35' Steel "Colin Childs" refit

Welsh plugs are often Aluminium, brass or steel. Providing the motor is fresh water cooled and using a decent additive then there is little or no corrosion, on the law of areas the welsh plug should be more noble and the block corrodes (but not at all noticably).

 

progress

Thanks mike - went for brass, had some spares made too

Just some progress - motor is done - bowsprit up, most of the patches in the forecabin done, the insulation can go back here. Started on the Spars.

From what I can see I have no running backstay, but jumper stays forward of the mast. The top of the inner forestay does not coincide with the spreaders for these, but attaches to the mast a few feet above. Is this cause for concern?

 

insulation

Spars done. Finished a mockup of the panelling to the forecabin. 40mm "Polysyrene is cut and fitted between stringers. The whole then covered with foil faced paper "sisalation". This is held by transverse "firring" battens of hardwood screwed to stainless nuts tack welded to the stringers. Panels of "masonite" press hardboard are cut to fit and clipped to the battens with plastic "christmas tree" clips as one may find in automobiles. The panels are then faced with vinyl and dressed behind with waterproofing. The battens are varnished and create a shadow line of timber around each panel. I wanted the ability to easily expose any part of the hull and this combination allows me to do this. I have used some cheap materials though, and am concerned about durability. Any comments?

 

galley and heads

I had decided to use parrafin (kerosene) because it is "safe". Fiddled with some burners and stoves and soon gave up that idea for propane/butane. I must just rig some method to vent the bilges manually. I am keeping the existing gimballed two burner top. Adding a tiny rotisserie oven which i am converting from 220V to gas, with the addition of a small battery operated rotisserie motor. My shower is a converted "chip geyser". Basically a water jacket flue with small header tank, holds around 6 litres. I am adding burners and foot operated pump, see mockup in last pic. Testing it heats in around two minutes depending on ambient. I have avoided any auto-lighting auto-safety peizo gizmos in favour of a large shutoff valve. Gas locker will be under cockpit seats and have vent in transom. No fridge. Large icebox with a ice making machine possibly..

 

Hello Pengreg,
I don't have much to add, other than to say,
keep up the good work, and the additions to this thread.

Rotisserie on a boat! How luxurious. Are you planning to cook fish on this, or will you be making stops to resupply your ice box with fresh chicken and meat?
This leads to the other question (which Jimcooper already asked)
what use are you planning for this boat?

Best luck.
Hans.

 

fancy that, she was built by a friend of mine, there was never "Co" would you like his number?
Colin Childs was a poor designer and a worse builder, he once tried to biuld himself a yacht, welded right down one side of the keel rabbit line first without putting any weld on the other!! wonderd why the thing canted over, ,maybe was the first canted keell TEE HEEE

 

Thanks Hans, not sure where I am going yet. Dont think I will do a big crossing, probably East Africa coast, Madagascar, Sechelles, Comores. Close to me.

Lazyjacks you BEAUTY!! YES I want his number and anything else you can give me on Childs. Thanks!

 

Hi Pengreg, I want to congradulate you also [ I've just found this post] you're going great !!. Looking at the post dates, you haven't recieved a lot of comment / support, but you're obviously self motivated and a bit of an artist I thought !! [ chalk drawings - I think ].
Good to see photo's of your critics as well as boat pics . You do nice work .

re closing in the cockpit, some seem to be worried about the integrity of the new cabin, couldn't you keep it watertight , as the old cockpit was !?.I mean cover in the old cockpit, but keep the old water tight integrity of the original setup .
Then if it were damaged, you'd still have a water tight boat .

