sterndrive installation help

Hey Guys looking for the inside tip on drive installation.

I've owned and worked on outdrives for years, and one aspect of the whole beast still eludes me.

That is sliding the drive shaft into the engine coupler easily and on the first try.

OK back ground, I've removed repowered and replaced my motor many times
(currently with a new Volvo-penta 5.7 gxi and duoprop drive). each time the biggest challenge was getting the drive back on. Almost all of those time alignment wasn't an issue cause the motor mount position didn't change.
But I own an alignment tool and have always checked just to be sure (especially after it doesn't go right on.)

I have never had an an alignment problem, and yet this foolish thing always wins our battles.

This time it's a brand new install, and alignment seems to be dead on. (tool slides in completely and with ease). But the drive seems to stop just as it hits the coupler, (I say this cause the alignment tool has a multi tiered surface and the distance between the drive and transom shield is exactly the same as the last detent on the tool).

So Help please, any hints or experinces may help.


Thanks.

 

I just went through my first sterndrive installation so I am nowhere as experienced as you. Mine was Mercruiser... 6.2L/Bravo I.

My thoughts are that if the alignment tool fits, the drive shaft should as well. One difference is the spline... both the internal part in the coupler and the external part on the shaft. I had a problem of not being able to get my alignment tool into the engine (engine hanging on the hoist) until I got rid of a burr on the coupler.. I assume that you didn't have the chance to slide the shaft into the engine before the installation.

If this sounds at all reasonable, you might try an old coupler on the new shaft, outside and clear alignment requirements to see it that fits... Fitting an old shaft into the new engine would be also a good idea if you had one..

Hope this might help... no one else seemed to have an idea.

Bill

 

If this is a 1th time install, the O-ring around the shaft is very reluctant to slide into the gimbal bearing because it is new. A liberal coat of grease and two guys pushing should do the trick.
I once had to replace the O-rings with old ones because those from the seal kit bag were too thick. The engine manufacturer purchases such items from various suppliers: my seal kit bag said 'made in China'.

 

grease the splines ansd get someone to rock crank

 

update on frustration

well, I've since found out that the alignment tool that was lent to me from the volvo engine people is only half the tool.The handle half, but it's the right diameter to engage the coupler, the omc tool fits both the gimbal bearing and the coupler, but only two inches of the coupler when butted up against the last detent on the tool.

Very long story short, I've tried some alignment adjustments to improve my position. (with the long volvo tool all the way in the coupler, it appeared as if I could use some clearence on the bottom of the gimbal, which mean engine mounts down, multiple attempts, very little change). Used the omc tool to adjust the gimbal till the tool was dead center in the 4 inch bellows hole.
the vovlo tool is now dead center of the gimbal bearing hole.

I know I have engagement of the coupler, just can't get by those o-rings, the studs for mounting are just starting to enter there holes.

What a pain in the arse.

Thanks for the replies

The battle continues

 

wtf

I'd swear that the rear mounts (which have no adjustment) have the coupler sitting too low. I've tried just about everything and still no dice. The omc tool should do the trick, I was able to get that to slide a little further in, But still not all the way in, what I thought was all the way wasn't (big surprise there)!
It turns out that the tool will slide all the into the coupler if alignment will allow.

Has anyone had to shim under the rear motor to obtain alignment? I can see if it was to compensate for wear but on a brand new engine, seems unlikely.

BTW, the rear mount are idiot proof (even for me) the mounts them selves are installs with 2 bolts directly to the transom shield, then the rear of the motor sit directly on them 2 washers and 2 nuts. no adjustment no missing parts no f____king workie!!


thanks

 

If I remember correctly, there are also 2 peculiar spring washers, approx 3/8" high, between engine and gimbal housing. The soft washer and the steel one are on top, under the bolt head.