215 Campion Rebuild

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by Effin Boat, Jun 7, 2017.

  1. Effin Boat
    Joined: Jun 2017
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    Location: Yukon, Canada

    Effin Boat Junior Member

    So I bought a boat that has now turned into a BIG surprise project. I am keen and invested in making things right but I need some advice. I've already lifted the cabin and top half of the boat off to access the hull. Of course things got worse. Now pulling motor out to rebuild motor mounts and at least one entirely rotten stringer. Transom seems fairly solid but we'll see.

    My initial plan was to drill 3/8" holes along other three stringers, dry them out and treat with CPES and fill holes with resin and just replace one rotten stringer but wondering if I should just do all 4 at once. New, dry and treated. Manufacturers fiberglassing was poorly done.

    My big question is, can I just cut away tabbing on one side of stringer and still pull it out and re-bed and bond a new stringer with epoxy to the 1/4" of good fiberglassing skin along the ski locker (inside section)?? This way I wouldn't have to remove the floor. Picture attached.
     

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  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Welcome to the forum.

    CPES isn't going to fix anything, just empty your wallet. Also drilling holes and hoping it'll dry, is a second career sort of time frame. The usual approuch is to cut only as much of the tabbing as necessary, to remove the offending stringers or stringer material, than wholesale replace or scab in repair sections. Lastly, you close everything back up with more fabric and goo. I'm not fully sure what you mean by saving the ski locker, but if you mean you'd like to rebond to a 1/4" wide hunk of tabbing, well this just isn't enough material to hold much. Generally, the transition taper is 8:1 (at least), so the new can have sufficient enough area to bond well to the old.

    You can do all the stringers at once, though the boat has to be well supported, so it doesn't distort once you've cut everything away. As a rule, if the stringers are shot, so is the transom, though more often the transom is repaired, long before the stringers, so it may have been already addressed.
     
  3. Effin Boat
    Joined: Jun 2017
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    Location: Yukon, Canada

    Effin Boat Junior Member

    Thanks Par, here's a better picture of what I guess is called the fibreglass skin left along the floor side of the stringer. It's approximately 12" so my thought was to bed the new stringer and laminate it to this existing skin with resin and then top hat the works. Would that be strong enough?


     

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  4. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Yep, looks so, though strength is dependant on how much fabric you apply. A few layers of biax will do, once you have the new stringer bedded.
     
  5. Effin Boat
    Joined: Jun 2017
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    Location: Yukon, Canada

    Effin Boat Junior Member

    The boat is on a trailer with rolers now. Do I need to be concerned with the hull shifting if I only remove one stringer at a time? The top of the boat has been removed and I'll be removing the motor to work on motor mounts also.
     
  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Without pictures there's no way of knowing what you're up against, but the engine should have come off first, relieving much of the hull's burden. Rollers, unless along the centerline are a very easy way to distort a hull shell, as the contact area is very small so point loading is high. There's a number of ways to properly support a hull, even while still on a trailer, multiple bunks, station molds, etc. Once properly supported you can wholesale remove the rotten mess.
     
  7. Effin Boat
    Joined: Jun 2017
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    Location: Yukon, Canada

    Effin Boat Junior Member

    Here's a few photos. I see now I should have probably braced things before removing the cap. It's an I/O and thought I could fix things without removing it at first. Is it too late now to brace it?
     

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  8. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    You can fix it, but it's more effort now. First, get the engine and drive off the boat. Next check for distortions, using a straight edge, particularly along the "buttocks" aft. Check for "hooks" and similar common concerns. Once you braced and supported the hull, you can start on the stringers and likely transom repairs. In most cases this is way more effort and cost for the boat's worth, but many still have done it.
     
  9. Effin Boat
    Joined: Jun 2017
    Posts: 5
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    Location: Yukon, Canada

    Effin Boat Junior Member

    So I've removed motor and removed the one rotten string back to the transom with the motor mount attached to it. Planning rebuild of motor mount which consisted of three 2x6's laminated together to a piece of plywood and nailed to the stringer in four places. These pieces of wood used for the motor mounts were not even resting on the hull (about 3" above). Seems to be an inferior design?? Is this normal or should I rebuild them so that they are supported by the hull and epoxied down to the hull and to the stringer? Read I should use only hard wood for motor mounts. Is that true? Any suggestions on best rebuild design/materials?? Also, what is best method to bed stringers? They didn't seem to be bedded in with anything just heavily tabbed in 1/4" glass/resin with a very thin layer over stringer (even missing glass in some places!!!)
     

  10. Aguamenti
    Joined: Jul 2017
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    Location: Vancouver

    Aguamenti New Member

    Good Day ... How is this project progressing? Were you able to rebuild the stringers? I am thinking of embarking on the exact same project ... 215 Campion stringer and transom rebuild. Please provide an update if you are able. Thx
     
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