Is this good for the transom now?

Hi,

I recently aquired this 1959 Glass Craft Sportster. The wooden transom was rotten so I removed it along with all the wood on the back. Now I just have the hull sides and bottom. I used my grinder today on the back but there is still some resin left from before. In the picture it is shown. Can I go ahead and put the new transom in? If I grind anymore, it will get too thin.

I had planned on epoxying in the transom, then use bi-axial fiberglass on the sides and bottom on the inside and outside. Then fiberglass a couple frames on the inside to help support it. Does this sound acceptable? I want to put a 50 or 60 on the transom. It will be 2 laminates of 3/4" marine ply.

Thanks

Warren

 

There are many previous threads on this subject. Much information, techniques and material recommendations can be gathered with a search or three.

It's too bad you cut away the corners of the hull shell, where the transom meets the hull. I usually leave them in place to save effort and material. In any case you have to really grind back the edges of all your mating surfaces. I usually remove 3/4 of the existing laminate in these locations, so I have room for tabbing and fairing smooth without humps at the transitions from old to new. This is beveled back to good material on a very gentle slope, say around 4" or better.

Don't both with biax, just use E or S 'glass. Looking at your photos, you have a lot more grinding to do and a hole that needs tending on the port side.

You'd also be best advised to remove the deck cap, so the transom and tabbing can support the full height of the hull shell, not just what is exposed under the deck cap. You may not have to remove the cap, it could be lifted clear of the transom area with the bow still in place, though a bit more troublesome to work around.

You could save some money and use polyester on this project, the rest of the boat is made of it. The laminate thickness should be 3/16" or more, and should be made of several layers of lighter fabric, then a single or double layer of thick.

I'd also strongly advise installing a sealed splash well, which will seve to reinforce the transom and prevent a following sea from boarding the boat over the transom cutout. Plywood, well sealed and tabbed will serve for this.

I wouldn't over power that old girl, stick with 50 HP or less (it was rated at 45 HP). The transom and some other repairs may well be made, but you have no idea what condition the remaining laminate or underlying wooden elements are in. Testing them to failure, father from shore then you can swim back too, because you wanted an extra 5 MPH out of her, doesn't seem wise. She'll be plenty fast with a 40 HP and only a few MPH faster with a 50.

 

Thanks for your info. I did not remove any of the hull - only the transom wood which had to be completely removed because it was allo bad right up the the edges. I do plan on grinding down some more but "m just worried about it getting too thin and weak on the edge. I guess the epoxy I plan to use will make it completely strong again. I have some PoxyGrip from glen-l.com that I have used before and it is STRONG!

The sealed splash well is the way to go like you said. I thought bi-axial is stronger that the others?

I've been told to stay around a 45 size motor so thats probably what I'll do.

Back to sanding and griding!

Warren

 

I'll suggest something you might do at this point. Make a cradle for the hull just ahead of the transom (6") and ensure by a folded template that it is symmetrical. Removing the corners has taken quite a bit of structure away, and now is the time, before adding any pieces, to maintain the shape accurately. I would even suggest screwing the boat from above into the cradle with sheetrock screws. The holes can be filled later, but at least you can work knowing all is lined up.

Alan

 

I believe I mentioned internal bracing and a trailer or cradle in a previous thread, where he was trying to find out what he had.

It's possible the deck cap has held the topsides reasonably close to where they belong, but the deed is done now, so it'll be a guess as to the actual location of the side of the boat as designed.

Warren, do your self a favor and do the steps is a logical order. First order of business is proper support. Get it off the ground and stable. A trailer or cradle will do. The cradle needs be little more then a handful of 2x4's and some screws. Make it high enough so you can work under it and around it comfortably and that the boat will not move. Of course, the repair areas should remain clear of supports, say about a foot. Brace the topsides (the boat's flanks) so they can't flex or distort. Again, 2x4's will work fine, just a few screws to dog them down solid, right through the boat. You have plenty of holes to patch, a few more can't kill you.

Glen-L sells repackaged epoxy and I'm not sure what brand. Their Epoxy Grip sounds like it's designed as an adhesive, probably with substantial filler. You want a laminating resin, which will serve you completely. You can make adhesive, fill, fairing compound, laminate fabric, etc. with this type of epoxy. I'm not sure what you can do with that particular Glen-L product.

Yes, you want to feather the old 'glass back and it will dramatically weaken it. You'll be replacing that material with new laminate, so don't worry. Epoxy, fabric and paint will fix anything on your little boat.

You can use biax, but it's not necessary, nor worth it. Save some bucks and use conventional fabrics and methods. Also poke around at those other areas on the inside bottom for rotten wood. As I mentioned before, it's very likely all the wooden components are spent and need to be replaced. An ice pick is a good tool for this type of investigation.