A timber plug

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by whacker82, Mar 30, 2012.

  1. whacker82
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    Location: ireland

    whacker82 Senior Member

    hi all just an idea here im to make a 6 x6 foot timber box out of normal hardware store ply wood, what im stuck on is what do i put on the timber so i can continue with the release wax, gel coat, chopped strand. i have a boat mould already so i know what comes next and how to do it. but im stuck on what goes between the timber and release wax. thanks in advance people.
     
  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    Release wax is all you need. It will keep the fiberglass part from adhering.
     
  3. waikikin
    Joined: Jan 2006
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    Location: Australia

    waikikin Senior Member

    I reckon if it's a simple box you might want to start with melamine faced sheet, if you start with hardware store ply there's a lot of smoothing/fairing to do, have a look for Duratec from Hawkeye industries i think they have online instruction on the process to give a few clues, you "can" use auto finishing systems for the finish too. If you use melamine faced MDF or paritcle board the finish is as molded except for filling & smoothing of joins, corners & fastenings.Jeff.
     
  4. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    I would say you need a paint base for the release wax, pva, etc. if only to cut down on the number of wax coats needed.

    If it's actually a box shape with 90 degree angles, you have to design and consider how to get the plug out of the mold and possibly how to get the parts out of the mold.
     
  5. Steve W
    Joined: Jul 2004
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    Steve W Senior Member

    Yes, you need draft to get the part out of the mold or else you need to make the mold so it comes apart to remove the part. As has already been said melemine faced particle board or mdf is a better choice for this kind of mold, not only for the surface but also it tends to be a lot flatter than cheap plywood.
     
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  6. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    He may want to have wood grain in the mold.
     
  7. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    Well, if you look at "Find all posts by whacker82" you can see he had no luck with fiberglass molds or molding and has sworn off the topic and left the building.

    On the other hand, I posted a process where I was able to make a mold from a hand hewn beam that captured the detail of the grain of the wood and even the fine nicks in the blade of the adze.
     
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  8. whacker82
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    Location: ireland

    whacker82 Senior Member

    your just amazing
     
  9. Jetter
    Joined: Dec 2012
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    Location: Australia

    Jetter Junior Member

    Makes me smile.
     
  10. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    whacker is that you ??

    Back again ??
    Best wax for timber is Johnstons floor wax !!,need to rub it into the wood grain !!the same wax can be used on moulds as well !! rub it on with a damp sponge ( not wet ) leave and let dry and lightly polish off !! .
    Have a good xmas !:D
     
  11. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    lol! It was easy!
     
  12. whacker82
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    Location: ireland

    whacker82 Senior Member

    no not back im afraid to say, this post was put up last march. ive not forgotten i will be back some day, but im taken a break from it all for awhile. but thanks for the advice, and happy xmass to you too. have a good one back in newzealnd.;)
     

  13. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    Have a good xmas whacker

    Take care !! :D:p
     
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