45' solar catamaran

Discussion in 'Multihulls' started by yabert, Nov 25, 2024.

  1. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    Also, verify with surveyor.
     
  2. yabert
    Joined: Oct 2024
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    yabert Senior Member

    Here is a throttle I plan to build to control our 2 motors.
    From my search, this kind of stuff cost 1k$ or more, so I will build this for around 150$.
    Based on two 15$ sealed potentiometer, the design is to turn 3'' plastic tube for the main body and use 1-1/2 rod for the inside pivots.
    There is ball plungers to stop the stainless steel lever in place at neutral.
    Please let me know if this kind of throttle can be find affordably. I have many working hours to do on this, so I prefer to know before starting the job ;)
    upload_2025-12-1_20-21-21.png
    upload_2025-12-1_20-23-22.png
     
  3. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    Don’t you want an electronic control that will allow synchroning?

    The typical control would run in neutral, press a button for safety. Shift to reverse or for’d. Press safety after in gear for synch. Then accelerate.

    The safety allows you to rev up in neutral, btw.
     
  4. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    Not an ad or advertisement. Just to help discuss topic. But this is a good price if you ask me.

    https://ebay.us/m/KVeGGe


    IMG_4191.png
     
  5. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    You’ll need to research this control, but the troll is usually a bump feature. This is all mechanical. To get to electrical; you’d hook this to some other devices. That is where the work would be for you, no?

    Maybe they make electric motor controls with synch. It isn’t in my wheelhouse, but you’ll want it or the boat will vibrate.
     
  6. yabert
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    yabert Senior Member

    Exactly the problem I see for this kind of device. They are sooo pricey, even used.
    Thanks for your input.

    I don't need synchronizing. I will have screen with RPM of both motor, so synchronizing will be by hand.

    Foward/reverse security is a good point. At the moment I don't see how I can do to force driver to press a button when in neutral to allow reverse to ''engage''.
    With the drive electric motors I plan, it will be possible to pass from forward to reverse inside a second :confused:
    I will verify in the software if I can add a very slow reverse ramp up or a delay.
    The only thing I'm actually sure is I can set forward power 3 or 4 time higher than reverse power. That alone can add safety quite a bit.
     
  7. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    Huge difference in strength between the two at 1/2" each...
     
  8. yabert
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    yabert Senior Member

    Yes, I know that.
    Now the missing link for me is to know what are the marine rules in order to do proper choice.
     
  9. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    Are you gonna insure the boat?

    You’ll need an insurance c&a appraisal or whatever Canada requires. The surveyor will tell you how to meet his requirements and if he required CE certified windows. If he does, you ain’t building them. Either way, it’ll be up to the surveyor, not you.
     
  10. yabert
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    yabert Senior Member

    I can't imagine need to reach a surveyor each time I want to design something for my boat o_O
    And from the little experiment I have with surveyor and the story I heard, doing a survey on a boat is a bit freestyle, disorganized, wobbly and at the limit deceitful.

    My goal is to learn in order to design properly. Then I will be able to tell the surveyor why this windows thickness, location or design is legit on my boat.

    Portlight is a good example because there is many used windows for sale, but I want to know which one will be legit on my hulls and know where I can install them (from waterline by example).
     
  11. yabert
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    yabert Senior Member

    I think I slowly see the light across this tunnel of portlight rules:
    CE design categories for portlights: A (ocean), B (offshore), C (Inchore), D (Sheltered Waters).
    Area I, II, III or IIII: are related to portlight location on the boat (picture from Lewmar hatch-portlight-fitting-guide)

    In Lewmar guide, there is note: For more details on the CE Regulations, please refer to the recreational craft directive 94/25/EC.
    I look at this and the only thing related to portlight is:
    Openings in hull, deck(s) and superstructure shall not impair the structural integrity of the craft or its weathertight integrity when closed.
    Windows, portlights, doors and hatchcovers shall withstand the water pressure likely to be encountered in their specific position, as well as pointloads applied by the weight of persons moving on deck.


    OK, so I'm looking at Category B, Area I for my Cat and it seem I can do anything I want as long the above is respected and I can prove it, right?

    upload_2025-12-2_14-38-33.png
     
  12. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    I did not suggest calling the surveyor on all things, but anything where there is uncertainty. There is no reason to twist my words into an alternative meaning.

    The RCD uses iso 12216.

    But still, the surveyor will decide whether he intends to hold you to using a tested and certified port.

    All you do is find a surveyor you intend to use and retain him and he can bill you time on early questions. So, to ask him if he is going to require CE labelled ports is like a 1 point or 6 minute chargeoff.

    Or take risks. It ain’t my funeral.
     
    bajansailor likes this.
  13. yabert
    Joined: Oct 2024
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    yabert Senior Member

    Thanks. Usefull and clear.

    Quick question for everyone (I hope it's an easy one): Is escape hatch are mandatory for a 45' Cat?
    Mine don't have them. If that change something, motor Cat without sails.
     
  14. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    I don’t believe a cat not for hire or passengers requires them in the US. But I included them on mine for peace of mind. I have 3. I put an ocean hatch (cat 1) in each of my hulls because the companionway entries are next to the fuel tanks. Any fire there would make escape difficult. The ocean hatches are forward facing and could offer summer breezes at anchor. In the salon, there is an entry door and the forward facing windows could have been fixed, but I opted for an escape window. It is really hard to use, but someone may have a chance in a fire, and it does allow really nice breezes in the cabin.

    I read the RCD and what they want is an escape hatch for a boat 12M+ that can capsize and trap occupants in a space with no direct route to water. Because cats are less prone to capsize; they can be exempted, generally.

    For me, I based my decision on the cabin/salon on the notion both fuel tanks were in close proximity to the cabin entrance. If for any reason a fire broke out at night blocking that doorway; the occupants of the salon sleeping area would have a chance and same for sleeping bunk in each hull..

    I can’t imagine how to determine escape hatch placement for a capsized vessel.. I suppose the main thing they want is an alternate to a doorway, but determining where it goes could be fun.

    For your boat, consider personal safety or if you want to charter, maybe Canada has other rules. And for you, consider the batteries the fuel I suppose.

    My hull bunks are a bit tomb shaped, so I did all I could to make them full of to tinted light.
     

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