Bilge keels for 48’ steel displacement F/V

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by FishermanTravis, Oct 16, 2024.

  1. FishermanTravis
    Joined: Aug 2023
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    Location: Northern CA

    FishermanTravis New Member

    Hi everyone,
    I am hoping someone can offer advice on the most effective angle and how to choose the attachment point of bilge keels. I will be installing these myself on a 48 foot steel vessel. Beam is 13’6” and draft 6.5 feet. The vessel has a very round chine like a wine barrel and has a very active roll motion. I have two bilge keels that were already made for something else. They are 12 feet long and 18 inches wide.
    Is there a rule of thumb for the angle of attachment for most effectiveness? Also what is the best way to lay them out for the least resistance to forward motion? I’ve heard parallel to the keel and also parallel to the waterline, but the shape of the hull would make them have a curve if measured that way Thanks
     

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  2. comfisherman
    Joined: Apr 2009
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    Location: Alaska

    comfisherman Senior Member

    Favorite postion for the ones we've placed have been, as wide as possible but tucked under enough that they don't catch pots or pilings. Fair amount of folks try and figure out the best layout to also not heavily catch travel lift straps.... not sure what's best as it's a least worst kinda deal.

    We've always done parallel to keel with a 3 axis laser to mark the hull.
     
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  3. TANSL
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    TANSL Senior Member

    Well, in my opinion, that is not a good practice.
    In everything else I agree with you.
     
  4. FishermanTravis
    Joined: Aug 2023
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    Location: Northern CA

    FishermanTravis New Member

    what would you suggest?
    I do imagine the front ends of the chocks would be wide and scoop water if parallel to keel, unless they started back where the beam was widest. I can also imagine the same effect though opposite with the suggestion to parallel the waterline. Maybe the answer is to split the difference….
     
  5. comfisherman
    Joined: Apr 2009
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    comfisherman Senior Member

    The laser replaced "just eyeballing it" and is a pretty easy way to mark left right symmetry after tracing the hull out with a floating head level. Then lock the laser and transcribe whatever alignment looks like it works. Usually we then would make a jig on the line out of thin cut ply strips hot glued together. From there we'd do the final tweaks and test fit. Then use the jigs to cut the plate before tacking together and test fit. Prior to that we did a similar setup with a bucket full of plumb bobs.

    Years ago the trend was shallower and longer that followed the hull contours. Seems like the last decade has had shorter but deeper versions.
     
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  6. TANSL
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    TANSL Senior Member

    The bilge keel, which should be approximately 2/3 of the length, is usually placed (as I have always done on large boats) so that it more or less follows the lines of water flow through the submerged hull. I know that it is not possible to know the shape of these lines well, unless tests are carried out in a tank test, but a sufficient approximation can be obtained.
     
  7. Tad
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    Tad Boat Designer


  8. FishermanTravis
    Joined: Aug 2023
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    Location: Northern CA

    FishermanTravis New Member

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