1962 Glasspar Seafair Sedan project

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by irishglasspar, Jun 13, 2016.

  1. irishglasspar
    Joined: Jun 2016
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    Location: California

    irishglasspar New Member

    I just picked this boat up a couple of weeks ago. I am new to the boat restoration. I have read a lot about these particular boats because I have wanted one for some time now. As I began to clean up the boat and started to really check it out I found the transom to be in bad shape (not too surprised). The floor is very solid so for now I am assuming the stringers are fiberglass due to the fact it's a 1962 with an I/O. The vin is 17XA2048. The wiring is also in need of updating as its a rats nest, I was able to turn it over before I pulled out the motor and out drive to begin the process of replacing the transom.
    I have a ton of questions already. One is should I open the floor to put in a bilge pump area between the floor and the hull or leave it sealed? Two I noticed when I removed the motor and outdrive that they used a 1/2 spacer on the gimbal housing to get it to fit. So should I build my transom 1/2 thicker in the center to better fit my gimbal housing? Three is it better to go with an auto style fuse block or a toggle style fuse system when I rewire the boat? Four how long can I leave the wood exposed after sanding before I apply new varnish. Five what is a good epoxy besides the west system. There has to be a somewhat cheaper system that is just as good. I am considering using the whale supersub 12V bilgepumps. one under the cabin and one under the motor.
    I have set up a photobucket account to keep up with my project.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  2. BrettinVA
    Joined: Nov 2016
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    BrettinVA Junior Member

    I restored a 1973 Glasspar Avalon a few years back and it had a unique stringer design but did use wood. I'm not sure if I would try to make up the difference on the transom to gimbal housing. It may work out better to do just what they did so everything will measure out exactly the same and align right. There are some alternatives to West but I don't know anything about them. One is from Smooth-on and another is Raka and Fasco. I used a simple switch type fuse panel I bought from wholesale marine - it doesn't hurt to have one that's weatherproof if it's going to be exposed.
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    West System is the epoxy industry leader, with System Three a close second. Both of these formulators charge health fees for their products. RAKA, Bateau.com, B&B's mix are all cheaper, as well as several others, in the discount epoxy side of the industry and you'd be advised, you select one of these, instead of the major brands. The physical properties are all within a few percent of each other, so no loses just cheaper, some by as much as 2/3's. If you buy more than a few gallons per purchase, you'll get a price break and I'm paying about $45 a gallon, but most at retail will pay about $60 a gallon, for these discount epoxies. Considering both West and System Three charge over $100 a gallon, a big savings.

    The trick with handling what's below the sole (floor) is to provide good drainage. Ideally, the limber and drain holes should permit any accumulated moisture, to run aft to a well where a pump is located or to a transom drain, where it can simply run out of the boat, once you've parked it on the trailer. Don't just seal these areas up, which is what most manufacturers did and why there's problems later.

    Varnishing wood is covered in many places, books online sites, etc., you'd be best advised to have a look as most of the prep is the same.

    Automotive style fuses are commonly aluminum or lightly plated mild steel. Both of these will corrode in time in a marine environment. The same is true of automotive fuse blocks. Real marine fuse blocks will have brass or bronze contacts, stainless attachments, etc., so these hold up much better. The fuse type doesn't matter so much, so long as they are made to resist moisture and installed to prevent corrosion.
  4. Ike
    Joined: Apr 2006
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    Location: Washington

    Ike Senior Member

    I restored a 1972 Sea Ray about 8 years ago. http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/SeaRay190.html What Brettin said is good advice. Restor it the way it was built but using modern materials. With better materials the boat will last for a long long time.

    As far as electrical goes, I used a UL marine rated fuse block with ATO or ATC fuses. The ATC are closed and can be use in engine compartments, fuel tank compartments etc. The ATO cn be used elsewhere. Don't scrimp on electrical. it will last far longer and be far safer than using cheap electrical parts. PAR's advice is good.

    I used system three epoxy resin and it works really well. It's not cheap by anyone's standard but it is easy to use and works well. Also I used the best marine plywood I could find, Again, expensive but it will last the life of the boat (probably longer than me)
  5. missinginaction
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    missinginaction Senior Member

    You won't go wrong with the advice given already. I've used System Three but based on many threads here believe that the less expensive resins are going to perform equally well. I just got used to System Three and also like the fact that it has almost no odor as compared to other resin I've used in the past.
    I'm an amateur like you and have found that a 2/1 ratio is much easier to use then a 5/1. Especially when mixing smaller quantities I can be more accurate with a 2/1 mix. I see that the Bateau is a 2/1 epoxy.

    Whether you go 2/1 or 5/1 once you settle on a ratio stick with it. You'll minimize confusion that way.
  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I've tested all of the discount epoxy brands and they all are right within a few percentage points of each other in physical qualities, so . . .
    DogCavalry likes this.

  7. endarve
    Joined: Jan 2017
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    endarve Junior Member

    The Seafair had a one piece fiberglass stringer system and was bonded to the hull. Theiy were hollow, wider at the base and drained aft. In effect a double bottom. The ply floor was bonded without mechanical fasteners to the tops of the stringers. It comes loose and bangs the top of the stringers. Sometimes on old classic fg boats they used very thin laminations, like one layer of 1.5 oz mat over wood) and it gets compromised from years of oil, gas exposure or whatever. It happens to some and not to others, I've seen it both ways on vintage 50s/60s hulls and there is no way to tell without a visual inspection. Visuals show white fibers lacking resin and will peel or flex. Mfgs used a lot of chopped strand mat back in those days. I would cut a small inspection hatch to see whats going on. Cut it to fit one of those round plastic hatches for future.
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