1959 fiberglass boat

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by boat3307, Jun 2, 2016.

  1. boat3307
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: dayton ohio

    boat3307 New Member

    Hello all, I am new to boat design so bare with me. I have just received this 1959 fiberglass boat that was my grandfather's. I will be using it 1-2 times per month on local freshwater. I want to paint the entire outside of the boat and need to know where to begin. I have already cleaned the outside thoroughly. I want to paint it all white but do not know what type/ brand paint to use, steps , methods etc. It has never been painted before. Any help is greatly appreciated.
     
  2. BobBill
    Joined: Oct 2009
    Posts: 823
    Likes: 19, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 157
    Location: Minnesotan wakes up daily, in SE MN, a good start,

    BobBill Senior Member

    Sand the cleaned surface, say with a decent orbiting variable speed sander, keeping it moving to avoid gouges...

    Paint: Could use a good house paint (not sure if water base or oil) or a deck paint from "ipaint" like Mega gloss, lwhich I have used. It is decent. Remember, the hull will be subject to the slings and arrows of use and after a bit, acceptable to most people.

    The hull is likely solid glass and, assuming hull is dry most of the time on a trailer, the paint choice should not be difficult.

    In any case, I would roll (foam roller) on paint in small areas, say 2 square feet and then tip smooth with decent dry brush over surface into previous wet paint to limit "curtains" and create smoother surface.

    I use the ipaint Mega brand and thin with naptha to give smooth, more or less mark-free finish.

    Work fast; do not go back to past section to fix, sanding and wiping between coats will do that...

    How you separate areas is up to you, but maybe best to do in length sections, say bottom and transom, a side and deck, if any, so blending is not so obvious.

    Remember that the paint will magnify flaws, though the lighter hue will help make it look better.

    Hope the above helps
     
  3. boat3307
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: dayton ohio

    boat3307 New Member

    thanks bobbill

    a few more questions

    1) after sanding, should i use a primer on the fiberglass before putting on my first coat of paint. if so what do you recommend

    2) does the paint you mentioned adhere to fiberglass well and will it peel off after being in the water/getting wet

    3) do i need to put a finish or something over the paint once i am done

    4) how many coats of paint do you recommend

    Thank you for your help thus far. i have done alot of reading on the net over the last week and was more confused than ever about these processes than when i began.
     
  4. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,133
    Likes: 481, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Welcome to the forum.

    There are several previous threads about painting, paint types and most importantly of all surface prep, before paint. An hour of reading can reveal a lot for you.

    A good paint job is 95% prep and 5% actual paintbrush in hand time, so getting the prep right is the ticket. I always recommend a good primer over previously unpainted surfaces. Primers serve a few different functions, but mainly to tie the substrate with the finish. This means a primer and a top coat after.

    Different paint types require different application tips. Typical acrylic (latex) house paints will need just a couple of top coats, after primer. This is the cheapest way, but also the least durable. Alkyd (oil) based "porch and deck enamels" tend to be slightly tougher, but also require solvent clean up, though at a similar price point as the acrylics.

    After these two basic paints, things can change. There's a host of different paints, from modified alkyds and acrylics to polyurethanes and LPU's to choose from. As the quality of the paint goes up, so does cost, application difficulty and skill levels. Hell, you could even gelcoat the boat again, which is how the manufacture did it, though I've never seen a novice do a whole new gelcoat job and have it come out very well, it certainly is possible after some research. The best paint jobs are the two part, two pack LPU jobs, which are sprayed, require several different cans of goo and environmentally controlled condisions. Some of the high end stuff in the category are $300+ per gallon, plus reducers, wetting agents, hardeners, etc. Conversely, you can stop by the local Ace Hardware store and pick up a gallon of paint for $20 on sale and have fun for the rest of the afternoon, under a shade tree.

    Read up, do some research and see what you're willing to do.
     
  5. kerosene
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 1,113
    Likes: 99, Points: 48, Legacy Rep: 358
    Location: finland

    kerosene Senior Member

    if you have a compressor I would use a paint gun (whatever you call them in English).
    I have near zero painting experience but didn't find using epoxy primer and 2 part urethane paint that difficult. yes you use paint and hardener and quite nasty solvents but its not complicated if you pay attention and work a bit organized.
    The paints I used are from a local automotive/hardware chain that is a step up from harbor freight but generally cheap stuff. The primer is way stronger than cheap paints - can't yet comment on the durability of their PU top coat.
     

  6. BobBill
    Joined: Oct 2009
    Posts: 823
    Likes: 19, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 157
    Location: Minnesotan wakes up daily, in SE MN, a good start,

    BobBill Senior Member

    Yes, welcome. Pardon my faux pas.

    Par, is a wealth of knowledge and helpful, as are some others here.

    I can only suggest what I have been doing with my hulls.

    I use the ipaint stuff, sans primer and it stick just fine. I was going to use house paint, but what I bought was water based and I decided thinning it was too complicated, so stuck with what I had from past year.

    Yes, 95% prep...

    I have been doing 3 coats. Seems to work and easier. I have thought about using an auto clearcoat and wax, for shine, but seems to be overkill to me...I refinished 76 hull (blue) and 83 hulls (red) and in service, seem just fine, to me. I have closer, in process, pics on other computer, but I think you will get idea. I am not racing, just sailing.

    BTW, I did not work on topsides, only hull bottoms.

    As to spraying. Works wonders, if you have the place to work etc. I do not, so I do the roll and tip application. Which ever you desire.
     

    Attached Files:

Loading...
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.