A MUST SEE- radical way on plywood epoxy finish job

[Tungsten]

I don't think it's available at HD or the like. Google Petg Mylar in your area

And yes it works well just over epoxy but not so well over anything that needs to air dry like epoxy paint or varnish

 

[aaronhl]

Would the plastic painters spreads work?

 

[lewisboats]

Would the plastic painters spreads work?

Too thin... you want something that is thick like .020 vinyl or polyproplene

 

[aaronhl]

Is it basically the type of paper they used to write on the overhead projectors?

 

[lewisboats]

Go to your local Walmart and go into the fabric department. They have rolls of clear vinyl there. Check out or use the thickest one.

 

[Tungsten]

Google sabic polymershapes see what that gets ya.
Fabric stores may also sell something similar but it has to be thick enough.

 

[Yellowjacket]

As Lewisboats said, the vinyl from Walmart works well. It is soft enough to let you roll out the bubbles, but is still stiff enough to give a good finish. It can still be a bit "wavy" just due to the nature of the vinyl, it is not as stiff as the Mylar. The Mylar produces a flatter surface.

Trying to use it on a smooth surface is going to be tough. I used it over wood with 6 oz glass and the vinyl worked well. I was able to roll out all the bubbles and the result was excellent, although there was just a touch of "waviness" in it. The .030" thick Mylar produces a flatter surface, but it is considerably harder to get all the bubbles out of the surface. If you don't get virtually all the bubbles out it isn't worth doing. That's just my opinion, but it's based on experience with the process. If you are doing a flat surface, like a table top or a flat deck it is easier if you have something of a rough surface, like using the mylar to give you a flat surface for filling the weave.

I tried to use the .030" mylar on a surface that had some brush strokes in it, but was pretty smooth, and that was a disaster, I ended up peeling it off when I couldn't get the bubbles out because the amount of epoxy was too thin.

Also, this process works better with thicker viscosity epoxy than the thinner stuff, particularly when you are doing it in a thinner layer. The really thin stuff doesn't work as well unless there is cloth in there at the same time. Again, just my experience.

 

[lewisboats]

Where did you get your mylar? I 'bout wore my nails off on the keyboard searching for the stuff in that kind of thickness and didn't get any decent results, which is why I use the vinyl.

 

[aaronhl]

This has a height (maybe thickness) of .20

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Magic-Cover-Multi-Purpose-Clear-Vinyl-Roll-54-x-25-yds/23554847

 

[michael pierzga]

Use standard peel ply and you will produce a smooth , compacted laminate... better work.

Plastic sheet has its uses....small repairs in gelcoat for instance.

 

[Yellowjacket]

Where did you get your mylar? I 'bout wore my nails off on the keyboard searching for the stuff in that kind of thickness and didn't get any decent results, which is why I use the vinyl.

Meyer plastics, here in Indianapolis has it for a reasonable price. Not sure what it would cost to ship it. It can be rolled so it might not be that bad. I would look at a local plastics distributor and look for PETG sheet in a .030" or .020" would likely be just as good.

 

[rwatson]

Use standard peel ply and you will produce a smooth , compacted laminate... better work.

Plastic sheet has its uses....small repairs in gelcoat for instance.

This is probably the best advice.

The Mylar provides a nice, shiny surface, but no flatter than properly rolled peelply. Also, as stated by Yellowjacket, the stiffer materials that are purchased in rolls, end up with producing 'waves' that have to be faired back to get rid of the ripples produced

After using Mylar, you then have to scuff up the surface before you apply the varnish, so any 'shiny' advantage is lost, and you have no advantage in using a much more expensive surfacing material.

 

[michael pierzga]

Personally I dont like the look of a bright finished strip plank or plywood boat. The grain runs the wrong direction. They look cheap, awkward and age poorly

If you need a bright finished component , use selected veneer over the panel after its been faired.


Ive tried the plastic peel ply routine and didnt like it. Too many bumps and joints ...too much sanding

People avoid real peel ply because the view it as expensive. Peel ply dramatically reduces sanding, saves time and money on paper and keeps your workshop much cleaner. Epoxy dust is bad for you...the less the better.

buy a suitable length of peel ply...you will be happy you did

 

[hoytedow]

Too thin... you want something that is thick like .020 vinyl or polyproplene

4 mil or 6 mil polyethylene works.

 

[Tungsten]

4 mil or 6 mil polyethylene works.

I used this the other day,had a ding in my wood gunnel that needed touch up, a little goo and covered with 6 mil.Wraps around the edge nicely and keeps the ep from running.For larger pieces make sure the printing on the plastic is on the up side.