20ft Fibreglass boat repairs help & advice needed

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by stuee, Aug 27, 2012.

  1. wooky30014
    Joined: Jun 2012
    Posts: 25
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    Location: East of Atlanta Ga

    wooky30014 Junior Member

    Interesting timber joint, I see how you mean that it locks together :cool:

    Stuee, busted knuckles ? :eek: you supposed to hit the chisel not your knuckle :D (kinda like the thumbnail being the wrong nail) Yea I saw the pics you put up and swore it was mine I was looking at and since we're both facing the same . . . . you might think of something :idea: or maybe me thinking.

    Tunnels, will I need to put a keel stringer in as well ? from some measurements I took awhile back the bottom of the hull at the drain is an inch thick and appears to be hand laid coarse weave glass bow to stern, putting another layer as you mentioned would be no problem as there is plenty of room

    OH, I saw a 20 ft Stamos on Craigslist that looks kinda like what mine will be when finished with the "new" cuddy
     

    Attached Files:

  2. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    The iniside new layers is to make sure the stringers and there glass is well stuck to the hull over a big area not just small places . The grot and grim from all the stuff thats been floating round inside is the big problem !!,grease oil and who knows what else so getting a really good Bond between the old and the new is your number one mission , A GRINDER WILL BE BETTER THAN A SANDER !! SORRY !!, the surface needs to have glass fibres raised not smooth ,:rolleyes:so the new will get a really good bond to the old !! Find 16 grit so it tears into the surface but make sure you dont dig holes with the grinder!!!!
     
  3. stuee
    Joined: Aug 2012
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    Location: Australia

    stuee Junior Member

    Hi Tunnels.
    Would a 50x75mm structural uncoated pine piece of wood be ok for the keel as i can get that in 6m length and in one piece so i dont have to join it.

    Cheers
     
  4. wooky30014
    Joined: Jun 2012
    Posts: 25
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    Location: East of Atlanta Ga

    wooky30014 Junior Member

    I'm gonna have to get me a metric conversion chart LOL
     
  5. stuee
    Joined: Aug 2012
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    Location: Australia

    stuee Junior Member

    Ok people.
    I have cut the transom boards, 1x18mm and 1x15mm and the stringers.

    I have a few q's before i start glassing on the weekend.

    1. With the transom boards i was going to cut a few holes in both sheets in random spots different on each sheet thinking that the resin with go in the holes and help it lock together better, good idea?

    2. What wood do i need to pre treat with the resin and would i just use resin and cat mix only with nothing else.
    What would i need to treat?
    All the stringer?
    All the transom boards?
    All the floor panels?

    3. When i treat them how long should i let them dry before actually fibreglassing them in and would i have to go over them with the grinder to rough up before i glass them?

    4. So my plan is... Glass between the 2 transom boards and screw together from the inside boat side, then glass between the transom and boards then screw to the transom from outside the boat, then put a glass sheet over the top of it all inside the boat - would 1 layer be ok?

    5. After glassed the transom in, then put the bog down for the stringers and set them all down in it and lay the floor panels on top to make sure they sit level or would this be too much weight?

    6. How long from setting the stringer in bog do i wait till i can glass them in properly?

    Thanks
     
  6. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    Ready to go !!

    Ok people.
    I have cut the transom boards, 1x18mm and 1x15mm and the stringers.

    I have a few q's before i start glassing on the weekend.

    1. With the transom boards i was going to cut a few holes in both sheets in random spots different on each sheet thinking that the resin with go in the holes and help it lock together better, good idea?
    You should drill hols yes about 80mm to 10mm apart all over the new boards so you get resin come through

    2. What wood do i need to pre treat with the resin and would i just use resin and cat mix only with nothing else.

    What would i need to treat?
    All the stringer?
    All the transom boards?
    All the floor panels?
    Yes all of it bothsides and specially any endgrain

    3. When i treat them how long should i let them dry before actually fibreglassing them in and would i have to go over them with the grinder to rough up before i glass them?
    A couple of hours or more !!,when the resin sealler is completely hard

    4. So my plan is... Glass between the 2 transom boards and screw together from the inside boat side, then glass between the transom and boards then screw to the transom from outside the boat, then put a glass sheet over the top of it all inside the boat -
    would 1 layer be ok? one layer no !! what glass would you be going to use ??

    5. After glassed the transom in, then put the bog down for the stringers and set them all down in it and lay the floor panels on top to make sure they sit level or would this be too much weight?

