1948 Roedde Sloop Re-Fit Questions

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Elusive, Feb 4, 2011.

  1. Elusive
    Joined: Feb 2011
    Posts: 1
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    Location: Vancouver, B.C

    Elusive New Member

    Hi there, I am in the early stages of a refit on my 1948 wooden sloop Elusive and although I have participated in a some major re-fits I have never been the person responsible for making all the decisions, and it has never been my boat that I'm working and so I am hoping I may find some of the answers I need here.

    Boat Particuliars:
    Built 1948
    Designer- Rhodes
    Builder- Halliday ( Stevston, British Columbia)
    LOA: 34'
    Beam: 8'
    Draft: 5'5"
    Hull: 1/6 Yellow Cedar planks (Carvel), on 1/3 White Oak frames. 3 quater Keel.
    Air Draft: 47'
    Engine- Atomic 4
    Weight: approx 10 ton

    The boat is on blocks in a nice dry shed, so no worries on this front, she has been out of the water for 7 monthes and in the shed now for 2.

    My first round of questions revolve around the HULL.
    The hull is in good shape but because the fellow I bought her off of deemed it aceptable to use sika-flex for the seems I have had to pull all of the seems below the water line.

    Q: For my seams- how big a gap is too much? Some of the gaps are quite large, ie its not carvel any more, you can see clear through on some, there had been backing on the bulkhead to keep things right (cheap patch job by old owner). I'll never get these boards tight again so is splining these seams the way to go? It has been suggested that I pop one plank and then replace to make up some of this gap.

    Q- CauLking and Paint- My question here revolves around timing. Can I do this at anytime or do I wait until just before re launch and make it one of the last things? I have had to remove all caulking below the water line and will be replacing with red lead, the top side putty looks 90% good to me...can I leave the top side and just do a few touch ups where needed?

    Other projects that I am working on for this re-fit are a rebuild of the Atomic-4 engine, replacing 10 frames, new keelson and mast step, new canvas on the the top sides, and never ending bright work.

    I am sure that I will post more questions and I thank you if can give me advice on the ones that I asked above. If I can figure out how to post some pictures I will do that too.

    Cheers, Danny

    Attached Files:

  2. michael pierzga
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    Location: spain

    michael pierzga Senior Member

    Nice looking boat.

    Its worth investing in a first class marine survey performed by a wooden boat specialist. Many times they can recommend the best and cheapest way to perform a refit and most important they may spot issues that are not apparent. Has the sheer sagged...hogged? No use building the hog in permanently.

    Also worthwhile to study up on "Spline seamed " planking . Your boat may be a candidate due to age and seam deterioration.
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    There doesn't appear to be any hog, though the photos aren't at the best angle to see this. When was her last comprehensive survey? If more then a few years since, she needs another, if for no other reason then to get a good handle on what and how things should be repaired.

    Spines wouldn't be the wisest choice, particularly on a boat that will live wet. You mention that the seams look good above the LWL. How do you know this? Considering the other tasks that need to be done, the planking isn't "up to bat" yet.

    In short, the frames, keelson and mast step should be repaired first. Then the planking fasteners checked, tightened or replaced, then the planks can be caulked. It would be best to remove all the caulk (topside planks too) reef out the seams, prep, caulk moderately tight considering her moisture content (which is why the seams are so big), then compound and smooth.

    There's a specific set of procedures and routine that things should be done in, to preserve the boat's shape and restore hull integrity. If you do these things out of order or skip a step, you'll have a leaky boat, possably compromised in strength too.

    Structural repairs come first, including those on the deck. When the internal structure is solid, the external structure is firmed up, which means the planking fasteners and well caulked seams (caulking isn't a job for a novice). Once the boat is caulked tight, she becomes a solid, nearly monocoque hull shell. At this point you can move to finishing, like the deck canvas and hull varnish/painting.

    You'd be best advised to hire a boat carpenter to look her over and suggest a plan of action that will not distress the boat's current condition.
  4. Skean dhu
    Joined: Mar 2011
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    Location: Gabriola

    Skean dhu New Member

    New member here - I hope I'm not breaching etiquette by veering slightly off-topic.

    I have the opportunity to acquire and restore a 1947 Roedde sloop, and am looking for any design and construction information available. Have you (Danny) found plans etc, and can you share them with me or tell me where I can otherwise find them?

    Can anyone else help me with this? Does anyone have any anecdotal information about the Roedde sloops?

    I believe I've set up my membership account so that you can access and reply to me via my email address, if this conversation is better conducted outside this forum.

    Many thanks - Ted

  5. ALEBO83
    Joined: Jun 2011
    Posts: 1
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    Location: Genoa

    ALEBO83 New Member

    Good afternoon

    I'm Alessio from Genova (ITALY), sorry for intrusion. I need help to search an wooden sailing yacht to be restored like yawl, schooner or ketch (about 20-24 meters) anywhere in the world. Do you know someone that can help me?

    Thanks a lot...


    Alessio Borghesi
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