anyone mess with 3D printed Titanium?

Squidly-Diddly

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I've heard its "$450/lb" which might be a bargain for a few small parts and since Titanium is pretty light.

Is 3D printed Titanium "real Titanium" at least nearly equal to what it would be in machined out of a block?

What about other 3D printed metals, in general? Can they print metals OVER other 3D printed metals (or other), like if I wanted something in existing steel could they "paint" it with a 1/8" of aluminum, or brass or chrome or Vice-Versa? Could I take a big cheap lightweight aluminum cleat and have it coated in brass so I look richer than I am? :)
 
Yes I have; no it isn't; yes you can but you will have other issues.

EDIT to Add; As I can't go into a lot of detail, just remember that 3d printing is additive, then the print "matrix" must be sintered, leaving behind a porous body. Do a quick search study.
 
"Painting" metal over metal is called plating. It has been around since 1805.
 
Yes I have; no it isn't; yes you can but you will have other issues.

EDIT to Add; As I can't go into a lot of detail, just remember that 3d printing is additive, then the print "matrix" must be sintered, leaving behind a porous body. Do a quick search study.
any tables or examples of strengths for given volume and/or given weights? I'm thinking MAYBE porous would be stronger for given weight because it would be puffed up and get better "leverage" against itself.

If I want a pipe of 1" I.D. that is 6" long, will in be stronger framing member with 1lb of old school steel or 3D printed?
 
3D printing a round pipe is absolutely foolish. 3D printing is a good system for parts that need interior reinforcing, like honeycombing.
 
any tables or examples of strengths for given volume and/or given weights?

Even the best laser sintered parts only 90-92% of the density of cast material. Do an online search...manufacturers will gladly tell you how close they get.

I'm thinking MAYBE porous would be stronger for given weight because it would be puffed up and get better "leverage" against itself.

:rolleyes: ...How is any "casting" with voids stronger than a forged machined part....

If I want a pipe of 1" I.D. that is 6" long, will in be stronger framing member with 1lb of old school steel or 3D printed?
3D printing a round pipe is absolutely foolish. 3D printing is a good system for parts that need interior reinforcing, like honeycombing.

See the see my and gonzo's quotes above.

Really, 3D printing is not for high stress parts, but for high machining cost, low stress parts.
 
If you take a look at the recent generation of Formula 1 cars,you will notice the "halo" ahead of the driver's helmet.Beneath the carbon fairing there is a titanium structure that has to pass quite demanding tests.The central element is mostly a 3D printed piece of titanium and it wasn't made by people who are "messing" with the process.....
 
The central element is mostly a 3D printed piece of titanium and it wasn't made by people who are "messing" with the process.....
Printed Ti has measurably lower properties than forged billets, however it can me made into shapes that cannot be easily (if at all) machined....perfect for crumple zones.
 
Even the best laser sintered parts only 90-92% of the density of cast material. Do an online search...manufacturers will gladly tell you how close they get.



:rolleyes: ...How is any "casting" with voids stronger than a forged machined part....

"I'm thinking MAYBE porous would be stronger for given weight because it would be puffed up and get better "leverage" against itself."

".....for a given weight..." being the key words. Balsa wood is soft (though biologically "hard wood" since its not like a pine tree) and weak for given dimension of lumber, but its used for aircrafts because its low density creates like a web of internal trusses. Similar reason why a bike frame is made out of tubes, not same weight of metal of solid round stock.

Any idea if 3D metal can be welded on? Idea would be use 3D printing of low weight, high strength to weight structure of less dense less hard metal, then for something like bearing raceway or lock/latch strike that will be under hard impact or wear, lay down some weld beads to build up solid material and machine your bearing or strike surface. Or more likely weld your bearing/strike component to the 3D structure. Assume no major heat change issues, not an exhaust manifold, just some low speed latches, hatches and related bearings like you might find on van's sliding door.

Then again, now I'm wondering if 3D printing could make a marine spec water cooled exhaust manifold to make a Prius Prime engine/genset into a boat engine.
 
Most 3D printed metals do not like being welded, though some take brazing just fine. It is important to realize that the metallography of sputter formed particles (used in 3D printing) is very different than crucible or forged material.

FWIW, marine heat exchanges with complex passages is one of the principle uses of 3D printed Titanium. However most of those are in "one & done" applications.
 
Most 3D printed metals do not like being welded, though some take brazing just fine. It is important to realize that the metallography of sputter formed particles (used in 3D printing) is very different than crucible or forged material.

FWIW, marine heat exchanges with complex passages is one of the principle uses of 3D printed Titanium. However most of those are in "one & done" applications.
Any specs/charts/tables on how pure mechanical strength of 3D vs forged or cast or milled parts compare? Supposed I want a few small but rather odd-ball one&done parts but strength and weight are still important. I'm wondering if 3D costs could make sense because its just Plug and Play on their end plus most shops will put small orders on the back burner.
 
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