Replacing rubbing strakes grp yacht

Discussion in 'Sailboats' started by Hushinish, Jul 28, 2003.

  1. Hushinish
    Joined: Jul 2003
    Posts: 5
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    Location: Ilkley England

    Hushinish Junior Member

    I have a 24ft Robert Tucker designed Hawksbill 24. Never launched, it was released from the factory as a kit in 1986, I am it's new owner, the previous owner/assembler made a muck of a few items. One being the rubbing strakes. I have removed his attempts, but am baffled, here is the problem.

    With the R/S removed, we have a hull deck joint formed by a the deck moulding being turned vertically 22" and bolted through to the hull with 6mm ss nuts and bolts 1/2" below line of hull and deck moulding, therefore a line of 10mm hex heads and nuts are studded along where the new rubbing strake is to be fitted.

    What is the normal section of wood used in this situation, I envisage a sort of inverted hocky stick shape, but to clear all the bolts The groove will have to be say 3/8 wider than the thickness of the flange of grp which is about 1/4, that might be messy.

    Obvious answer is 2 part rs and capping, but I don't like the prospect of a joint.

    What would you do
     
  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    An easier way is to make a hole in the back where each bolt head is. Are you screwing the rail on?
     
  3. Hushinish
    Joined: Jul 2003
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    Location: Ilkley England

    Hushinish Junior Member

    I think I would need something at the back of the upstand formed by hull/deck joint to screw into, bolts might make for a more secure job, countersunk and plugged with a wood pellet.

    Do rubbing strales normally have this and a seperate capping?
     

  4. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    It is easier to make it in two pieces. If you double the thickness of the wood, it gets four to six times stiffer. A structural adhesive caulk, like 5200 by 3M, will hold the rubbing strake even if the screws come loose. The only drawback is that it is very difficult to remove for repairs. I think the most convenient way is to have one piece the thickness of the deck/hull lip and a second one over both. I usually add a stainless molding over for protection.
     
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