Air voids in outer lamenent

I am a firm believer in using the same materials all the way through Like has been said a layer of Kevlar to no advantage , if you were beaching the boat often Kevlar as a wear layer i would say yes but other wise no !! .

 

Any reason not to do a rough fairing job before laying up the glass ? IE after seal coat and blister repairs roll on a light coat mix with about 1 to 1 mix milled fibers smooth it out with squeegee then air board it

 

Fairing before you do the glassing is the best time to do it just make sure the fairing mix is strong!!, glass run fair and true on any surface is stronger than if its laid over a bumpy surface !!

 

Thanks Tunnels
That's what I was thinking

 

Wow just layered up a few test samples on the bench with the 17 ounce biaxial , did a single and a double layer and then a single sandwiched between 6 ounce cloth just so I could test it and get a visual on the strength of the stuff. Working flat and just pouring the resin on and working it in with a brush takes quite a bit of working it to wet out 100%.
I am sure not getting that warm fuzzy feeling about applying it overhead. I think I had better stick to what I can do and just go with multi layer lighter cloth

 

Use a spatula / squeegee.

If I am correct the 17oz is some 500 gram / m2, and should be relatively drapable and easy to laminate.

Use a roller to apply resin if working up-side-down. Do not work the fabric too much with the roller, the only goal is to apply resin, not spreading it out. use a squeegee for that.

Other option is to laminate on a bench, on plastic film, and apply that to the boat. You still need a spreader to consolidate the fabric.

 

Thanks for the tips Herman
I will have to experiment a bit and see what works ,
Pulled the test samples off the Mylar this morning, look good but not thick enough yet.
I can tell already the 2 layers of biaxial is a lot stiffer than the 1 layer sandwiched between cloth
Found an interesting article from west system on mat with epoxy
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/chopped-strand-mat-epoxy/

 

I have always advocated there is a use for csm in the epoxy lay up under as a soft layer to glass reinforce the resin layer or over a layup as a sacrificial cushion that can be sanded even long boarded without sanding into the main cloth underneith and cutting the bundles of strands .
That one very interesting artical and have downed it into my library of bits of information .
Thank you !!! never to old to learn new things !!

 

Yes I am getting ready to do a couple test runs with 3/4 ounce mat. I wouldn't want to attempt like the 1708 over head but maybe a layer of mat then the biaxial would work

 

The 3/4 ounce mat wet out pretty easy, used my little plastic resin roller with groves to work in the resin and brake up the strands, did 1 with 1 layer mat and 1 layer biaxial and another with biaxial-mat-biaxial and then one with just mat a bit shy on resin "ran out"
The resin roller worked good on the biaxial also, heck of a lot better than the brush yesterday.
I'm liking your idea there tunnels, rather than a fairing compound do the first layer mat

 

The rollers only work well if the groves are completely clean. It is hard to keep them clean. A wire brush helps, but that tends to roughen up the ridges, especially on the plastic ones, and then they start snagging and are no good either. If (when) the plastic roller becomes unusable, replace it with a metal one. That way, you can use a propane torch to start it on fire and burn off all the resin in the grooves. ( don't get them red hot or the aluminum crumbles) Another problem is resin builds up inside the roller so it won't roll, which also renders it useless. With the metal roller, you can take it off and run a drill through it, and burn or scrape off the frame to get the roller working again.

 

So far just cleaning it with acetone before the resin cures has worked well but then I haven't done this big of project before. Probably be a good idea to get me a spare .


Just took a look at the test samples, I like so far , thickness is closer to what I wanted and they feel a lot stiffer than the ones I did yesterday and there still curing "warm"

If this works out I may end up doing 1 layer of mat fared in, 1 layer biaxial then another layer of mat then top it off with 12 ounce S-2 cloth, should come out a little over an 1/8" 3mm thick, If that don't make a good strong stiff hull again I don't know what will

I am for sure going to roll the boat up on it's side one way or another, with the crane on my truck I can get it there, If I can get it there without braking anything will be a big pluss

 

making progress

Well 45% is better than overhead
About have the side ready, lucked out none of the blisters went all the way through, looks like just the outside layer of woven and then in some areas the mat is a lot thicker.

Pulled the test samples off the Mylar this morning and the two that the mat was against the Mylar has some air bubbles or it is the binder in suspension, cant tell. couldn't see them from the other side when I rolled the resin in.
I will have to try it again but this time I'll put a lot more resin down first and see how it comes out . The mat I am using for the test is about 15 years old so that might make a difference too

 

You should start at stern end of the waterline and work along as far as possible and down towards the keel line so the laps of glass are fish scaled in the right direction .Make sense ? are you sure you cant do one long stip all the way the full length of the hull ? or certinly half the length !!
If the glass is old make sure its dry 100% dry .

 

I have been thinking about trying to do it in long strips but that would be a lot to do at one time

The side is as ready as it gets, I went ahead and ground off what I had put on the bow plus the old mat layer and ground out all the blisters and bad spots then pressure washed it several times, give it a couple days to dry then seal coat it.

It would be nice if I could find stitch mat but from what I understand the one outfit that made it discontinued it