99 Explorer 19 Tunnel V repairs

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Aransas Flats Rat, Sep 7, 2018.

  1. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    I came up with a brain fart this morning and thought how I could figure out how to see if had any other leaks that could eventually let water in.

    So I took a large shop vac made a hose that fit hull drain taped it to seal it off and taped the other side to seal it and I was surprised at what a vacuum I was able to pull on the hull. It was a great way to find old screw holes leaking and I also found two leaks in the deck drains through the side of the boat. You could definitely here them whistle ;) so I marked the areas to be repaired for later. Just a thought!!!
     
  2. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member


    Next test is to connect hose to the shop vac blower. Squirt soapy water on hull
     
  3. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Well that sounds to easy lol. Rain rain rain. It’s good stuff glad to see it.
     
  4. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    I’m finding more stress cracks run long ways in the gelcoat located along the hull line steps but this is also the areas I’m finding the air bubbles in the gelcoat. Any thoughts?
     
  5. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    The more research I do about the boat the more worried I get about the stringers. I read a lot of post about stringers delaminating and coming loose cause stress cracks in the gel. Would someone please advise the best way to inspect them without having to pull the cap.

    Thanks
     
  6. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Well I opened her up after a few days of pondering the stress of not knowing what’s below. Well as they say I opened Pandora’s box but I’m glad I did. Not dogging but just to inform any pre Dargel owners please beware of what lies beneath your deck. This is what I have found and was shocked at the workmanship or lack thereof and how this production boats was built. 8BEBE40A-78EF-4238-A041-38960FE972AA.jpeg 6B5DDF6D-2652-4CCB-97AB-A97D46E393CC.jpeg 1456E7ED-A651-4B82-848A-04CDCDCB32F5.jpeg
     

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  7. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    After seeing the saturated wood I new the deck had to come off. So here we go. Pulled the deck and found the top of the stringers were not coated or glassed and became a wick. The tops were rotting and the deck started to wear through the rotted areas. Cut out around the deck and much to my surprise the deck was not even attached it was screwed down to 3/4 ply strips layed flat on top of stringers and screwed in to the tops of stringers, it was also screwed with drywall screws that were no longer in existence , no glue and the back of the ply was not coated and/or glassed it was completely saturated as well and dripping with water.

    Also in the pictures you will notice the stringers were butted and scabbed together with a piece of ply and screwed, again with drywall screws. When I removed the deck I noticed one of the scabs on the stringers was laying in the bottom of the hull and the stringers were never attached to the transom/stern D055C269-60FE-4032-95CF-C601CAC104AC.jpeg 09D5E3B9-EE3B-4876-8693-A4338F11DCBE.jpeg 0BEB8972-909C-464F-A4F4-ADBEAB1F88F3.jpeg
     
  8. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    52EAB43A-3620-43FC-9A61-E14417769E15.jpeg Finishing up removing the deck and found at the stern ply was just layed down, no screws to act as a spice for deck board joint.
    Took core samples of transom/stern and yep all saturated, when they cut the drain plug holes they didn’t seal and water had been leaking since built I would assume.
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    Tearing out transom and stern boards.
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  9. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    So this is were I am at to this point, Got the stern/transom cleaned up and planning the stern transom and framing. Plan is to extend the stern boxes forward and making it into a box frame for the keyslot transom. I will using AB Marine Fir for the new core, three coats of epoxy tabing with 6” 1708 and glassing in with 1708 Matt 73E2A048-4E45-4ECC-A0D9-A7370CE1C3A5.jpeg
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  10. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Removed all wood from stern and started laying out frames and bulkhead
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    P&S boxes will be storage and decked. Everything is just mocked up for now.
     
  11. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Got stringers removed and noticed the hull stiffeners cracked on the side that the stringer scab was laying in the bottom of the hull, I would assume from so much flexing with such poor construction.
    F2D7E010-4E9F-47C6-8B91-953C79659FC7.jpeg
    Plan is to clean/rough up to lay 1708 tape over them. Started cutting out stringers, will use 1/2” two layers laminated with offset joints creating on solid stringer set in thickened epoxy, 2layers 1708 6” tape and glassed over.
     
  12. PPRINT
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: Texas, USA

    PPRINT RobT

    Welcome back Flats Rat...Good to see your update.

    Have you considered using a reinforced polyurethane foam board versus plywood? The most talked about brand is Coosa Composite Board, but there are several others.

    I found a great wholesale supplier for all boat building supplies, including composite board that is located in Schertz TX. Just down the road from both of us.

    You can PM me if you want their name/info.

    Keep the pictures coming.
    Rob
     
  13. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Thanks PPrint, man it’s been an adventure with this thing, I’m in so deep now I figured I better get it right. I priced out composites and didn’t have the budget to go that route. I found a great deal on the Marine fir, it was ordered by someone and they never picked it up so I got it for the remaining balance, half price. That’s great to know about the supplies here in Texas. My biggest weakness is knowing what glass to use were so I figured go with 1708 for strength and stiffness.

    At this point not knowing how thick the hull is I think I’m going to cut out the stiffeners down that area and add additional stringers and Tran frames to make her right and solid. I’m mainly relying on research and recommendations at this point.
     
  14. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Remove the scrap glass stiffeners.

    Give some consideration to bedding in marine foam there or going ober the entire section with 1708 and then adding framing.

    You might get some better opinions if you overpost a new thread just on the hull cracks. Something like hull crack repair advice. At least it isn't a core hull. If it were cored; the repair is totally different.

    Same fallguy. Posting here, too, for you is wise.
     

  15. missinginaction
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    Location: New York

    missinginaction Senior Member

    I'm assuming you're using 1708 biaxle stitchmat. Years ago I rebuilt some engine stringers on a boat a bit larger than what you're doing here. I used 1708 and discovered afterwords that I'd have been better off using just biax or regular cloth without the chopped strand mat. This is particularly true as I used epoxy in the layup. I'll look for the thread and copy it below as we had quite a discussion about building stringers. You'll see that I made mine out of inexpensive foam insulation board and it's held my engine securely for many years without issue.

    You'll read some posts by Paul Ricelli (PAR). Sadly Mr. Ricelli passed away earlier this year. Nevertheless his knowledge is worth passing on. read through this thread and you'll learn a lot.

    Stringer And Deck repair https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/stringer-and-deck-repair.29459/

    Good Luck and welcome to the forum.

    MIA
     
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