Alternative Motorsailer Rig

Discussion in 'Motorsailers' started by Yobarnacle, Dec 4, 2011.

  1. Yobarnacle
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    Yobarnacle Senior Member holding true course

    stainless gallows

    Wonder how much it would cost to make this from stainless or aluminum.

    1 inch tubing, loa 3 ft
     

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  2. viking north
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    viking north VINLAND

    Mmmm That dia. last post clicked a light on in my brain, eliminate the top section with exception of what would be the normal end fittings, leave the bottom tube in place, insert a mahogony or teak replacement for the top section. Classy and strong. Gonna play around with that--Tnx. Geo.
     
  3. Yobarnacle
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    Again I was thinking off shelf components. Stanchion bases, inverted, for the end sockets. Grind and polish flanges to match 2 arch tubes after welding.
    I'd look for a surplus handrail already curved for bottom tube. Another hand rail more deeply curved ends, I cut up/apart for top rail sections.
    In interest of lightnes, less windage, and less maintenance(varnish), I was dispensing with the wood while hoping to keep the charm of the silhouette.
    My only stumbling block is the notches. What off shelf item is semi-circular? Anybody make stainless piston rods I could swipe the bottom half of bearings from?
     
  4. viking north
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    There is a hi teck stainless hardware supply outfit here that specalize in piping for brewerys and food processing, Ive welded two gradual 1 1/2in. 90's together to make a custom exaust system for a customer from them. They'd make a perfect U shape and still allow enough space for some self adhesive dense rubber foam as the boom seat. The rubber foam I got from a trucking freight trailer supply, used it in my motorhome build.
     
  5. Yobarnacle
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    If you used wood viking, fitting in the ends has too possible profiles. Rout a cove in edge grain of wood to fit tube circumference, or cut the tube on top so it's half round and bullnose top of wood. Don't think I'd cut bottom tube.
    Cutting away the underside of top tube to fit over wood would be more work in construction, but a cove routed in top of wood would catch water, hastening the day you re-varnished, more maintenance.
    You makes your choices, but sooner or later you pay! :)
     
  6. Yobarnacle
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    are those 90's expensive?
     
  7. Yobarnacle
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    The notches have to be covered in chafing material, you are so right.
    Leather was traditional, but lotsa better modern alternatives.

    But whatever is used, it gives me more freedom to make the notches, could be stainless springs bent in arc.( No idea where to get 1 inch diam stainless springs and bet stiff)
    Better more common, HOSE.
    Once covered who'd know besides me what was inside.
    Would require a welded brace to the arch tubes, since the notches aren't contributing to arch strength.
     

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  8. viking north
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    No wouldn't cut bottom tube--Best would be to slice 1/2 tube on top and fit over bullnose wood edge. No water traps. Can't recall price on gradual 90's been some 5 yrs ago did the job--remember it as it was for a friend who complained about the price as usual. I will check it out and get back over the next week --Geo.
     
  9. viking north
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    Make a short weld between the bottom of the U and the lower arch--will be strong as ever you need. Cut out alot of labour and cost--no need then for the short cross brace.
     
  10. Yobarnacle
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    ahh sooo

    found notches in stainless steel, but 308 stainless. Various profiles and sizes available.
    it's cabinet and door handles
    :)
     

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  11. Yobarnacle
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    with a couple of handrails, some stainless gussets, these fittings, welding then grinding and polishing, it could work
     

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  12. Yobarnacle
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    If the gallows were wider, equal to vessel beam at station installed, the all tube version could also be a welcome hand hold boarding and departing from dock. Support posts would need to be rigidly well supported. maybe bolted both to deck and sides of coaming or aft cabin.
     
  13. viking north
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    The gradual 90's here would be food grade most likely 316 same as beer kegs of which I have a few also. The food grade pipe would be available in all diameters.
     
  14. Yobarnacle
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    Thanks Geo.
    Although you haven't expressly offered, I sense you would be willing to assist me with this project.
    I'm not sure where on the priority list I would put it, except not near the top.
    At any rate, fabrication needs postponement untill I return from africa.
    I better hold onto my cash in case I get stranded over there and have to find my way home. Never worked with this company before. I was supposed to report aboard a week ago but recently they tell me it's another week or two. No reasons offered why the delay. Maybe the heavy lift ship is delayed, but I'm concerned it's the nigerians haven't put up the cash as promised.
    Everybody understands the mexican concept of manana, but from experience I can assure you, mexicans are johnny-on-the-spot compared to nigerians.
     

  15. Yobarnacle
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    the marine fitting are all 316 stainless I believe. The door pulls 308. Any problem welding two types together? My only experience with stainless weld rod is re-assembling shattered cast steel gears and patching cracked cast steel engine blocks.
    Value of my years of experience wandering the worlds oceans, is can sort of communicate in about 8 languages, and have a practiced I at seeing what might serve to repair when new parts unavailable.

    Once repaired a busted seal on a hydraulic steering ram with a 5 inch gasket out of a cam lock fitting on a fuel hose, and a hand carved stiffener ring of plexiglass. Afro engineering!
     
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