Any Opinions on Sea Ray 360 AFT Cabin

Discussion in 'Powerboats' started by southpaw26, May 22, 2013.

  1. southpaw26
    Joined: May 2013
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    southpaw26 New Member

    Anyone own or have owned in the past a Sea Ray 360 Aft Cabin boat? If so I would like to hear from you on any positives or negatives you can tell me about them. I am looking to buy a 1986 model.
     
  2. southpaw26
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    southpaw26 New Member

    Anyone?
     
  3. IMP-ish
    Joined: Jan 2011
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    IMP-ish powerboater

    I like a boat with more deadrise to cut through waves. Sea Ray express cruisers are 19.5 degrees - the 360 aft cabin is only 9 degrees at the transom.

    I also don't like the 23 knot top speed or 15 knot cruise with twin 350s if that's the power installed? In the 80's twin 350s for this was economical. That was when gas was a buck or buck fifty a gallon. When I want to go fast, I want to go fast. 15-23 is still slow, and I can't see burning that much gas to go slow. Only my opinion.
     
  4. SamSam
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    SamSam Senior Member

  5. WestVanHan
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    WestVanHan Not a Senior Member

    I know some... a friend had one years ago.

    -solid glass hull
    -good mpg at 7-8 knots
    -lots of room as you know

    You will likely find more info on a Sea Ray specific forum, Club Sea Ray

    Of course have it surveyed.
    Good luck
     
  6. Rockwood_Joe
    Joined: Jun 2013
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    Location: canada

    Rockwood_Joe New Member

    Sea Ray 360 a good boat

    I have owned one for four years, that was re-powered with fresh 350's. Surveyed it myself to ensure no structural issues. As for living with the design;

    1) Very fuel efficient around 7-8 knots (relatively light boat), will surf at around 12 knots and plane at 15-16 knots. I top out at 21 knots with 3/4 tanks full and four-six people. At 16 knots, you're spinning 3400 rpm on the 260hp 350s. The slightly dished stern (propeller pocket) gives a slight bow rise attitude that I tolerate, that is somewhat overcome with the trim tabs. Would prefer less stern squat. At 7 knots I get a decent 2 nmpg.

    2) Solid fiberglass hull, when I installed a thru-hull transducer, the solid layup hull was a whopping 1.25" thick just aft of the engines. The solid fiberglass sides from the waterline up taper to about 3/8" or 1/4" at the deck join making for a noisy ride from wave slap. At anchor you can hear the plink plink transmitted through the whole boat. Solid, but noisy. If you're used to cored hulls, the solid hull is like being in a large drum.

    3) Gel coat is very thick, and can probably stand a sanding, making for several stress cracks at the sharp points. At least it's thick enough for wet sanding if required, and buffs out fine.

    4) Stainless stanchion rails are welded on the underside of the bases (for a cleaner look). This design has less weld bead, and consequently weaker joints. Look for floppy rails, as you'll have to unbolt them and re-weld the bases with a more traditional bead and re-bed. This is worth doing anyways to ensure properly sealed and bedded rails. All rail mounts are through bolted and generally accessible. Once done, the railing is quite stiff. Just a time consuming job.

    5) Unable to find any osmosis. That super thick gelcoat hasn't transmitted any flaws, and the general fiberglass work is decent, if almost heavy duty compared to today's newer designs.

    6) Sea Ray's original install of the vacuflush system is flawed. They used only 1 pump to service two toilets. A well running vacuflush system requires each toilet it's own pump. Once installed properly, I found the system works quite well. But we all know how cheap an extra pump is.....

    7) Those classic sliding glass in frame windows love to leak with strong rain and winds. Keep the drain holes clear of spider nests. Classic 70s engineering. There are no other leak points on the deck, just those darn windows, that slide in worn out fuzz.

    8) Marine cabinetry is backed with real genuine marine plywood, so it resists water damage quite well. Oddly the removable floor is just regular ply and will rot or de-lam if continually soaked. Not an issue, because you can replace, but come on Sea Ray....

    9) The drain holes on the flybridge overhang are too small, and love to get plugged. You'll have to enlarge them or constantly be poking the original size ones to clean them out. Water fills up in the flybridge superstructure and shorts out the aft deck lights. Previous owners have probably remedied this, but check this for neglect. Under extreme circumstances, water might fill up enough to cover the flybridge to salon structure connecting bolts - which if not properly bedded would allow water into the salon.

    10) Access to mechanical maintenance is good, as you can remove the floor and get top down access to everything, no reaching into boxed corners required. There is an access panel in the aft cabin floor for getting to the strut nuts. Make sure it hasn't been carpeted over or blocked. You'll need to access that space from time to time.

    11) Most importantly, keep the bilge dry as the tabbed partitions in the hull structure are glassed / gelled plywood. Be careful of errant screw holes, pass throughs etc that aren't properly waterproofed. An unmolested bill from the factory should be fine, it's what owners and contractors do afterwards is the issue.

    12) The outer lower perimeter of the hull (especially forward, and to the sides) is a double bulkheaded with solid fiberglass partitions. Inside is flotation foam. Presumably, if you punch a hole or scrape away a large section of the side chines, the boat won't sink. Make sure there is no water intrusion into this area (i.e from previous impact damage). I have an '85 and with a moisture meter I was unable to find anything (which makes sense - assuming no previous damage). Check this to ensure any previous damage (if any) was properly repaired and dried out etc.

    13) Cutlass hardware, strut bearings, strainers, sea cocks etc. are all decent and good quality brand name (perko etc.)


    Other than that, we love the boat and the layout. The large side decks and tall rails are awesome for handling lines and getting around. In genuine 6 foot waves the boat is a bit light, but it handles 3-4 footers just fine.

    Solid construction, good fuel economy at trawler speeds, but mediocre planing performance are how I would describe the Sea Ray 360 AC.
     
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  7. Rockwood_Joe
    Joined: Jun 2013
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    Location: canada

    Rockwood_Joe New Member

    Pascoe is somewhat right, as in the 1990s when Brunswick took over Sea Ray they made some awful changes. Sea Rays made during the Connie Ray era are generally traditional fare. I haven't seen any of the putty stuff mentioned by on any 70s 80s models. You can't judge or buy on brand name alone anymore these days....
     
  8. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    SamSam Senior Member

    The Pascoe article was from 2000. It used some photos of cored Sea Ray boats as bad examples, but doesn't say what model or year of the boat. He says this

    I would stay away from a cored hull, but it might not be that easy to tell what's cored or not.
     
  9. Rockwood_Joe
    Joined: Jun 2013
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    Location: canada

    Rockwood_Joe New Member

    Unfortunately mostly everything up from the waterline is cored these days. How do you think they hide those giant sweeping glass windows bonded in/on the sides of the hull.... only inches from the waterline....

    Mechanically fastened tiny portholes are so out of style....
     
  10. WestVanHan
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    WestVanHan Not a Senior Member

    Great write up-the one I knew of had Perkins diesels. IIRC they got 4 nmpg or so.

    And it's interesting how things change and vs. gas boats:my 53' -with swim platform- gets 2.7 nmpg at 7 knots.
     

  11. daveanton
    Joined: Mar 2018
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    Location: Minneapolis, MN

    daveanton New Member

    I am sure you never thought your words would help someone 4 years later, but it has. Thank you! Nice, well thought out and articulate "review".
     
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