Building a canoe: S2-glass vs kevlar vs carbon

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by ahender, Nov 1, 2019.

  1. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    Mixing fibers doesn’t typically help in this type of build. Sometimes Kevlar is used for its abrasion or puncture resistance, but that’s about the only benefit it will add when used with other fibers.

    If you mix fiber types the fiber with the least elongation takes the entire load until it fails, the other fibers are just along for the ride up to that point. The next fiber is now required to handle the entire load itself, and typically fails right away.

    So with multiple fibers you can easily end up with a much heavier, but ultimately weaker laminate.
     
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  2. ahender
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    ahender Senior Member

    Thank you Ondarvr. This is great information.
     
  3. BlueBell
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    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    Skin on Frame (SOF) is very lightweight and durable.
     
  4. ahender
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    ahender Senior Member

    Thanks for your comment BlueBell.
     
  5. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    excellent post
     
  6. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    I agree, stick with one material, epoxy-fiber and lay-up as per design needs/loads.
    Or vinylester, but you just can't beat all the positive characteristics of epoxy in my opinion.
     
  7. ahender
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    ahender Senior Member

    Thanks again for your feedback.
     
  8. PA Explorer
    Joined: Aug 2025
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    PA Explorer New Member

    I am looking to build a smaller river/creek running canoe that is under 35lbs but robust enough to take on gravel bars, rock rub, and class II water. What design are you using?
     
  9. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    Post is like 5.5 years old. Not gonna get much reply.
     
  10. Boat Design Net Moderator
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    Boat Design Net Moderator Moderator

    PA Explorer -- welcome to the forum. It's possible ahender will see your reply (if so, it would be great to hear how the project turned out too), but given the age, you might want to create a new thread in design forum.
     
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  11. ahender
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    ahender Senior Member

    A friend had a Mohawk 12’ whitewater boat that was at the end of its life. That is what I used as the first step.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2025
  12. ahender
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    ahender Senior Member

    Well, a 25 year boat project has come to an end. The plan was to vacuum bag 2 layers hand lay up, then do a core, then 2 more layers. I was using a tropical hardener so figured I had plenty of time. Rather dumbfounded how long it took to glass it, add peel ply, then bleeder material. The glass started bubbling which was not expected. This had taken hours up to this point. Everything was precut but still really slow. Rushed putting the bag on, and yes, zero vacuum. At this point, completely dejected, I took it out in the sun and baked it for about an hour under black plastic. I know, a big no no. About two hours later, I decided to break the mold. It would not budge. About an hour of using every tool I had, still could not break it open. Surprisingly, the fiberglass was already hard so I went after it from the inside with a pry bar, then vice grips. Yep, I yanked and pulled until it finally came loose and the mold fell apart. Upon close inspection, it looks rather sad. But I think it will not sink and plan to add a core and one more layer of glass. I know two is required, but all this craft has to do is be as light as possible and float. Also plan to add modified swim noodles on each side for stability. I’m 70 and no way I can paddle a canoe this narrow. When I was 45, yes. Below is a picture. The black markings are part of the mold seam. The hull is intact. No major issues other than cosmetic. Thanks to all for the advise over the last few years. It has been a journey. Alan
     

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