barge

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by farmer2, Dec 11, 2016.

  1. farmer2
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: texarkana

    farmer2 Junior Member

    I am new to side and have question? I have farm and red river cut it in half at 2015 flood trying to find way to get across no stabilty on bank just sand
    and 100 yards across. Was thinking about a barge big enough to hold tractors and equipment and has to hold 40 tons. thinking of 20x40x5 or so.
    Anybody have plans to built myself what is material cost and what angle iron to use spacing and so! looked ant some used ones and they were heavy 15 inches in water empty is that normal? problem is red river is shallow in summer and high in spring . also was thinking of one inch cable across to pull itself across like cable ferry .
    any thought would be helpful !
     
  2. The Q
    Joined: Feb 2014
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    Location: Norfolk, UK

    The Q Senior Member

    I can't answer many of your questions but 40 tons on a pontoon 20ft by 40 would roughly have a draft of 1 foot 10 inches. Before adding the not inconsiderable weight of the barge itself. You haven't said what material you are intending to build the barge from but if you are intending to use angle iron in it I'd assume steel. You will need a vastly larger barge to carry that weight in a shallow draft situation.
    What sort of draft were you intending?
     
  3. kapnD
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    kapnD Senior Member

    google Myark Barges
     
  4. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    SamSam Senior Member

    A flat bottom barge hull (not pontoons) 20x40 feet would float 2 tons per inch. Your 40 ton load itself would submerge it 20 inches. In addition, however much the barge weighs would submerge it one inch per 2 tons. If the barge weighed 10 tons, just a wild guess, that would be another 5 inches for a total of 25 inches. That would be for a perfectly level barge, if more weight was on one end than the other, that end would be deeper and the other end shallower.

    I think there would be legal problems having a cable strung across a river, but if it isn't "navigatable" in the Coast Guard sense, maybe not. You might have social/legal type problems though if someone hits it while cruising by as it can cause a lot of damage to a boat and motor and people too.
     
  5. farmer2
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: texarkana

    farmer2 Junior Member

    barge design

    thanks for your inputs and does anybody have plans to built myself how to built structure inside distance angle iron thickness and so!
     
  6. farmer2
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: texarkana

    farmer2 Junior Member

    There is not much traffic except a few fishing boats ! I plan to have cable to go down in water for it to be passable ! I would really appreciate somebody with experience who has build barge 20x 40 or close ! Don't now should I built 2 10X40 or 20x 40 I am thinking to save on steel with one unit!
     
  7. fredrosse
    Joined: Jan 2005
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    Location: Philadelphia PA

    fredrosse USACE Steam

    Look at internet sales for used barges. These are plentiful, and much cheaper than you could find with a self-build project. They come in all sizes and conditions.
     
  8. TANSL
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    Location: Spain

    TANSL Senior Member

    If you do not find anything second-hand that suits you (for me this would be the first option), I could, probably, help in scantlings calculation and construction plans of the structure. Could you send me more information via e.mail?.
     
  9. Angélique
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Belgium ⇄ The Netherlands

    Angélique aka Angel (only by name)

    -
    - Maritime Sales ---> Barges for Sale ---> Look for your region and the kind of barge you want, two examples below:

    - JUS10: 2-Sectional Truckable Barge - ( Note, from 2nd above link, asking price: ‘‘US $ 83,400 Both’’ not each ! )

    - HBG10: Self-propelled Causeway Ferry Barge - MCS type

     
  10. Angélique
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    Location: Belgium ⇄ The Netherlands

    Angélique aka Angel (only by name)

  11. Angélique
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    Location: Belgium ⇄ The Netherlands

    Angélique aka Angel (only by name)

    -
    Re post #9:

    That capacity of 60 tons of the first barge kept me wondering, a quick calculation learned that the deck would be just about submerged at 60 tons, as the draft would be 3' then, that is if those are 60 metric tons . . :confused:

    Would someone used to imperial units please look at it ?
     
  12. rwatson
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    rwatson Senior Member

    1 Metric tonne = 1.01 Imperial ton, so there is not much difference.

    36ft = ~11 metres
    12ft = ~ 3.6 metres
    3fy depth = ~ 1 metre

    = 35 cubic metres, or 35 tonne

    so no way can it be a 60 ton barge.
     
  13. rwatson
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    rwatson Senior Member

    Attached Files:

  14. JamesG123
    Joined: Mar 2015
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    Location: Columbus, GA

    JamesG123 Senior Member

    Vs. the cost of the fuel to just keep driving around to the other bank. $80K will buy a lot of diesel...
     

  15. Angélique
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Belgium ⇄ The Netherlands

    Angélique aka Angel (only by name)

    -
    There's my mistake, I've just looked at my notepad and saw that (mistaken by the specified 60 tons capacity) I've used 60' for length, hence I came to the 60 tons for 3' of draft. :eek:

    So anew:

    L = 36 feet = 10.9728 meters
    B = 12 feet = 3.6576 meters
    D = 3 feet = 0.9144 meters
    1 imperial ton = 1.01604691 metric tons
    1 metric ton = 0.984206528 imperial tons​

    L 10.9728 m x B 3.6576 m x D 0.9144 m = 36.699 m³ = 36.699 metric tons = 36.119 imperial tons = 1 imperial ton total weight per feet length to submerge this barge.

    Thus when the total weight (barge's own weight + payload) is 36 imperial tons then the deck is level with the water surface, and the barge is about to sink, if not capsized by some uneven load already. :(

    So, what would be the Max Safe Workload for this barge ?
     
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