the strong back will be the base line so the molds are automatically set at the right height to get the right curve to the keel line. So that's why you should figure out the table of offsets.
On the molds there is a hole labeled 'alignment hole'. That is so you can stretch a string from the transom to the stem/bow and line up all the molds side to side (on their centerline) so they are in a straight line.
The stem/bow attaches perpendicular to the #1 mold and the strong back. In the table of offsets it shows 3 height measurements for the stem, but there are 4. Since it is flush with mold 1 at the keel, the keel measurement on the stem is 19-2 and then the rest are as shown, 13-4, 6-4 and 2-4. The other measurements for the stem are forward from mold 1 and are shown at the bottom of the table. The S is 18-6, the U is 18-2, etc.
The measured points on the molds were connected by drawing lines between the points with a straight edge, but the stem mold is curved so you have to draw the lines differently. Once you get the measured points (+) marked on the plywood, at each point you drive in a small nail leaving it straight up from the ply an inch or so. Then you get a strip of thin wood or plastic, something that will bend evenly and smoothly around the nails and then mark the curved line.
Did you get the drawings from the book?
There is hardly anything I can read on them, but I can tell there is a lot of information there.
I think all you need to know to make the boat is in the drawings and the book. It would be good if all of it was posted and readable, the drawings and the written book section and photos, but there might be copyright issues with that, I don't know. There might be anyway with just the drawings posted, but again, I don't know.
I hate to sound like a jerk but I don't think I will have a problem posting the section of the book on here because 1 I bought the book, 2 it was last copyrighted in 199X(I forgot the exact date), and 3 the guy that wrote it is supposedly dead so I would think that copyright would disappear.
"Did you get the drawings from the book?"
Yep pretty much, the only thing I didn't get from the book were the mold drawings, I did that. I can try to post the pictures of the book with a better camera but it is a really good camera, so each pic will come out to be about 2000 kb in size.
"Did you get the drawings from the book?"
Yep pretty much, the only thing I didn't get from the book were the mold drawings, I did that. I can try to post the pictures of the book with a better camera but it is a really good camera, so each pic will come out to be about 2000 kb in size.
As a general rule, for works created after January 1, 1978, copyright protection lasts for the life of the author plus an additional 70 years. For an anonymous work, a pseudonymous work, or a work made for hire, the copyright endures for a term of 95 years from the year of its first publication or a term of 120 years from the year of its creation, whichever expires first. For works first published prior to 1978, the term will vary depending on several factors - http://www.copyright.gov/title17/92chap3.html
Ok guys, I have an update on what is going on. Right now I am working on the scale model molds which I keep screwing up 
. It will take maybe another day or two to make the actual 3D mold. Just keep in mind this is my first scale model thing I have done before.
. It will take maybe another day or two to make the actual 3D mold. Just keep in mind this is my first scale model thing I have done before.
hoytedow
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No, I meant what went wrong with it? It looks like a lot of fun though.
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