Below Water Seams On Wooden Boat

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by 64centuryhelp, Jan 29, 2006.

  1. 64centuryhelp
    Joined: Jan 2006
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    Location: Illinois

    64centuryhelp New Member

    I have a 1964 Century Resorter. I am currently restoring it and have run into a problem. The caulk on the bottom below the water line is falling out and I am not sure what to replace it with. The boat spends most of its time on the trailer. It is rarely in the water. Is there a product that you recommend to fill the seams? The gaps are 1/16th to 3/16th of an inch. I am afraid that swelling will not solve my problem.
     
  2. wdnboatbuilder
    Joined: Nov 2005
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    Location: Cape Coral Fl

    wdnboatbuilder Senior Member

    I can not believe PAR has not seen this yet. Gonzo maybe some help to you also, these are all members of this forum and have a great amount of info.
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I saw it Bruce, but my only experience is with a 1967 Resorter, which had a double planked plywood bottom.

    I'm concerned with the larger gaps, plywood doesn't move that much, making me think something else is going on (fasteners getting loose, relaxed framing, trailer sickness, etc.)

    In direct answer to the goo in the seam question, use a polysulfide like 3M 101 or similar. I wouldn't use 3M 5200 or other polyurethane. I believe the factory used a piece of cotton in the garboard seam before the sealant went in.
     
  4. BUSBO
    Joined: Feb 2006
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    Location: Oxford.G.B.

    BUSBO Junior Member

    Underwater.

    Appart from sussing any unwanted movement;loose or cracked stuff;caulking with cotton soaked in putty&paint.Plywood strip fillets?
    I'm no expert and have no idea what the boat is,but heres some stuff I used on a 1" oak planked Walton narrow boat.
     
  5. Oyster
    Joined: Feb 2006
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    Location: eastern United States

    Oyster Senior Member

    This shows H2Only hull which he lists as 1964 Century Resorter.

    http://boatdesign.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10155

    Shown on this hull is longitual planking and battern seamed construction. If indeed this is the same hull that you have here, then and do not wish to replace the caulk, then there are some alternatives here. In the past, simple old timey window putty, mixed with bottom paint has been used, and can be removed later if you need to, too.
    There is an Interlux seam compound that is used over cottom caulk on hulls. .

    [​IMG]

    If you can locate Dolphinite Bedding compound, then you can use this product. Have you checked the conditioning of the fasteners? Begin with these examples, but use some of whatever you choose, and the apply a sample to scrap pieces, applying your top finish over it, learning the cure time for painting over it, if this will be a trailable boat. You want to make sure that you do not end up with uncured seam compound and paint and load and unload the boat from the trailer. The stuff will rub off, and pull out, and you will be worse off. Report back on your access of any of these products, and when all else fails, there is a mix that you can make up yourself with hardware store materials, too.




    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  6. BUSBO
    Joined: Feb 2006
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    Location: Oxford.G.B.

    BUSBO Junior Member

    Your problem seems to be,that the wood won't get the chance to swell.I suggest clearing out all caulking,then once really clean;applying a flat bede of High Modulus Silicone Sealant 1/16"thick to the bottom of the groove only.After this caulk with some compatible mixture to the finnished surface coating.
     
  7. Oyster
    Joined: Feb 2006
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    Location: eastern United States

    Oyster Senior Member

    There is a difference in caulking and corking. Sometimes folks can get these two terms mixed up. But not knowing what is presently falling out, anyone recommending silicone for anything to seal wooden planks up makes me shiver, period. I think this is a general consensous for most folks and has stood the test of time remaining true to form that silicone belongs no where close to wooden bottoms.

    Here is a picture of a corked plank. Even with this method, some people will place caulk on top of the cotton which is normally used for corking.

    This is a serious restoration project for your viewing pleasure that deals with such an issue.
    http://www.kettenburgboats.com/yard6pics10.htm

    [​IMG]
     
  8. BUSBO
    Joined: Feb 2006
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    Location: Oxford.G.B.

    BUSBO Junior Member

    Silicone sealant :nightmare. Indeed not enough info. on project.What falls out can explain a lot. Fair condition:usualy one finds woodlice,ranging thro-earwigs,worms,centerpedes,to beatles boring holes at worst,as they bore through good wood.These beasts can be pointers as to the condition of the wood and presence of rot.
    High modulus silicone (Silicone corking...no Shiver me timbers! certainly not a corker!) Any mixes?
     

  9. H2Only
    Joined: Nov 2005
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    Location: PostFalls,ID

    H2Only Junior Member

    I am currently in the process of "refreshing" a 64 Resorter. This boat too needed attention to the hull below the waterline. Since this boat is going to be trailered most of it's life also, we decided to glass the hull below the waterline and bottom paint.
     
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