Air voids in outer lamenent

Great thanks for the tips, but joining will be a heck of a lot easier and faster then sanding and feathering. What I was thinking on the strips was to cut the ends a couple inches longer than whats needed, run a tape line at the top waterline and tape the cloth to the hull above tape line pull it down into position and put a couple marks on the edge so I know where the resin needs to be lift it and roll the resin on the hull and then pull the cloth down around center line and tape to other side, should help holding the cloth in place and keep the ends from peeling loose from the hull " at least it would give me two hands to apply resin". My order showed up today so I at least have what I need to coat with resin and fill the blister voids, need to find the cloth so I will see what I can find local

 

What ever system you find the easyest and most conveniant !!!

 

See? Glassing up-side-down sucks....

I would consider another method Wayne suggested: Roll the boat on its side, then laminate. I just do not know the weight of the boat, and if it is safe to handle the boat with a couple of big blokes.

 

The advantage of getting it on its side is to do all of one side in one hit so to speak right to the painting stage certinly undercoated . then the other side .
Did a tunnel boat once in a barn and used a chain block to pull one side against the wall and then did the same for the other side after it was painted . Just 2 weekends and it was ready for the water again , reskined sanded undercoated and painted with 2 pot just me on my own ,The area would have been close to what you have got !

 

If I dropped the keel and stripped off the easy stuff I would guess the hull to weigh around 2000 Lbs, could be rolled but I wouldn't feel confy about it and I would rather make sure hull is straight before applying. Summer here now hot and dry so I will only have a 3 to 4 hour window to glass in.

 

Did a little test batch, 6 ounces went a lot farther than I thought. anyhow the resin is very clear and thin seems to soak in pretty good. I was hoping it wouldn't out gas from the pores but it did a little. The area that I did I plan on sanding - grinding down more so it did not mater on the test run. What I am thinking is after I get it ground down and prep ed is to take the heat gun to it and get it pretty warm to the touch then apply the resin, should help suck the resin in when it cools and hopefully seal the pores. Had this happen once before doing a balsa core repair, out gassed and pushed the cloth up , wasn't a heart warming moment for sure.

 

Forgot to add picture

 

Apply heat after putting on the resin, and have a brush in your other hand. That way you can heat pretty good, some bubbles will appear, but also the epoxy will thin down. When you remove the heat source, brush over it, and the cooling down will at leat pull some of the epoxy in.

 

Awesome
Just rolled on the sealer coat and built up the section I ground out with 6 ounce cloth. The rollers came from Glen-L marine 7" x 1/8" foam and they work sweet, no drips and running back on the brush handle like the paint brush. Rolled on a thin coat in two directions then tip'd it. Found the cloth at a local fiberglass shop 60" wide 6 ounce. What I may end up doing is 3 layers first one vertical then 45% strips to those then finish with vertical strips staggering the first layer seams.
Tom

 

Try to butt-join the seams, that will save a couple of hours fairing and sanding.

Anyhow, this boat will get together again!

 

Ok
Yeah rollers are cool and can never understand people using brushs ,its a totall waste of time and effort .
Just make sure you dont skimp on the resin or you headed where you just come from !!
Always be accurate with your measureing and all your brews will be the same gel time everytime and you will know instinctively after a while the time when its getting to its end . As the resin gets near its end is a good time to use it in one of those hard to do places where you want to hang the glass and almost watch it till its gelled and make sure it stays where you put it !!.

 

Thanks
Yep I found the pumps are not 100% accurate, The hardener pump burps a little and it ends up about 5 to10% shy on hardener, still cures that way but takes longer. Now I go by the paint cup ounce measurements and use the double pot and stir method.
After I posted yesterday went out and checked and when it got hard to the touch but I could still leave a thumb print I mixed up a batch with Cabosil and a dash of milled fibers and filled in the ground out blister areas, smoothed out nice and stayed put, what I did there was after mixing I spread it out on cardboard so it wouldn't fire off to quick and applied with plastic bondo spreader, I had plenty of working time with it.
Tom

 

dont forget its milled fibre thats holding it together the carbo sill add very little if anything to the strength its just to jellify and thicken only !.

 

Well I feel a little better, I went ahead and strip'ed the gel coat to the top of water line stripe. Aft end had lot of real small blisters bubbles in the stripe and actually go above it a couple inches, anyway when I got above the true water line the glass looks great, good solid layup with no air bubbles .

 

Thats good to hear !!so all is going well ??no problems and you have a system that working !!