A little help with a few question

Discussion in 'DIY Marinizing' started by MengWalton, Jul 5, 2011.

  1. MengWalton
    Joined: Jul 2011
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    MengWalton Junior Member

    Hi Everyone,

    Im a marine engineering officer in the merchant navy, on my months off I thought it would be a good idea to take my time up with a project, so im looking at a speedboat project (personally ide like a cruiser but simply do not have the space) , the hull structure is solid, battered and rough but solid, it has a 1300 Cross flow engine in the boat hooked up direct drive to the prop shaft leading to a prop, the boat was left out in a yard uncovered during a storm, there were no plugs in the engine, the engine exterior is rusty but I belive it can be save, It was running previously so I believe it has a marine J.W.C system so onto my question:

    Im used to Massive Marine 2stroke diesel bigger than most normal building, I have little to no idea about car engines, I imagine they are the same but smaller with slight differences, Is a FORD 1.3 Crossflow engine got enough power for a 17 ft deep v, and is the ford engine worth trying to restore, or should I fit another engine if so whats the best and easiest to ? another question is direct drive ok? I mean its fine for a 58,000 KW engine doing 89rpm but what about a small hi-rev engine?

    Also, I plan to have a open engine bay at the stern with a ventilation fan.

    My question is, is it a project or is it a no go ?

    Thanks
    John
     
  2. anthony goodson
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    anthony goodson Senior Member

    Back in the 1960's there were boats like this on the Norfolk Broads, solid mounted engines no reverse or neutral, and a piece of hose with oil seals in it for a sterngland ,basic but surprisingly popular. If the engine has been properly marinised ,even if it can't be saved the marinisation kit can be used on a replacement engine. It all depends on what you are prepared to accept ,no reverse would be my biggest worry.
     
  3. MengWalton
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    MengWalton Junior Member

    Well, you bring a serious point that I totally overlooked, a merchant engine simply stops and fires up in reverse, how much would a gearbox cost me to manufacture, I was thinking of moving the engine further aft and using a chain drive to the prop shaft, but i talked myself out of the idea as its lots of work for little space gained...... my main aim is to keep the cost low make parts as much as possible, and improvise in other places, im not looking for a 40000 mph speed boat more a nice looking boat cruising along at a respectable speed of about 10knts, as for the engine the exteriior looks completly trashed and rusted however the internals are OK, i beilvive that a bit of delicate operating with a grinder some paint now gaskets, check piston rings ect. that it might just pull through.
     
  4. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I'll second Anthony's comments. The first thing I'd do is fog the cylinders with penetrating oil, then with the plugs removed, try to turn the engine over by hand with a socket on the crank bolt. If she turns over easily and you don't hear weird stuff (clunking sounds aren't good generally), then you're probably safe to spin the engine up with the starter (plugs still out), which of course assumes it has oil in it which isn't cloudy or smells bad (burned or like puke is bad). Preform a compression test right away to determine how much life is left in the old lass. If the starter spins her up nicely and the compression is within spec, toss a new set of plugs in her and see if it'll "crack", spit or sputter, indicating the ignition is trying to fire her over. A few drops of fresh fuel in the carburetor will help with this test.

    If it does spit and sputter, you're probably good to go, though changing the oil, filters and other obvious maintenance chores, would be a wise thing to do at this point. The biggest concerns when an engine is left like this are cracked blocks, because anti freeze wasn't in the water jackets, rusted external and internal parts, such as frozen rings that have welded themselves with rust to the cylinder walls, rusted cam lobes, ditto lifter faces and other parts. If you can spin her up good without the plugs in her, you'll build up a modest amount of oil pressure, which will go a long way toward helping the cold/dry start up situation.

    As to a home made reverse and neutral gear box, well this is quite an under taking. A lot of loads to handle and redirect, but not imposable. Personally, I'd just buy a transmission so you can enjoy the reduction gear too.
     
  5. MengWalton
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    MengWalton Junior Member

    Those comments are much appreciated, I was hoping someone would tell me what to look/hear for noises etc. as i have no clue at all with small engines , this forum seems to be excellent, as for the transition, could you give me a rough estimate on how much one would set me back?

    Many Thanks Again
    John
     
  6. anthony goodson
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    anthony goodson Senior Member

    Bit off topic but might appeal to you ,at about this time{1960's} I was the proud owner of a white 70hp mercury ,in those days it took 6 cylinders to produce 70hp ,reverse gear was selected on the control box ,which stopped .and restarted the engine backwards ,{if you were lucky} won't work for your crossflow though.
     
  7. MengWalton
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    MengWalton Junior Member

    Prity intresting to know that it used to be done like that in small craft, we still use it on large merchant ships, even brandnew ones its just simple and effective with the air start systems.

    Anyone got any ideas of price on a gearbox ?
    Or any other suggestions on the engine etc

    Thanks
    John
     
  8. daiquiri
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    daiquiri Engineering and Design

  9. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    CDK retired engineer

    A boat without neutral or reverse is very awkward to handle, you'll probably need oars to move the boat to open water before starting the engine.

    If adding a gearbox is not what you're after, think about a prop with pivoting blades. There probably is no ready-made variable prop system on the market with such a small diameter, but for an engineering officer it may be a challenge to construct one.
     
  10. TeddyDiver
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    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler


  11. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    CDK retired engineer

    I do not think so.
    With 4000+ rpm the prop must be really small, like 10 inch. The "ehw" system has a hub of at least 5", so the blades can be little more than teaspoons.
    And it probably costs more than the boat itself.
     
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