Bellboy floor, transom rebuild.

Rebuilding the floor and transom on this bellboy. Ready to install transom but wondering if the previous 1.5” thick transom and two sheets of mat is stout enough for a 150hp outboard on a full engine pod? I am putting an 125hp mercury outboard on it, but want it stoutenough in case I upgrade . Any experience with this out there?

 

Pretty much made up my mind to use 3/4” 1/2” 3/4” glued with titebond111 glue .

 

Titebond is not a great glue for this application.
You need something with more body that can be applied with a notched trowel, epoxy putty made with with cabosil is my favorite, but there are marine adhesives that will work well too.
Even at that, I’d precoat the plywood with epoxy and laminate layers of fiberglass fabric between the plywood sheets, it will create an incredibly strong sandwich.

 

Was thinking glue to prefab it but I could do the same thing with my polyester resin and cloth .

 

Polyester is difficult to use on large panels without using production tools, it doesn’t give enough working time to accomplish all the necessary tasks before it kicks. It forces you to hurry, and that’s when you’ll make mistakes.
The higher initial cost of epoxy will pay for itself in the long run.

 

Just epoxy and no glass in the joint lines would be my choice.I can't say I'm impressed with the installation of that much power on a bolt on structure and even if switching to a transom mount,consider a couple of webs to the hull to resist the thrust at the bottom edge of the mounting bracket of the motor.Those stringers might be a bit of a hint for a good location

 

I've rebuilt transoms before using polyester resin and mat and never had a problem. And will have at least two knee braces between the two outside stringers and the transom, also creating three separate storage areas for Batteries, fuel tank and misc..

 

I was reading your previous post as a plan to use polyester and glass to bond the plywood together and this is something I wouldn't recommend.Bonding the plywood together ought to be done with a water resistant glue,epoxy being the most durable and tolerant of gaps.Once a slab has been bonded to the transom,I would completely agree with using polyester and glass to
laminate over it.

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but as a new member it looks like I can't start one or private message anyone...

RRanger: I'm curious about the Bellboy project you did and how it turned out. I have a 1971 19ft Bellboy w/ the removable hardtop that I'm considering doing something similar with. It's time to replace the floors and I'm considering just doing the transom while I'm at it and converting from I/O (original OMC Stringer/Buick 155hp) since parts are getting harder to find. I've got a connection for a used Yamaha 115 4-stroke that might be a good fit, but it's a 20" shaft. I'm looking at a basic motor pod/bracket from vikingboatbrackets.com to keep weight (and cost) down.

Any advice you guys have would be welcome. I've attached a couple pictures of a similar boat (not mine) for reference. I'm worried that a 20" shaft would put the motor too low in relation to the waterline but I could be wrong.

And please let me know if I'm missing something about being able to start a new thread.
Thanks in advance!
Chris

 

Chris I stopped the Reno when I was going to have to replace the wood on the top of all the stringers. Sides of stringers were fibreglass but top of them was wood and it needed to be replaced to hold screws for the floor and something that had to be done. I didn’t want the extra work of cutting them all out and replacing the wood. Live and learn.
If it was me I’d want a 25” outboard but I won’t pretend to have all the answers and there are probably others on here that can answer 20” or 25” for a pod on a I/O boat from experience. Bay Manufacturing, baymfg.com make leg extension kits for most outboards they might be able to help Yu if it works for you. A lot of work and good luck.

 

Thanks for the reply! I’ll see what I find once I get the floor up.