70hp Evinrude no spark

Discussion in 'Outboards' started by mrelmo, Sep 27, 2020.

  1. mrelmo
    Joined: Sep 2020
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    mrelmo Junior Member

    New to Forum, 1995 70 hp Evinrude bought it 3 years ago on a poontoon. Always had issues starting (flooding) because I didn't know proper (priming).Last year had an intermittent no spark, the local dealer replaced the powerpack seemed ok. This year back to the intermittent starting no spark. Number 3 (bottom cyl) no spark bad coil but 1 bad cyl should not kill the starting. So last week the dealer found a bad coil on Number 3, checked the trigger OK, bad stator. Took it out 3 times, last time just cruising at about 1700 rpm it quit, had to be towed in. Now this past week when the dealer got it running the mechanic said he found the bad coil on 3, replaced the stator but no spark, pulled the year old powerpack off and installed my old powerpack just to see if maybe the old powerpack was not bad. No effect so he put the powerpack back on that was installed last year and it fired and was running great. This whole time he unpluged the harness from the helm was using a remote starter. So the ignition and kill circuits were bypassed. Also all grounds were checked. So now I am thinking there is a harness issue between the stator and powerpack as the mechanic said he swapped out the powerpacks and reinstalled the newer one from last year and it fired and ran good. Until the 3rd time out this week when it died. Any Ideas
     
  2. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Needless to say, a good workshop manual eliminates much guesswork. All you need is a simple multimeter, and you can check all components of the electrical system quickly enough. Sparkplugs, unless you have already replaced with new, could also be suspect.
     
  3. mrelmo
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    mrelmo Junior Member

    Plugs are new, I keep an extra set, me and meters don't get along very well, I have a digital meter and a evinrude johnson shop manual. But wiring diagrams are difficult to follow. I have heard that the grounds on these motors are a major issue, but do not know where to locate them. If the dealer is having problems running down the issue, I would definitely have a hard time.
     
  4. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    You don't need to worry too much about wiring diagrams, any half-decent manual will have test procedures for all ignition components, one thing to watch for, are spark plug leads that are faulty, they can blow coils, which will run for a while, if replaced, but soon expire due to the faulty leads. there are also various different ignition systems in those 70's, according to year model, and the different parts don't mix, or not for long !
     
  5. mrelmo
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    mrelmo Junior Member

    interesting about the spark plug wires, thanks for the info
     
  6. mrelmo
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    mrelmo Junior Member

    Mr Efficiency, thank you for your insight, sorry for not getting back sooner, end of season and the boat is at the dealers right now, can you explain about the different ignition systems that might be in play
     
  7. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Yes, they used more than one CD ignition system, not at the same time of manufacture, but for different year models, and as far as I know, parts are not interchangeable between the different systems. A good workshop manual should tell you what year model, has what CD ignition system
     
  8. mrelmo
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    mrelmo Junior Member

    OK got my boat back, last month the stater was replaced prior to the motor dying, the trigger and power pack were replaced this time so all 3 major components are new. Hopefully there will be no more issues. Would a faulty trigger effect the powerpack and cause it to go bad? Also told the triggers rarely go bad. On a final note, I have heard in the 1990s Johnson Evinrude had developed a horrendous reputation (my motor is a 1995) any explanation what happened to these motor during that time period. Thanks for listening
     
  9. mrelmo
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    mrelmo Junior Member

    Prior to the new season I will replace all 3 plug wires that should complete the full ignition system
     
  10. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    The bad reputation was from the newer Ficht technology, it was a good idea, but implemented poorly.
    Also, they came out with a Smart Gauge system. The tach included a system check before the motor was started. The gauge would frequently fail, I went through several under warranty.

    Your motor is the older design that was good.

    One of the tests for 'no spark' is to disconnect the connector/plug to the ignition switch.

    If it runs disconnected, but not when connected, then investigate or replace the switch.
     
  11. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Yes, that three cylinder motor may have been as good as any OMC 2 stroke they made.
     
  12. mrelmo
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    mrelmo Junior Member

    OK several questions, what are non coil pac plug leads, I am thinking that is must be a plug wire that can not be detached from the coil, my wire have a boot for the spark plug and a boot for the coil so each wire should be around 20 thousand ohms? I do not understand disconnecting the ignition switch, if it is disconnected how do you start the motor and exactly where is the connection to pull apart. thank you guys for the help
     
  13. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    The plug is on the motor under the hood, it used to be a round red plug, it changed in the 90s and became a black rectangle or square plug.

    Jump the starter and it will run, you don't need the harness connected.

    I never check coils or plug wires, unless you can test them under load the results aren't reliable.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2021
  14. mrelmo
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    mrelmo Junior Member

    Hmmmmmm interesting
     

  15. boatbuilder41
    Joined: Feb 2013
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    Location: panama city florida

    boatbuilder41 Senior Member

    It sounds like you may have suppresion core wires... These motors need solid copper plug wires.. . stator needs a cranking voltage test as well as a ohm test.. Test the 2 yellow wires from stator with rectifier disconnected.. Meter on a.c. voltage should be around 180 volts dc.. I have seen them run as low as 120 volts a.c. but its a hit and miss ... And remember that weak stators blows packs... So if there was a pack issue.. There was most likely a reason for it.. And replacing pack often leads to premature failure when stator isnt replaced.. Battery connetions is critical on these engines..
     
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