    Just useing a level across you should be able to see if everying is ok .

    6. How long from setting the stringer in bog do i wait till i can glass them in properly?

    Till the bog is completely hard so its sandable to nock off any lumps and bumps !! dont forget to cove all the corners as per the drawing i sent you written on there is also the glass layup to use !!

    Thanks
     
  7. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    Tell me what your transom is like !! extra board going all way across ?? what thickness will you end up with ?? on the inside the glass will need to wrap and go onto the hull sides at least 120mm so will need to be sanded and completely clean for the new glass to stick 110%
    can you post a picture of the transom please so can see what you got there.
    Asoon as i see what you got then i will give what glass to use and where extra layers could go etc etc !! Your transom need to be done before the stringers go in so the stringers will but ontop of the glass and when the stringers are glassed then the transom knees can be fitted and glassed in and finished ready for the floors go in and all that gets glass over as well !!:D:p
     
  8. stuee
    Joined: Aug 2012
    Posts: 25
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    Location: Australia

    stuee Junior Member

    Hi Tunnels,
    for No.4
    I have 450gsm course.

    i was gong to do

    --------------
    Boat Hull transom
    ---------------
    Resin
    -----------
    Board
    ----------
    resin
    -----------
    Board
    ------------
    Glass sheet ? how many layers?
    -------


    Cheers
     
  9. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    Hi Tunnels,
    for No.4
    I have 450gsm course.

    i was gong to do

    --------------
    Boat Hull transom
    ---------------
    Resin Just resin ?? not a good idea will run out !!
    -----------
    Board
    ----------
    resin Just resin ?? not a good idea will run out !!

    -----------
    Board
    ------------
    Glass sheet ? how many layers? i will give you the lay up in a moment but need a picture please if its poaaible
    -------


    Cheers
     
  10. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    Basics !! Resin alone is as useless as **** on a bull its not glue !!:eek:
    You need to put a layer of 450 csm well wetout with resin between the boards screw throught and gently squeeze till resin comes through the holes then the same for the next board

    for the cover layer you will need 2 layers of 450 csm as a minimum cover completely all over right out and onto the hull sides 100mm wrap round !! and let it go hard !!
    Do you have any woven roving glass ?? if so what weight is it ??
     
  11. stuee
    Joined: Aug 2012
    Posts: 25
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    Location: Australia

    stuee Junior Member

    Hi.
    I will get a photo on when i get home from work later today.

    Ok glass i asked about the glass between the boards.
    Also would you recommend i mix some talc in with all the glassing i do?

    Im not sure what "woven roving glass" is?

    cheers
     
  12. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    This is woven roving in close up naturally !!!:p need to be 800 gram at least !!!
     

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  13. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    ok woven glass compared to chopped strand has a lot more guts , its robust and very forgiving and because its usually 800 grams that gets used add a load of strength . in your case its perfect .

    Ok so you have all you transom in screwed and done cleaned up and has a skin of chopped strand all over side to side and onto the hull sides and hull bottom , now for the finishing touchs

    Ix 450 csm
    1 x woven roving
    1 x 45 csm rolled nicely and smooth with no bumps and lumps any where!!

    These 3 layers can all go on one after the other and completely all over in one piece with no joins any where . right to the outside and out onto the hull sides and every where else as well like down onto the hull bottom at least 120 mm or more

    when its all hard and lightly sanded The hull stringers need to be checked again and trimmed accordingly for a good fit remember always timber going in under the floor needs to be 2 coated with resin and special attention to end grain . !!
     
  14. stuee
    Joined: Aug 2012
    Posts: 25
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    Location: Australia

    stuee Junior Member

    Hey all.
    Just a about mixing ratio for the resin for sealing.
    I want to seal the transom before i glass them in properly later today but cant work out the best mix and if i need to give it 1,2,or 3 coats?

    Hopefully Tunnels is awake and answer asap so i cand get onto it soon.

    Cheers

    Stuee
     

  15. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    Yip im awake !! China is about 2 hours behind you !!:eek:

    Just 2 generous coats that will soak and seal use a 450 csm between the transom and the boards !!, screw the boards till resin squeezes out the bleed holes but dont over do it and try to squeeze every last drop . resin is best to have a little thickness so it will cure better and properly . when its screwed get a brush and mop up and spread out and runs and drops every where .
    Pictures ??
     
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