 

colin childs refit

Pengreg......Never thought i would see the old 23c diesel mentioned on this forum ,I had more than a passing acquintance with these engines about 30 years ago ,as you say ,found in Massey Ferguson 35 and at least one pommy
forklift ,that I had more than enough to do with .You are spot on regarding parts prices ,they were cheap and still are ,as a matter of interest i Googled
23c diesel and found O/Haul kits at less than 500 dollars (Australian),compare that to the Jap stuff,actually they wern't a bad little diesel for their time in typically pommy fashion (last forever but a bit of a sluggard)In regard to your setup ,1to1 gear and universal joints ,that would appear to me to be a good setup,WOT would be 2000 rpm max ,so you would be only turning at about 1500 to1600 , and no doubt the propeller you have is matched to this .
As regards universal joints ,yours look to be sized for the job,of course everybody wants to use Aquadrives or such like nowadays ,very very expensive ,in my view an expensive solution to a non existant problem ,by the way i guess there is a thrust bearing there somewhere ,universal joints will not take thrust.also there is a sliding joint between the universals ?.
As a matter of interest there is a Colin Childs "kingfisher" advertised for sale at my local marina ,might take a look at it ,that is of course if it is actually at the marina......cheers

 

sent you a pm with builders email contact, did you get it?

 

Thanks Globaldude! And you are right, the essential structure and watertightness of the cockpit remains unchanged below the new "house", including large transom drains

Thanks too Hartley!, I have found some marine CV ball joints to replace the universals. Well timed post; was beginning to doubt this motor..

Got your post, many thanks Lazyjack!

 

Two questions, what's the difference between "marine CV ball joints" and the garden variety found on cars ??.
Mike, what's wrong with a grunty universal - two with spline between - truck ones can take the torque of 450hp+ pushing 40 odd ton in low gear , so why not a prop ??.
OH, Hartley, was that old Pomme forklift a "Conveyancer" ??, I've got one , don't know what the engine is but it's amazingly reliable . I was told the engine was the same as used in the london taxi's !?. I do know the forks were used in the 1950's here in NZ.

 

mmm.. I suspect the only difference is the price. This pair has a purpose made shaft and "universal" cast clamp to the propshaft and thrust bearing. My only doubt was that the "throw" of a heavy universal may add to vibration.

I have been fortunate to correspond with the real builder of this yacht. And really fortunate to have chosen such a suitable and safe design, naieve as I was when I first saw her. With his permission here is a copy of his mail:

"Hi Greg, Hey its great to hear whats happened to my old boat.I sailed her to Thailand in 79/80, sold her to Dario Sandrini[Italian], her name at that time was Tangaere ,which means "to wander" [in NZ Maori language].He must have renamed her Kido.He then took her to Mosambique,where he sold her to Joel & licia Mendes who renamed her Solmar & did a circumnavigation, and on route stopped in at NZ. I met up with them quite by accident as they where anchored next to me.I have a Dennis Ganley designed "Tara 39".We spent some time together & they asked many questions about her construction etc. They later sold her to an English chap & I since lost track of her. They[Joel etc] are currently in the pacific on a large catamaran[they rang when in NZ].The design name is revenue cutter, I couldnt contact Colin but Im fairly sure I could find a copy of the plans somewhere[my brother is building one now],another brother has a ganley "Pacemaker".I found her to be a good sea boat & had the misfortune of spending three days in 70 knot gale in the Tasman sea on her.She handled it better than I did.We lashed the helm hard over & rode it out hove to.She has a tendency to hobby horse when going to weather, due to her full volumed bow,but other than that shes an ideal cruiser[especially if youre not in a hurry, but thats the case with all sailing]. Regards Peter Faulkner "

 

The Igloo

OK - I am so undecided over this the only way is to make a complete mock-up of the "house" and helm, hatches, winches, tracks, etc and see if it works first, before I see if I can make it strong and light enough. The only change I have made from my sketches is to rake the windscreen forward. It seemed that aft rake on the windscreen would encourage water on deck up and into your lap. Moving around and in it so far is working quite well??? Oh the dustbin lid is the wheel.

 

That should be ok. Providing the mast has a "reasonable" section.

You have solved any long term problems by making the whole easily removable. Foil is a moisture barrier and you have to consider exactly where the dew point will occur with various possible temp gradients. Just consider where the condensation will run when it forms.

Re you doing this re-build full time or spare time?

All the best