AIT Around In Ten

I thought that boats with a "plumb" bow had been around for centuries, long before the ancestors of B. Gates thought about zero's and one's.
To me it looks that we now need a PC to confirm what those ancient "woodchippers" knew from "father to son" tradition. (Just joking).

I'm no expert by any means but it seems that Yrvindt choose that "bathtub" shape (no insult !) for the sheer meaning of strenght and comfort.....because he want to do it non stop.
For this he needs an "alternative route", going around the capes, where he probably will be sailing in rough, to very rough conditions for maybe 70% of the time.
Maybe that the much longer "traditional route" could call for another type of boat, another type of approach to the AIT adventure .
"Hop" from point to point and enjoy it as much as possible....to complete the journey in less than 500 days.(Testa record and original AIT goal).

I have no clue but I assume that Yrvindt's Ten cost a multifold of Manie's very nice 5.5 meter yacht.
Unusual boats could call for an unusual budget me thinks....

5 knots for a ten footer......sounds more than promising !!

 

ancient plumb (or "spoon" ?) bows...

Danish pram :
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthr...ew-design-based-on-a-Danish-beach-pram/page7&

and new ones :
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=702898876416032&id=132460953459830
https://plus.google.com/photos/116209811814901622777/albums/5851052343753094881?banner=pwa (or http://www.boat-et-koad.com/scow.php)

Eric

 

Eric17 very interesting links.
I followed thru on some of "their" links and some good reading there.
Good one thanks.

 

my boat is 5.05 meters

 

other old scow

I forgot another type of boats, with maybe a way to build this "plumb bow" out of plywood : dutch boats, for instance the Tjotter :
http://www.nauticaltrek.com/12808-le-tjotter-petit-batave-rigolo
Eric

 

That doesnt make it look less nicer !!!

 

Those "Hollanders" made some damn nice boats for the rough waters of the North Sea !!
Read somewhere that in the old days, the master builder looked at the finished boat from a distance, picked some shew tabaco from his mouth and said: "Here" needs the lee board to be mounted when he "glued" that Tobacco blob to the hull side.

Those where the days my friend, I thought they never end........(nostalgia song)

 

The Frisian Tjotter is an inland boat as the wide and shallow draft leeboards tell, I've posted info about this on the Yrvind thread in post #138.

​

Here's a Yard that restores Tjotters. - - - (translation)

 

The most interesting (and new) thing for me was the way they build some of these tjotters with hard chines (exactly what is shown in your link, Angelique or in the http://www.windenwater.nl/Prins/index.html or http://www.windenwater.nl/Lutjepotje/index.html pages of the same website).



But the question is : will the plywood accept this bending radius ??



[Edit : the right sentance would be "will the plywood accept the same bending radius as heated oak does ?", of course, Angelique... I fear the glue won't, in any case ]

 

It's all solid oak . . :idea:

 

Well folks thanks for the posts - this is fantastic.
I never realised how close my design is to a Tjotter.
So I went back to the drawings and viola I have a similar hull.
It is of great comfort to me to read that my design is neither radical or way out - I am not looking for something that is different - I want safety and comfort.

The numbers are still excellent - 350 watts resistance at 5 knots with a displacement of 1000 kgs
So she is still slippery enough for me

And of course this also means that Sven has a very nice boat!!!

Regarding the bending issue.
At this stage of planning I am looking at a double skin build.
2 layers of 6mm plywood with a 30mm layer of "core" in between
and of course layers of glass and epoxy inside and outside
The "core" is insulation AND floatation - which means that if the entire hull is double skin the boat is unsinkable - more than 1 cubic meter of floatation !!!

This new hull will save a lot of work and is in fact easier to build.

 

Cut off the bow straight Manie, just above the waterline, this would be an amount of about 15~20 cm I guess, and stretch the hull in the middle by the same amount, this won't harm anything I think and you would gain waterline length and thus speed + a lot of internal volume and displacement (and thus ballast potential) at the same draft . . :idea:

 

Manny... after having designed and built a number of stitched boats, I think you will have a ferocious time trying to get 6 mm ply do do some of those bends without splintering the outer lams or cracking (the main problem is the lack of compression of the inner laminations). I would go with a double lamination of 3mm or a single of 4.5 mm on each side of your core. Getting your core to bend the same way... well you will have to find something more flexible than most available foam sheets. You can build up the thickness with glass afterwards on the outer skin.

 

I think if it's that much curved the foam has to be cut in pieces and then the gaps filled and glued and shaped like Sven did . . . :idea:

Read the articles of Yrvind in April 2012 and May 2012 from the bottom up . . .

 

I stand corrected... he's a many faceted person.