6 HP briggs & Stratton outboard conversion

Discussion in 'DIY Marinizing' started by HelicopterJohn, Jul 1, 2012.

  1. HelicopterJohn
    Joined: May 2012
    Posts: 80
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    Location: Seffner, Florida

    HelicopterJohn HelicopterJohn

    Prop

    Hi Dave,

    Thanks for the advise and the offer on the prop.

    I am working on the throttle control today. I am using a throttle control handle from a weed eater that also has a kill switch. I added a swivel end on the carb to accept the bullet end on the throttle control cable. I still need to fabricate a bracket to hold the cable end that attaches to the carb. I also added a return spring that will default to idle. I will also probably add a kill switch that I can attach to my belt loop so that the engine would quit in case I was ever thrown overboard.

    Waiting on my buddy to bring his conduit bender over so I can finish up the underwater exhaust retrofit.

    I would also like to add some type of tachometer that will let me know the engine RPM. Any ideas??????

    Here are a few pictures of my progress.

    John
     

    Attached Files:

  2. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    Re your PM ..Sorry not to get back to you ASAP as on holiday RE the exhaust....biggest problem with the real B&S OB is sealing at the original silencer as its got a split tube outlet. You could fit a bigger/extra silencer to the one you have and direct the outlet away from you or fit a pipe down into the lower Chrysler unit which of couse was the silencer for the original unit.

    The real answer is to come straight off the cylinder block ..make a flange and bring a pipe into the lower unit..maybe even use the old water pump to spray water and cool it.

    Just studied the photos ..you done that .... read the text which did not refer to the exhaust
     
  3. HelicopterJohn
    Joined: May 2012
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    Location: Seffner, Florida

    HelicopterJohn HelicopterJohn

    Exhaust System

    Hi,

    Thanks for the response. Yesterday I attempted to bend some copper tubing to shape and quickly found the pipe bending is not one of my strong points. All I managed to do was put a bunch of kinks in the copper tubing.:(

    I may try to just use straight tubing ans purchase some fittings to make the turns needed to get to the bottom of the lower unit. Yours looked so nice and neat (photo attached) and mine was not acceptable.

    Hopefully, I will be able to figure out a better solution.

    John
     

    Attached Files:

  4. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: North of Cuba

    hoytedow Wood Butcher

  5. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    The trick is to bend some wire or say 1/4 copper tube to the right shape then duplicate the bends in a bigger size. you may want to start in the middle....
     
  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    If you use fittings, you need to use hard solder (silfos) not soft and this may let go anyway with the upper portions of the tubing, because of the heat.

    If you want to bend soft copper tubing, soft solder a cap on one end of an overly long tube, then fill with dry sand, packing it down as you go, then put a cap on the other end of the tubing. The sand will prevent the tube from buckling as you bend it. When bent, cut the caps off and dump the sand.

    Steel would be a better choice, brazed or welded. You can bend it with a "pipe hickey" commonly used by electricians.
     
  7. HelicopterJohn
    Joined: May 2012
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    Location: Seffner, Florida

    HelicopterJohn HelicopterJohn

    Pipe Bending Techniques

    Hi guys,

    First, thanks for the helpful tips.

    I should have invited my electrician friend over that wired my shop. He was a master and bending EMT conduit for my electrical wiring in the shop. If he could see what I did he would still be laughing.

    I think 3/4" is pretty hefty pipe to bend although I am sure a person with experience would think it is child's play.

    I think I may have some 3/4" EMT conduit around the shop and I may try to bend it and see if if have any better luck. I like the idea about filing the tube with sand to prevent any kinking.

    You guys are the best! Many thanks, as I have picked up a lot of useful information on this forum for my projects.

    On a side note, I traded an old sander I had for an old Sea King 6 HP (Montgomery Wards) outboard that doesn't run. The guy says it has no spark. I will have to put that one on my project list. :D

    John
     
  8. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: North of Cuba

    hoytedow Wood Butcher

    Frequently the "no spark" problem is no more than corroded points needing to be filed.
     
  9. HelicopterJohn
    Joined: May 2012
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    Location: Seffner, Florida

    HelicopterJohn HelicopterJohn

    Easy Fix

    Hi Hoyt,

    I was hoping for the easy fix. Ha Ha:)

    I looked on e-bay and saw some listings for points and condensor kits for various small HP outboards. Don't know if they would work on that particular motor. As I said, I haven't taken it apart yet and don't even know what the points and condensor look like.

    I need to finish some of my open projects before I tackle this one. If bad comes to worse, I will make another Briggs & Stratton Conversion.

    Hope the boat build is coming along. It rained pretty good here today.

    John
     
  10. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: North of Cuba

    hoytedow Wood Butcher

    Sea King(at least mine) was made by Chrysler, if that helps with parts search.
     
  11. HelicopterJohn
    Joined: May 2012
    Posts: 80
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    Location: Seffner, Florida

    HelicopterJohn HelicopterJohn

    Finally Finished

    Hi Guys,

    Thanks for all your valued input. I think I have it ready for sea trials. :)

    I bent some 3/4" conduit and made an adapter at the top end. I took a 3/4" close nipple and put it in the lathe and turned one end of it down to the the same size as the 3/4" conduit O.D. Then I made a sleeve to fit over both of them and put a slit end to end. Then I used two radiator hose clamps, one to clamp the sleeve to the turned down end of the close nipple and the other to clamp the sleeve to the conduit. Then I put a stand off about half way down the lower unit to support exhaust pipe. I painted the exhaust pipe with Krylon high temperature 1200 degree paint.

    I have enclosed a few pictures.

    I believe it is ready for a water test.

    John
     

    Attached Files:

  12. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Likes: 33, Points: 48, Legacy Rep: 404
    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    Personally I would have done a water test with the origingal silencer first so you can compare with your version.. I think the lack of an expansion box in such a long pipe will restrict the engine......For the Montgomery Ward the only place for advice is www.iboats.com forums ..Unfortunatly I got thrown off ...if a moderator says black is white dont put him right ....beware
    You have been banned for the following reason:
    Constant arguing

    Date the ban will be lifted: Never
     
  13. HelicopterJohn
    Joined: May 2012
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    Location: Seffner, Florida

    HelicopterJohn HelicopterJohn

    Muffler Test

    Hi pistnbroke,

    Good idea on the muffler test. I could easily do that as I still have the original muffler and only have to remove 3 bolts to remove the extended exhaust pipe to do the comparison test between the two options.

    Also, thanks for the tip on the other website. I understand about sensitive moderators. Some people you can lead to water but can't make them drink. i.e. its their sandbox ;)

    John
     
  14. broke_not
    Joined: Jun 2008
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    Location: North Dakota

    broke_not Junior Member

    These are available just about anywhere that sells small engine stuff:

    http://www.jackssmallengines.com/hour_meter.cfm
     

  15. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
    Posts: 1,405
    Likes: 33, Points: 48, Legacy Rep: 404
    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    The one listed above is good but may not be totally water proof unless the back is filled with resin ( if not prise off the back ..cut the corner so you have a " hole " and fill with poly resin ...the square ones with s1 and s2 are not waterproof .cannot be made waterproof and the face peels off in hot sun ( I know I sold 1000+ )
     
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