Another coating option is EPDM rubber

Shop Liquid Butyl Rubber Roof Coatings to Fix Roof Leaks - Official EPDM Coatings Store

Can also buy Pond Pro 2000
Pondpro2000 - Shop/Order to Fix Pond Leaks
100% submersible forever.
Can get white or black
I emailed them and was told shore hardness is the same as a radiator hose for an engine. (60-70)
Was told people have used it on wood boats and they got good feedback.
Can go directly on the wood, no primer needed.
EPDM coatings will not tear.
Pond Pro 2000 people told me copper bottom paint will stick as long as it is not silicon based.

I had a long chat with copilot AI about hulls and coatings and things
EPDM is a more expensive coating as you don't get the same coverage per gallon.
It is thicker coating.
Infinite no fuss recoats, just like with Chlorinated paints.
It will also go over Chlorinated rubber if the Chlorinated rubber paint is sanded.
And a primer exists to make it stick to paints if you want one, it is in the chat.

Using Rubber Pool Paint on Wood https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/XNa8NJpfrwThXCRojrHaT

 

LIQUID RUBBER EPDM Primer 1 Gal. Water-Based Bonding Primer for Rubber Roofing, Pond Liners & Exterior Surfaces 19600US - The Home Depot

The above is a primer if you need it or want one to go between EPDM rubber coatings and paint or some other surface.

I am also posting for my own future reference.

 

What are you going to coat with EPDM, and why not an FRP coating?
Understand the EPDM will remain pliable, and is pretty tough stuff, but a resin/fiberglass coating could lend considerable strength to a wood hull too, and has a better chance of penetrating and bonding to the wood.
Either coating over wood seals moisture in as well as out, making hidden rot a real concern, while limiting your ability to monitor and repair it.

 

My choice is chlorinated rubber paint on the plank wood.
Then a 1/16" coating of 5200 using this notched spreader.
I have 10 gallons of 5200 to use, otherwise I would use EPDM rubber
But under it all is the chlorinated rubber paint.

EPDM rubber is a worthwhile coating. Boat does not need FRP or epoxy
But some of the frames on the port side after removing planking I am soaking with table top epoxy and milled fibers along with extra wood reinforcements. As much as I can, I am getting rid of bronze screws and using 316 3" long screws for planking to frames. I have been pulling off many port side planks.
I cut 1/2" poplar dowel plugs and glue them into the left over plank holes.
Then without drilling recessed holes screw in the SS 316 torx bit screws. All I do is drill a 2" long 1/8" width pilot hole for these 316 #10 screws.
This way, I get a full 3" screw to hold a full 1" plank into very solid framing
1" plank to 1 1/8" frames to either oak floors or additional PT SYP framing added to the oak bent frames
Any but blocks, I also thicken to work with the 3" screws

QLT By MARSHALLTOWN 977 6-Inch by 4-Inch Notched Spreader - Masonry Hand Trowels - Amazon.com

Chlorine paint, 5200, then ablative bottom paint. I may lightly sand the 5200 before bottom paint

So multi layers are in play

All the various coating, epoxy, or chlorinated paint, or 5200, or EPDM rubber paint are water impermeable

 

Honestly I would have used the EPDM rubber paint, except that I have two 5 gallon pails of 5200 to use up. EPDM would have been slightly cheaper and just as good, maybe better.

I wanted the chlorinated paint as it is a pretty tough coating for borers to chew through, and I thought good idea to seal the wood up. And its good for not cracking, it can stretch about 10%

I did get the 5200 new with a 20% off coupon.
White EPDM is better as you can see it, what your doing, same with white 5200

I also wanted a coating on the hull that can stretch and not tear. EPDM and 5200 can elongate 500%

I have heard various things about bottom paint sticking to 5200, some said sticks, other say a light sanding is needed.

I plan to use CPP bottom paint