birdsmouth oars

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by txriverrat, Jun 28, 2012.

  1. upchurchmr
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    upchurchmr Senior Member

    Ron,

    Have you made your own yak? What kind of a boat for the oars?

    Marc
     
  2. txriverrat
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    txriverrat Senior Member

    I have built 16 yaks .
    I injured my shoulder so I built a small pontoon boat that these oars will be used for.
    I am also kicking around building a drop in sliding rowing unit into my North Wind ,a 17ft 2 inch boat I built .
    I like to build
    Ron
     
  3. hoytedow
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    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

  4. upchurchmr
    Joined: Feb 2011
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    upchurchmr Senior Member

    Ron,

    I built a catamaran row boat - sliding feet actually (2 of them actually). Might be very similar to your pontoon row boat. Mine were 11' to fit in the back of my pickup - full sized Toyota. The sliding feet or rigger was necessary to not bury the bows since the hulls were very fine. It works very well and might be something you could easily built for your boats. Mine are not drop in, but.....

    See the picture and a description here http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?128282-Skinny-Light-Rowboat&highlight=fast rowboat in post #47.

    Do you have any pictures?
     
  5. hoytedow
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    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

    I found this formula for determining the right size oars for the boat. http://www.ehow.com/how_6781871_figure-size-oars-need-boat.html
     
  6. txriverrat
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    txriverrat Senior Member

    Thanks Hoyt that is a good read.
    Ron
     
  7. johneck
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    johneck Senior Member

    Due to the angle problem, there is very little good contact surface area between the wood parts. Adding the plugs will help, but the outer part will still be subject to stresses that will tend to split the joints, then the plugs will brak loose and not help anymore. The idea of wrapping the outside with fiberglass cloth would be a better option, but now you probably have really heavy oars already. Try them and keep an eye on the joints, especially near the attachment of the handles and the blade and don't go too far from home for awhile.
     
  8. ancient kayaker
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    ancient kayaker aka Terry Haines

    It's OK to use them in safe conditions to try out the method I wouldn't trust them too far from shore. The mechanical advantage from bending a bunch of strips, converted into shear force is huge. Well-epoxied plugs in the ends might help react some of the shear forces though.
     
  9. txriverrat
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    txriverrat Senior Member

    Fillets run on paddle blade.

    [​IMG]

    a lot of sanding and then a precoat of epoxy.

    [​IMG]

    There starting to look like some thing now and still plenty light.
    Ron
     
  10. txriverrat
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    txriverrat Senior Member

    I put cloth and epoxy on the blades and 6 inches up the shaft. then wrapped the wear points with rope and made stops for oar locks and installed them

    [​IMG]

    put on another coat of epoxy and then spar varnish, they are still plenty light.
    I will be ready to try them before long.
    Ron
     
  11. ancient kayaker
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    ancient kayaker aka Terry Haines

    I don't have much experience with oars as compared with paddles but if you find they are so light that there isn't enough weight to sink the blades, you can always add a little ballast or metal tip reinforcement . . .
     
  12. thudpucker
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    thudpucker Senior Member

    I like your idea and your attitude. Keep on going. You could lose some time n' Material, but learning about wood, finishing, etc is worth if if you have the time.
    I've been thinking about building some Oars for three years now.
    So I'm glad to see your doing something about your thinking.
     
  13. hoytedow
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    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

    I am feeling inspired by this thread to build paddles now as I gave my daughter both paddles with the canoe.
     
  14. txriverrat
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    txriverrat Senior Member

    First let me say I appreciate all the comments and criticizem on these oars. I have learned a lot building them and had fun doing it, also did some things to pull a mistake out of the fire. glue coated the inside of the paddle, wooden plugs glued in at intervals solid plugs glued in each end , fiberglass cloth wrapping blades and six inches up the shaft , rope wrap and a wooden stop around the shaft for wear but added strength also and then covered with epoxy.. I sure may be wrong but I think it will hold up ok and what I learned will sure help me on the next ones.
    I have several thousand river miles paddling yaks and canoes ,single and double blade, I have a little expertise with those paddles. I have never had a set of oars in my hands so this whole thing is a learning experience . I do apreciate any advice as I learn the roapes with the oars.
    Ron
    On a side note if they dont work they did turn out looking good enough that my girl friend is trying to steal them to hang on the wall for decoration. so I cant loose
     

  15. ancient kayaker
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    ancient kayaker aka Terry Haines

    You can't go wrong with crossed oars and a rebel flag on the wall over the beer 'fridge!
     
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