Air voids in outer lamenent

Not yet still getting ready, work keeps getting it the way. Finishing up the front section and if things go right might start glassing in a couple hours. Lots of dew at the moment.

 

It went ok did 2 layers on the bow section, the first layer I went vertical with the strips, pre cut them and just stuck them on after coating the hull. the strips are 15" wide and the longest there was 36". Second layer I went horizontal pre cut to length and rolled up on tube unrolling as I worked the resin in, worked a lot better that way. It just takes a little practice but applying overhead is not to bad. First layer I let harden up about 2 hours then applied the second coat then about 1-1/2 hours latter rolled on a coat resin

 

Very good. Work your way back, and you are a happy man again!

 

Yep Thanks for the help
I was reading up on Mas epoxy and what they recommend on the final coat of cloth is after it is wet out and set would be to mix up a fairing batch and fill in the weave using a spreader, makes more sense to me to do it that way rather than 4 coats of resin to get enough to sand smooth without sanding into cloth. If I use micro fibers and cabosil what would you recommend on ratio of micro fibers to resin for a good strong mix ?
Tom

 

Try some peel ply over the top of your wet glass !!

You could glass and resin coat using peel ply all at the same time !! saves filling and rolling numerous coats of resin over the surface and Gives a nice finish to the surface ,The peel ply can stay on till you are ready to start under coating etc etc and then you just tear it off and light sand and prime and undercoat etc .The cost of peel ply saves hours of filling ,sanding and getting a nice surface to cover with paints etc

 

I will have to experiment with peel ply, sound interesting if I could get it on there quick enough. I sanded what I applied yesterday and it came out a lot better than I thought it would but the 6 ounce cloth has a pretty fine weave to it .
Tom

 

When we are laying glass we put the peel ply on at the same time and roll the whole lot at the same time !!you can sculpture the surface and flatten lumps and fill hollows with the hard riller
Wet out the glass with you sponge roller and place the peel ply straight on top then wet and roll it out at the same time !!,do you use a hard roller as well ?? if so gently flattern any high spots and fill the low spots and let it go hard and tomorrow tear it off and see what you got !!
Like the glass start in the middle and wet to the edges always , it saves heaps of time and saves material as well !! . when you peeled it you will understand why !!
If you using polyester resin ,Vinylester or epoxy dosent mater still works the same .
Doing repair work if you carefull you can roll and get the shape almost 99% right so can save filling to !!. dont forget to peel it off when the resin is hard !!.
Yes over the years have had the odd fruit cake thats tried to peel it off before the resin was really hard and made a hell of a mess .

 

The only resin roller I have is one of those 3" plastic ones with groves, works good on mat using polyester but that's about it. I am half tempted to try sandblasting on the center section, just run lower pressure and run water over the works while I am doing it. Still have about 90 square feet to strip once I sling the boat and that equals about 3 days work doing it with grinders and air sanders.
It wouldn't bother me to much taking off another 1/16" or so an building back with epoxy layup.
Tom

 

A plastic roller with grooves is ok glass first and peel ply imediatly over the top and gently roll with the plasitc roller and see what kind of finishe you get !
Sand blasting sounds cool and far quicker than hanging off the end of a grinder for 3 days !!.

 

I have an old power boat hull I can test out the sandblaster on, curious to see how it will work. Looking at getting more cloth, I was surprised to find out it would be quite a bit cheaper to go with 17 ounce biaxial vs multi layered cloth, If I did go with a layer of biaxial what would be the best orientation 0/90 or 45/45 ?

 

Its really up to you what you use !! double bias is easyer to lay and conforms and goes round shapes better .

The 90 foot deck we are doing i changed from using 0/90 that the designer spec-ed to 45/45 double bias because we have lots window frames and shapes to mould over and around but the glass we are using is 800 plus grams with a 275 gram csm attached!, it all goes onto a soggy wet 450 csm underneith as a bedding layer to help hold resin and fill places where they could get voids when they rolling and working around all the intricate molding shapes for the window frames etc etc .

Its your choice !!

 

Well I would not say sandblasting is the cats meow, still slow going but at least it's not dusty running water on the surface at the same time. If the laminate under is in good shape it is not to bad keeping a relatively smooth surface but with mine being so bad it pits badly which I think was every where a blister was in the gel coat. The pits are all about the same depth with good glass at the bottom, Might work out to grind in down to the bottom level of the pits where the laminate is in a little better shape, at least the old mat would be gone and build back from there.

 

lil better

I tried an electric hand plane and it didn't work so well so I broke out the grinder and ground down to the bottom of the pits where I had sandblasted sure enough that is the bottom of the mat and that is where I started sanding into a finer cloth. The laminate looks a lot better at that level. The mat is at least 3/16" thick. I have my work cut out because I am going to remove all the old mat and build back from there

 

oh no !

Ok looking at the picture reasonably closely you have reached the woven roving and it that point should grind to but not through . That basicly all thats been holding your boat together all this time . It would be a good idea to get shot of the bunks the boat is sitting on one side at a time and do as bigger patchs as possible i also recommend you get away from the multi thin layers and get a decent heavy material on using the epoxy resin !! my choice would be a 800 gram double bias or simular as its easy to lay and really strong !! peel ply over the top and do as bigger areas as its possible to do .

Thats just me ,But what do i know !

 

Thanks tunnels
I have not found any bias that heavy yet. With as much as I removed I was thinking couple layers of 17 ounce biaxial witch seems to be about the heaviest I can find without mat. I wasn't intending on removing the mat layer but everything I had been reading on blisters and the failed repairs was caused by the mat looking like mine and barrier coating it,even seen some pictures of some that looked a lot worse than mine.
Tomorrow I am going to work on getting the keel out and the boat off the trailer and on the ground, If I can I'll try to tip it up on it's side like you mentioned, would make it easier. With a little luck this will be a one time project