Affordable seaworthy cruiser

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by goodwilltoall, Jul 31, 2010.

  1. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    option #3
     

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  2. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    1st pic is the what's hoped for.

    #2 is same accommodation area but using existing (41") shaft. The CoB would be right in middle where water tank is shown and as explained above, a lot of weight gets placed further aft.

    #3 is engine mounted aft but tanks remaining forward, head is brought in which really reduces int. space. Benefits would be larger aft deck space and engine noise reduced to living space however i still much prefer #1.
     
  3. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    Problem solved. Engine location will be as shown in drawing #2 however fuel will still be centered at CoB but only 175 gal capacity because of head on port side. Water tank (75 gal) will be under dish rack so should balance.

    Only one hatch over centerline in helm house (engine access), air supply 12" over from centerline, exhaust ventilator 9" off center, and interior door centered should keep things dry.

    Measured weights and as drawing shows it will be right at 3700lbs give or take couple hundred so that relieves my concern about droopy ***. Area between 34'-7" and 29'-8" now gives excellent safe sitting room on both sides of engine with plenty room at fwd part reserved for neat mechanical setups. Only slight difficulty will be accessing last 2 1/2 ' section for packing gland.

    Waiting for rudder parts but hoping with good weather to compleat additional layer of interior bottom sheathing plus another day to build bed then maybe next week drop engine.

    Peace.
     
  4. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    Btw, 1/2" steel plate at engine bed. Even though it's a hardwood sassafras has low impact resistance.
     
  5. SamSam
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    SamSam Senior Member

    Is this referring to hogging?
     
  6. Emerson White
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    Emerson White Junior Member

    Just so we are all on the same page. The last time I saw you building anything it was big box store common 2x4's sprung onto stations you had built on a strong back. I think you were planning on coving those with plywood of some sort.

    Is that what you did? Do you care to share what grade/thickness of ply and what adhesive you ended up using?

    Thanks for posting the pictures. It looks like you've put in a lot of work.
     
  7. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    Greets,

    Remember request for updates so have a few pics to show. Have the updated plan as well for reference.
     

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  8. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    So fwd to aft. Frames are 1.125" with .375" ply gussets. Attached to frame sides is 11/16" x 2.75" pine strips, outside of that two layers 3/8" for total of 1.5" thickness. Bottom is 1.0" treated wood forgot how many layers but its built up to 2" overall. First pic looking fwd is section 2'-6" crash bulkhead, next is section 4'-6" and keel attachment, between two it is filled solid concrete (about 25lbs). (2) 1" x 2 5/8" chine log at bottom. Behind that is section 8'-0" WT bulkhead which is seen from otherside in the next pic.

    Between 8'-0" and 4'-6" underneath is the mid point of cutwater/keel and all solid wood strips/epoxy (8" total thickness). Between these frames the 3.5" wide keel void will remain to serve as sump.

    Pic 2 shows sections 8'-0" to 10'-6". Hull sides and bottom received an additional layer 3/8 to 5/8" ply inside between the frames. This will be typical for the balance of hull. Reason being at this area (frames 10'-6" and 12'-6") top of frames was cut out so wanted additional strength, The bottom is I recall correctly is still 14" of solid framing. Pic 3 shows the berth looking fwd from section 14'-6".

    Pic 4 shows what it looks like before the ply layer is glued. The epoxy is poured into crevices and with filleted ply at edges. Attached with 1.5" stainless 316 ring shank roofing nails. Keel between 10'-6" and 12'-6" is empty and prior mentioned area but all other keel areas fwd of section 18'-0" are filled with solid concrete (250-300lb).
     

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  9. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    Pic 1 taken at 29'-8" looking fwd. Pic 2 same section looking aft, where you c section 32'-0" frame cut where I thought to put engine (to be rebuilt). Limber hole is section 34'-7". BTW decided to reinforce most bottom frames since its quick. All pcs cut already. Pic 2 also shows bottoms already plywooded.
     

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  10. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    Looking aft from section 34'-7" which shows frame 37'-2" cut which has to remain as such for engine. At bottom of keel is a total of 3.5" plywood composite the bed frames are 1" sassafras 8 or 9 layers glued n screwed. You can c 3 holes on each side where I drilled in with 3/4" boring bit (great tool the Milwaukee core bit) then poured epoxy and dropped in 5/8 threaded bolts.

    Three more 5/8" x 10" fine thread grade 8 bolts on each side for engine. Found some good epoxy for which is used in construction for setting roadway anchors. Have 3/8 plate still to put on but basically ready for engine.

    Also seen is V shaped cut out at section 40'-0" where on further thought it was decided to put engine further fwd, this will also b reframed after shaft is put in.

    Looking all the way aft you can see where shaft tube begins.
     

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  11. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    Now you c section 42'-7" more clearly and section 45'-0" which end of keel, area between is basically solid ply/epoxy and with shaft installed will prolly b a total of 15" solid composite.

    Pic 2 shows area between sections 48'-0" and 45'-0" looking thru rudder hole you c 5" of ply with additional 5" more once rudder tube machining is completed (4.5" 316 stainless to hard to hand drill). There is a void around ply edges because epoxy flowed fwd but with new layers on top it will fill.
     

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  12. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    boarding step 18" to bottom of hull is mostly filled with layer ply/epoxy for accidental bumps. Deck area aft has been raised 18" so there will only b 7" of bulwark instead of 24" previously shown. This immensely increases access to mechanical areas therefore, eliminating hatch aft. Still thinking about added roof at helm which would provide standing hdrm.
     

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  13. goodwilltoall
    Joined: Jul 2010
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    I know keel is excessively wide aft, it was done for huge propeller hub aperture to make it sufficiently strong.

    Deck houses will have to wait until at water (to high to truck)

    Peace
     

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